That angle looks great - pretty close to what the angle of a GB4 handle is and I much prefer that over flat bars- that was one of my main gripes with the T7.
You are right, you probably won’t find yourself needing or wanting the full length of the frame.
Unijuuls set up there is pretty good.
I think you can fit a bar end on to that KH adapter break post and then work off the bar end if you really wanted to make a handle out of the brake post.
Also, you could try napalm’s idea.
Otherwise, the T7 was on sale a little while ago on UDC, that would be cheapest for you if buying a handle.
Impressive! What do you usually watch on the iPod screen while cycling?
Classic episodes of Ozzie & Harriet. 
Haha, no, I just listen to music. 
I have never done it but saw it recommended a few times in the frame building forums on mtbr.
OK, I may have shown a pic of this setup back in some old thread, when it was on my Coker. Now I use these bars on my KH29 Guni.
It’s made with a tandem bike stoker stem, a long “L” shaped stem holding a short piece of handlebar, and bar ends. It’s comfy.
I’ve still got to improve this because the brake is awkward , and I’d like to put a Ken Looi bell on there. Also, the riding position could be lower.
It looks close to the seat, and the angle of the bars looks rather downward to me. Also the two bars don’t seem to be at the same angle, is that on purpose?
I did say it’s a work in progress! 
The two bars are offset because the bar ends are small and I crunch my thumbs together otherwise. The angle works quite well for me, though I would like it a little farther forward.
Yes but I did not comment on the issues you mentioned that you are working on.
A common method of bending tubes without crimping is to fill them with sand. Same applies whether cold-setting or hot-setting.
Cheers,
Eoin
Steve
Nice handle. If you want it lower it would be easy to raise the boom part a bit and flip the quill stem upside down. That is what I did with a similar setup when i finally realized that lower is better. It might also make it easier to reach the brake handle from the handle grips.
On the bar I used this winter I swapped the grips so they faced out instead of in to give me room for the thumbs of my big mitts when it is -30˚. It worked really well and I think I am going to keep it that way on my MUni bar.
A couple good ideas, Eric. I may just try them upside-down and/or inside-out. Also mucking around with with an aerobar.
it was just made to test some measurements for a “right” handle but it works so well - and now I ride it for half a year and 2000km.
please excuse the dowdy finish - if I had thought to use it more than three days I would build it with more quality:o
its made from an broken KH 20" and its very stiff in combination with a carbon saddleplate - this one is made from Axel “akaestle”.
If do it once more I would use a 6mm bolt instead of 8mm in the front.
Nice work Hugo. I too have been modifying the KH lift handles with hole saws and endmills to cradle different custom unicycle handlebars. Not sure what type of plastic (HDPE??) it is made from, but with all its webbing up front, it is very strong - even when heavily bored out as you have done.
I just finished a batch of about eight “Black Cocks” that are more for MUNI than distance, but when you see the picture, I think you will see why it got that name. 
Brycer
Yes, please post pictures.
The advantage of my T-Bar: You can pull it out by removing just one screw. That makes it suitable for a mixed distance and Muni ride, perhaps with s geared hub on a 26" uni. And it is short enough to carry it in a backpack. You only need to be careful with the hole in the handle, it may be dangerous for the fingers.
You should make a plug.
“Spline-bar”
Just want to share my “spline-Bar” with All the creative minds on the forum, hoping to get some input and ideas.
I’m a Mechanical engineer, and have access to a manufacturing facility that allows me water-jet and lazer cutting, milling ,turning ,etc. So, there are no limitations there.
What I’m presenting is mostly a “jig” that would allow me to play around with different riding positions. Future versions will be optimized by functionality and weight.
Notice the concept includes adjustment on the angular position of the seat post, in a way that doesn’t affect the pedal to seat distance.
Wide range for aero bar position adjustment on the front section would allow me relative adjustment for weight balance.
I will report soon about the “riding” experience on it…
Erich
myaerobars.bmp (253 KB)
sick, man. maybe i should switch to mechanical engineering…
