Has anyone had to warranty their Profile cranks? Mine are getting pretty bent and I’d like to warranty them and upgrade to the Dirt Jumper cranks while I’m at it. Does the bike shop who ordered them for me send them back or do I send them in myself? Also, how bent do they have to be? Mine are bent enough to see and feel when riding.
I haven’t bent my profiles yet, and I doubt I ever will. You must be doing some pretty huge drops on them! Do you have your warranty registration card? If not I’d say it would be worth talking to the Bike shop where you ordered them from, because they probably have it. It might help if you can find your receipt as proof of purchase. I was supposed to include the dealers signature on my warranty registration but I was in too much of a hurry to send it before ten days after the original purchase ran out, so I hope my warranty is valid. Chris Reeder broke one of his cranks and he seemed to have no trouble obtaining a replacement set of dirt jumpers.
Someone might be able to inform you if you write to (or phone)
Profile racing Inc.
5290 95th Street North St. Petersburg, Florida USA 33708
TEL: 727/391-7370 FAX: 727/398-2153
By the way, could you please send me some MUni Militia stickers Mojoe? I PMed you last week, I’ll send you an email with my address if you still have some spare.
John (the MAN Childs just BROKE a Profile crank today. That is because he is MORE POWERFUL than a Profile crank. Pictures, perhaps in another thread, of the very proud Mr. Childs and his victim will be following. His hopes are that the crank will be replaced free of charge.
That delpends on what you’re using them for. I used the Black Widow Euro cranks on my Pashely MUni back in the old days of muni (1999 or so). I used the 170’s and 160’s. They worked well for for me at the time. I wasn’t doing lots of jumps and drops back then. I was just doing XC riding on a skinny 2.1" MTB tire. Muni was different way back then.
If you’re just doing XC riding or road riding, and you’re not a clydesdale rider, they should be fine. They’re not going to be as stiff or as strong as the Kooka cranks. Good quality tandem or MTB cranks will be stronger and stiffer. But the Black Widow cranks will look better. I’m thinking of using 150 mm Black Widow cranks on my new Coker and I still have my old 160 and 170 Black Widow cranks which may find use on the Coker too.
I talked to Shane from Profile this morning. He said just send them back with the warranty card or receipt, plus $10 to cover shipping. I asked about upgrading to Dirt Jumpers and he said I cannot upgrade, but I could change to crome or change crank length if I put a note in the box to do so.
I’m mailing mine out today. They answered my email fast, so expect them to return the new ones quickly. I hope.
The Kooka’s are the strongest aluminum alloy cranks that you can get. They’re stout. I don’t know what the Q-factor is on the Kooka cranks, but it’s going to be more than the Black Widow cranks.
If you want the low Q-factor then you can try the Black Widows. They’re not wimpy cranks, but they’re also not the strongest or the stiffest. They’re definately better than Lascos. The Black Widows are also available in more crank lengths than the Kooka’s.
Well… I received my new Profile cranks yesterday. I sent them my 170mm cranks and requested the new ones be 145’s, because I wanted to try shorter cranks on the muni to speed it up a bit. Guess what?? They sent me 175mm cranks; longer than what I sent them in the first place. I amd not going to use 175 cranks on anything, so now I have to call them up and ship the damn thing s back to Profile again.
This really sucks, as the weather is nice here the rest of the week and I’m jonesing for a little trail riding. Guess I’ll take out the 29er instead. Or just put on the 175’s and bend them suckers up and then send them back to Profile.
I know you’re familiar with short cranks and how they speed things up and all, but do you really want to go that much shorter for muni?
I dropped down to 160’s and liked them for a while but I went back to 170’s. My riding was suffering. It’s weird how that little bit of length really affects things. The stuff I ride demands that extra leverage.
The Profile 145’s are great and a lot of fun but I have a feeling that over the long haul, for muni you’ll want something longer.
Then you’ll have to buy another set of cranks…and then they’ll need a wheel of their own…and then another frame…
That sucks Mojoe! I reckon they owe you some 145mm dirt jumpers for that. I was a bit annoyed that I got 170mm instead of 165mm like I asked for, but I agreed to it since Unicycle.com convinced me that 170mm are the best and 165s were out of stock. Moments after trying 170mm cranks I knew that they were not best for me.
Lately I have put my 170mm cranks back on just to see if that extra leverage theory works. I don’t believe in it. I think maybe it’s to do with me having bad technique with long cranks, because quite often I fall off going up hills which I can get up with short cranks (145mm). I also fall off going downhills sometimes where I wouldn’t with short cranks, because of the pedal scrapes associated with longer cranks. I find that the short cranks give extra momentum, which for me is more useful in climbing than leverage. Unless you go down mega-steep hills and need the leverage to keep in control, I think 145s with 24x3" rule. I don’t think Mojoe lives in a steep enough place to need 175mm cranks.
I agree that 175 is too long for a 24 x 3. But the 25mm change from 170 to 145 is a huge difference no matter the wheel size. I wasn’t implying that Mojoe doesn’t know that.
Most of the trails I ride need lots of negotiating, many starts and stops, quick turns, roots, rocks with real short but steep ups and short but steep downs. I’m 6’ tall and I do well with the 170’s. 145’s on the stuff I ride would make for a lousy day with lots of walking.
I’ve got 2 Profile wheelsets and 4 sets of Profile cranks, 145’s, 160’s, 170’s and some 175’s for my 26 x 3. I’ve got a few MUnis, so I can ride the cycle that fits the terrain.