post your homemade handlebars here!

[munirocks]

Sounds pretty cool! Maybe one could even make a cf v-frame somehow? The tubes would probably have to be a little wider than the Nimbus ones, and it would get a little more expensive. The crowns would be difficult to do too, I guess.

[rvs]

This is my simple handlebar setup.
I put an old 20" unicycle frame on a KH rail adaptor.
Some handlebar tape and the frame is bent together.

[corbin]

Geoff! Those pictures are very helpful. I’m working on some new handlebar designs, and I may use some of those ideas. I’ll try to post info to here later.

corbin

[Probailer2]

@dangerdog

I wanted to make just the same bar, can you please send me some measurements (in cm) from this nice work?

[naturequack]

@corbin

Geoff! Those pictures are very helpful. I’m working on some new handlebar designs, and I may use some of those ideas. I’ll try to post info to here later.
corbin

Corbin, let me know if you need other detailed pictures or info on materials etc. Of course you can also ask Pete (unisk8r). He made them, after all, and would have more insight on how to build another similar set.

Geoff

[dangerdog]

@Probailer2

I wanted to make just the same bar, can you please send me some measurements (in cm) from this nice work?

Hope this helps.

Here is my original post.

Handlebar discussion - How to?

I just made a handlebar for my 36 after much research and analysis I came up with a sort of hybrid design using a bit of T7/coker/corbins homemades and saskatchewanian’s.I used electric arc welding and leftover bits of bike,total cost $0.It works fine but I’ll have to put in a few more rides to form an opinion on the merits or otherwise of the geometry chosen.Halfway through the first ride I stopped and removed the water bottle and holder as my legs were rubbing on it.I really liked having the b…

[Probailer2]

@dangerdog

Hope this helps.

Here is my original post.
Handlebar discussion - How to? - #25 by dangerdog

Thanks, these drawings will do just fine.
Just found all the right material I need, so will be welding in about 3 days.
Keep you guys posted

[mtnjeffe]

@unisk8r

Rick might still have some specs, but as I recall I set the seat & bar tubes 8" apart as measured at the top of the tire. That spec should now be 10". The handlebar positions can be adjusted accordingly, but you want the stem mount far enough in front.

Rim brake mounts should be attached on the rear legs. I tried it on the front for better looks, but the brake housings then hit your knees.

I am going to have Rick start on one after the first of the year. My plan is to have him use a fork steer tube as the “head tube” which would allow you to use different stems to adjust for riding position. With this in mind would you still suggest moving the fork leg seperation from 8 to 10 inches at the top of tire?

Also, is there an angle to the stem tube or does it follow the line of the fork legs extending the reach the taller the tube? Would you possibly use something closer to the head angle on a bike?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Spudman]

@rvs

This is my simple handlebar setup.
I put an old 20" unicycle frame on a KH rail adaptor.
Some handlebar tape and the frame is bent together.

Now that’s clever. I have a junk frame laying around here somewhere… this looks like it would be a good improvement over my current one.

[unijuul]

Two stems and two bar ends.

Very light and stiff.

[tomkarches]

@munirocks

So my T7 snapped today, and I don’t think I’ll be getting another one before Roger improves the design once more. I think he should at least put them on sale now because of all the major flaws they have. .

I have used both the T7 and the stock Coker handle on my new Big One.

I greatly prefer the Coker handle. I like that the bar ends are separately attached, allowing adjustment of the angle. Having upright bar ends makes a HUGE difference in being able to take weight out of the seat on longer rides. I’ts just more comfortable.

The double bar (pi bar) Coker design is very sturdy. I would always feel the T7 move when I mounted. No movement with the Coker bar.

A problem I see with the T7 is the twisting caused by only having a single attachment point back to the mounting bracket. I would guess that this is a major cause of breakage.

The double bar Coker design is superior to the single bar T7, IMHO. I don’t see why the T7 could use 2 bars, welded on either side of the seat bracket.

–tom

[Probailer2]

@unijuul

Two stems and two bar ends.

Very light and stiff.

Can I have a picture of your full setup( unicycle) with some specs?
Looks like a KH coker, but not sure

[unijuul]

@Probailer2

Can I have a picture of your full setup( unicycle) with some specs?
Looks like a KH coker, but not sure

It’s a 36" Nimbus

The handle was very good. But got stuck in the seatpost after one year. Because of the galling (oxide) between aluminium seatpost and the aluminium stem.

Spec:
Wheel build: Kovachi Wheels, John Kovachi, 4-cross pattern
Rim: Airfoil 36" Rim 1200grams
Tyre: Coker 36 * 2 1/4" 1960grams
Tube: Schwalbe 29er tube (AV 19), 40/60-622/635 (7.3 oz - 207.4 grams)
Spokes: 12ga (Diameter 2.667mm/ 0.105in)
Bearings: SKF 6203-2RSH, 17-mm ID, 40-mm OD
Cranks: Bicycle Euro Cotterless Steel Crank Arms 125mm, 550g
Pedals: Xpedo MX Force MGCR (408 grams)
Hub: UDC Superwide CrMo Cotterless, 125mm bearing spacing (center - center), 100mm flange spacing
Frame: Nimbus, Cr-mo
Colour: Blue
Seatpost: Kris Holm 25.4mm with Kris Holm Seat Post Bracket
Seatpost Clamp: Kris Holm Dual Bolt
Seat: Kris Holm Fusion Freeride 2007
Handle: Kris Holm and Custom Road Handle buildt by Kato Klevengen
Brake: Magura Hydraulic HS33 Silver
Computer: Sigma BC-500

[corbin]

I have a new handlebar I just made a few weeks ago. Blog posting:

Munibar: Mountain Unicycle Handlebar

single picture (more above):

New thread about it:

Munibar: The making of a Mountain Uni Handlebar

Howdy! I posted a very detailed posting on my blog about a new handlebar I made for my geared muni: Please see the link above for details, but I’ll also copy a few pictures below. The blog also has the sketchup file for you to download and play with the design in 3d. Overall, I like the design; it works well for steep hills. The drawback is that it is difficult to brake with, and I think I got finer grained control with the spooner and the plastic seat handle. [image] [image] [image] co…

[munirocks]

Alright, so I finally got around to recycling my broken T7. I just cut it off and stuck it into a seat post which I attached to a stem with seat post clamps. So far it seems to work alright. I may shorten it a little though. The angle could be steeper too, and maybe I’ll move the brake lever back to the handle bar.

[munirocks]

I replaced the T7 part with some aluminum adjustable parts:

[Probailer2]

@munirocks

I replaced the T7 part with some aluminum adjustable parts:

Thats a nice handlebar you got there, now spraypaint the silver bar black
I also like the plastic bottle fender, thats nice thinking of you.

[corbin]

@munirocks

I replaced the T7 part with some aluminum adjustable parts:

Cool! has the bike seat been working out for you?

corbin

[kerosian]

I imagine a bike seat would be quite nice with a handlebar to rest weight on.

[munirocks]

@Probailer2

Thats a nice handlebar you got there, now spraypaint the silver bar black
I also like the plastic bottle fender, thats nice thinking of you.

Thanks, maybe I’ll spray it some time. I think it’s okay in silver, though.
The plastic bottle fender was actually not my invention, I just saw Ducttape’s version and got inspired… But it really works well. I attached it to the frame with sticky velcro straps, so I can take it off when I don’t need it.

@corbin

Cool! has the bike seat been working out for you?

Yes, the setup works pretty well. It isn’t much more comfortable than the previous one, if at all. But it sure takes the stress off the more fragile areas… I think I need a longer seat post to make it even better. Moving the seat back a little more might be a good idea too. So I guess I’ll be experimenting with that.