Mine based on Corbin 4130 CroMo tube supplier (www.aircraftspruce.com) but with different diameters combination, bosses are from http://www.ceeway.com/Bosses.htm (ref 2280 for the boss and ref 2290 for the screw). It can be slightly ajusted in all directions and this helps a lot in case of UPD, avoiding damages 
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Didier
yeah, but how do you reach the pedals? 
my new handle:
I used a stem from a bike that I cut and put a slit in so i could use a seatpost clamp to hold a bike handlebar that I clamped my old frame from my 16" learner uni. It works pretty well considering it was free.
I just have to put grips on it, buy a brake, a cycle computer, and Iāll be done with my 29er
Here is my plan for a handle on my muni, Its only short but its length can be adjusted. It just slots onto the brake holder on the seat post.
I just need to find some handle bar sized steel tubing (22mm?) and some tubing with an inner diameter of 22mm and ext diameter of 25.4
The rest can be bought off the shelf (clamp, bar ends, grips)
1 wheeled grape- that is a nice simple design. I am making a Handlebar for my 24" guni at the moment and have come up with something pretty much the same as yours- with two small exceptions. Firstly mine will not be length adjustable. I want it to be as light as possible and for me than means cutting down on the amount of tubing i use. Secondly, because the KH rail adapter sits so snugly underneath the seat base (and i want to retain my ability to use the KH front bumper) my main tube that slots over the brake mounting tube will have a dog leg bend in it. It will bend down and out of the way of the Kh handle- giving me enough room to get my hand in there to use the regular handle properly. This means that while it is attached i will be able to use it OR the KH handle. Hopefully i will have something workable by mid next week and i will post it in this thread.
good luck with it,
mark
I have one of those at home that I never used. I hadnāt considered an application like this, but it might work. It certainly is stout enough for this use. Iāll look at it tonight and see if itās worth cutting off the rack to make it usable.
For my use, Iām looking at single or double grips so I can ride on doubel track, so all I need is a Reeder style handle 4-6" in front of the KH grab handle.
Nice idea. Are the bottom set on the front just there as bash guards, or do you actually have some way of gripping them?
I was going to ask the same thing. When I had high and low grips I had the high ones close together and the low grips further apart.
Having multiple handholds makes it nice to figure out what really works for you.
Thanks, yeah, theyāre bash guards. It is nice to have the rear set and the foward set. I use the rear ones when climbing gets steepish, and the very rear one like a stock handle for steepisher climbing, mounting, and such.
You should try flipping your bash guard grips back toward you as sort of a bull-horn drop bar style and see if you like it. that looks like a great setup for experimenting with. Great flexibility but maybe a bit heavy for a permanent design though.
Iāve moved things around and tried lots of different setups including the bottom turned rear like you said, it is good to try lots of ways and itās good to have options on long rides when you just get restless and want to move around. I thought with all the bar ends it might be a little heavy also, but I donāt think itās to bad. Itās worth the weight to have the guards to protect my grips, and I really donāt think itās all that heavy.
I finally got around to experimenting with some handlebar ideas for my 24" Guni. Just for starters i am using an old 20" frame that slides over my brake mount on my rail adapter and is held there with a quick release. I left the fork legs at their full length until i have done a few big rides on it to see how much of them i want to leave. The only thing that i think i might like to change is the angle of the fork legs. At the moment they shoot off straight from the brake mount, and i get the feeling that i will prefer them to be flatter- which means bending them somehow.
Actually, thats a good question to ask- what would be the best way of bending the legs of an old unicycle frame without having the metal crack or break. My initial thoughts was to just stick the legs in a vice and show the crown some love with a lump hammer, but that might be too crude- any thoughts?
Mark
If you heat it, you can probably bend it a little, but not much. Best option would be to cut & weld.
Mark to bend those bars (forks) If I had to do it i would try my trusty steel bending tree.The tree has some heavy limbs close and parallel and I would wedge the forks in there and put a heavy duty extension bar or pipe inside or outside the old steering stem and and see what sort of damage you can do.Doing it by hand you should be able to feel if the steel wants to bend,if it wants to fold you should be able to stop before the damage is done.Just a thought.
john
I would fill the tubes with water and freeze it as hard as possible. Having ice in the tubes should help prevent the tubes from buckling when you try to bend them.
Good luck with the bending.
Any ideas on building some handlebars? All the options on UDC are pretty expensive for me considering how little I ride my 36er. But when I do I really find myself wanting bars.
I like unijuulās idea of two stems and bar ends, but I was thinking of trying to make a handle that could attach to the brake extension of my rail adapter. So instead of having one stem attach to the seatpost, it would attach under the seat. This way the bars would be a few inches farther forward. The only problem I can see is trying to attach the stem to the brake post extension because there is so little room between the seat base and the brake post.
Can anyone think of a way to make this attachment work?
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(It extends out ever further!)
Thatās so cool. But I would be worried about braking the iPod in a upd.
