Post a picture of your unicycle and Review it

Nice looking uni, orange and blue go together well.

Thanks raymanh. You don’t get a great deal of colour choice with KH. I loved the clear pedals with the blue anodised components but think they look a bit wishy washy now - I think the Uni would begreatly improved by bronze/gold Echo pedals.

Lets see your KH20 and review - I’m aiming to get a 20" trials uni next week and the KH20 double crown is topping my list so far.

Love these machines.

Custom Triton with fat 29 and skinny 32" wheels
Top to bottom:
Saddle: KH Fusion Freeride foam on a UDC Carbon Fibre base, fitted with T-nuts and custom handle mount.
Handle: Pieced together from a brake mount, KH seatpost, postclamp, back T from a T7, bar ends.
Clamp: Woodman quick release.
Frame: Custom titanium frame built by Triton. Used the design of the triple mount frame, added 20mm in height, lost the 24" Magura mounts and added disk mounts for MountainUni disk brake system.

29" wheel
Hub: Nimbus 48h ISIS hub
Cranks: Qu-Ax 145mm cranks
Pedals: Snafu pedals
Spokes: 32 Wheelsmith 14g with alloy nipples
Rim: Umma II 29x50mm 32h drilled
Tire: “frankenler” two WTB Prowler 29x2.1s sewn together = 29x3.2
Tube: generic 26" DH tube.

32" wheel
Hub: Nimbus 48h ISIS hub
Cranks: Qu-Ax 114mm cranks
Pedals: Magnesium “Jim Cielencki” Trail Mix with extra long pins
Spokes: 32 2-piece spokes made from regular short spokes joined by 12mm brass nipples to double threaded spoke sections. DT Champion 14g
Rim: 36" Nimbus SE rim drilled and “shrunk” to 700mm BSD
Tire: 2x generic 24x1.75" tires cut and spliced together
Tube: Generic 700C

Everything has accumulated over time. I don’t think I got more than two things in the same place. UDC,, Bedford Unicycles, various bike shops (special props to City Park Cycle and Bike Universe in Saskatoon and Speedway Cycles in Anchorage), online shops, Canadian tire, various trades and buys from a few forum members, and stuff I just found laying around.


In both configurations the unicycle is surprisingly light. 5.89 kg in 32" mode and 6.35 kg as a fat 29. The frame is the backbone of this unicycle and is awesome. Very stiff and fairly light.

This thing is hand welded and custom built. I was a bit worried about having such a wide crown so high up but it has not been a issue. I can feel it a bit when spinning away on small cranks with my legs almost strait but never when riding MUni. The only minor gripe I have is that you need to put the bearing caps back on exactly the way they came off since the bolt holders are welded on and if you put the wrong one on the wrong side it binds a bit.

Fat 29

As a fat 29 it is absolutely awesome on semi-harpack snow and loose gravel. Floats over mud and has surprisingly good road manners. I think that this is going to be a great XC machine come summer time and is going to be a lot of fun. I have had the wheel for over a year and it has held up amazingly well. I have banged the rim into the ground a few times and it is still perfectly true and round.

A fat 29 does put you pretty high and gives you a pretty tall gear so it is not ideal for really technical stuff and branches can get in the way. I started out with 165/137 cranks with the big tire this winter and it was the first time that 165s didn’t feel just that little bit too long. 137 is great for cruising around or smooth trails but not that good for off-road riding. Switched to 145s since I wasn’t riding in deep snow much and they are a nice in-between size.

I have been thinking about adding a reinforcing strip of fabric around the inside of the tire but don’t want to wreck the awesome feel it currently has.

There is an almost-clone to this thing in Germany or Russia somewhere…

32" wheel

This is something that I have been wanting to make since the rim got broken in a car accident before I could even build it into a wheel. I never expected it to turn out this good so didn’t do as good of a job on a few things as I should have.

In short this wheel just feels classy. I sort of feel I should be wearing a top hat and a coat with tails riding this thing. It is incredibly light, smooth, and responsive. It climbed incredibly well and did much better than anticipated on gravel and sliced through loose slush very well. The 1.75 tire at a fairly low 30 PSI seemed like it was enough tire to keep the ride nice and smooth both on the pavement and the gravel while staying really fast rolling and moderately light.

The 114s feel a bit long on this wheel. I am going to try some 100s and see how they feel. I had one spoke connection slip on my last ride leaving me with one loose spoke and a slightly off wheel. I am going to get some 16mm brass nipples to replace the 12mm ones used as connectors and re-build the wheel. I used really cheep 24" tires to make the tire and made a couple little mistakes splicing them together. I will keep riding it for now but will probably build up a much nicer road tire this summer.

I am also eventually going to build my geared hub into a 26" version of the rim I have on the 29 (but with 36h) which I think will be perfectly adequate to hold a 26x3.8" Larry tire or any “regular” MUni tire. All the wheels will be fitted with MountainUni disk brakes on SINZ cranks in the near future and I will be able to use that calliper mount on the frame.

I am looking forward to being able to change wheels without having to move the brake, and having a brake that I don’t need the tire to be deflated to get past the pads.

I am extremely happy about this unicycle. There is always something that needs tweaking but that is the nature of custom and hand-made equipment. Getting these things together how you want them is almost as fun as riding them. They are truly functional pieces of art.


love that 29er tire.

eric you have the most amazing rides!

Eric, you should put a schlumpf on one of them!

I am going to move my Schlumpf hub into a 26" wheel that be able to use a Larry tire in this frame but will mostly stay in a smaller frame. I am excited about trying out a Larry and do enjoy my Schlumpf!

EDIT: both the 29 and 32" rims have 32 spoke holes making them unschlumpfable

How is the 32 config’ compared to 36. Have you had any issues with it? I’ve noticed more and more are switching to 32h.

Does any one know the consensus when it comes to the suitability (ultimately strength) of 32h for trials?

I was thinking about building a lightweight 26" wheel that was wide enough for a 3.0 tire witha schlumpf hub. Have you found any lightweight wheels that are wide enough for Larry?

I think the 26" guni would be a great off-road/ tech XC machine.

My 29" wheel is still round and true. I have not had any issues with it. If I had an option for a 36h rim I would have gone for it. Compatibility with other equipment is more important to me than the very slight weight loss of 4 less spokes.

Where I think that 32h makes sense though is trials wheels, especially when using drillouts on double walled rims. The bridges on the inner walls of the rims are just too small and they brake. Using less spokes allows more room for those bridges resulting in a stronger rim.

Some people have used Larrys on 47mm rims and said it was OK. I am going to try a 50mm Umma II assuming Speedway gets back to me about that. I can’t remember weights but I thought that my 29" rim was about 200g lighter than the KH equivalent.

sacsk: is your 29er rim a single wall?

26" Freestyle

I found this old page and thought it was worth reviving , I have had my 26" freestyle for a couple of months i ordered it from UDC Aust and it arrived on time and in perfect cond I was surprised as I live on the other side of oz and delivery is userly haphazard the first thing I noticed was the excellent paint finish mine is black the only thing I was not raped in was the poker dote seat I have just replaced the cranks with 125s but have not taken it for a ride yet.I would recommend the freestyle for someone moving up from a cheap learner Uni but I am already looking at nimbus and kHs as I would like brakes . Rating 6/10. Ps the triton above is Uni porn

Hockey 24

Originally I bought a 24 to play in defense during hockey tournaments. The original setup is the picture of the whole unicycle, Impact gravity 24 inch, nimbus 2 48spoke wheelset, kenda tyre and Nimbus saddle.

I have changed parts since then to lower the inertia of the wheel to be less than an a 20" this allows faster starting, stopping and turning even though it is a large wheel.

I have changed.
Quax Eleven Saddle - I prefer the firmer base and thinner profile. I find it more comfortable and for some reason I find I am able to turn quicker on a thinner saddle??
Rim - Alien Deviant 24" Rim, much lighter than the nimbus 2 rim.
Tyre - Maxxis DTH 24", much lighter than the kenda
Hub - KH Spirit, lighter than the nimbus 48 spoke hub but only used because the wheelset is 36H

-where you bought it from
Frame is from hippo unicycles, original wheelset is from Australia.
New Saddle and Hub are from
Rim and Tyre from various online shops.

-how Much

My guess is the original setup cost about $300
The changed parts cost standard amount for spirit hub and quax eleven seat.
Rim about $94, tyre $35.

-Would you recommend it to Others
Definitely. It rides better than a 20" but takes up more space to block the goal. It does what is needed 100%.

Stock KH29 with an older muni handle. The new handles divide your fingers when you grab them and I didn’t like the feel of that.

It came with a Duro “Crux” 3.25" which has a 31" diameter. I tried it for several weeks and decided to throw on a Maxxis “Minion” DHR instead because it has a 30" diameter and that felt a little easier on my knees. This is also the tire I have on my 29" Nimbus “Oracle” and I love it.

I’m guessing all the factors added up to a tougher ride for my body. Upping my diameter from a 29" to a 31", riding on snow, and a new ride with a different Q factor. At least this is what I’m telling myself.

Now with the Minion, old handlebars, and some riding hours there is no more pain in my knees. I’ll try the Crux next winter and see if I have the same results.

And now the reveal…

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Q: Just how bad can a chinese unicycle be?

A: Very.

I wanted something cheap enough to leave outside at the shops.
I’m in a rural area, so there’s nothing 2nd hand on facegumbay.

After haggling, this cost me AU $35 delivered, new, from fleabay.

This is the 24" big brother of the green-and-yellow tired one.

The seat is reasonably built, but feels painfully small.

The seat post (22.2mm x 200mm) has no adjusting slots, but it is offset and reversible.

The seat post clamp QR bolt is made of cheese. Colby, I think. I bent it long before I got it tight enough to hold my weight.

The left crank is 127mm, the right crank is 125mm.

Both cranks were bent on arrival, but soft enough to bend back using a bench vise and a large spanner.

The welds look ok-ish.

Total weight 4.6kg.

It will do what I want at a price I really don’t care about, but I can’t say I recommend it.

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My setup:
Saddle: UDC cf base, in the picture it still has the rare sinco cover and regular Impact Foam, I now have a KH street 2011? foam cover and handle, which surprisingly, I don’t find too thick, I can still grab it comfortably for all my tricks.
Seatpost: KH. pretty good, lasts a long time. Note I installed it backwards, to get that nose down saddle stance that makes flips faster and protects private parts.
Seatclamp: Impact single bolt. It clamps.
Frame: Impact Gravity, first generation, with the paint stripped of in a rough look (too lazy to polish). I very occasionally wish for a square crown, but not hitting knees is good too.
Hub: Impact, with custom paintjob. Very ok, I guess, small enough flanges to keep them away from hitting stuff while grinding, big enough to not have to remove my bearings to change a spoke.
Rim: Try all, custom (read shitty) paintjob.
Tire: Try all, (old one) slick. I like slicks, they roll so nice and smooth, wouldn’t want to change it out.
Cranks: 125mm Moments, some speed holes drilled. My favourite flatland/street crank ever. Enough space for most rolls even witout rollo disk, never hitting my ankle.
Pedals: “little girl pedal” threw them on because they were yellow the rim was yellow, and I had them lying around, with all intentions of getting different ones later, but I kinda like them now.

Didn’t have a pic, so here is a screenshot of me falling of it while trying a late 180flip.


What do you have sleeved over your seat post? Is it to increase strength, or just to prevent the post from falling down into the frame?

If you haven’t already I would recommend cutting off the crimped bottom bit of the seatpost, then ramming a length of dowel up there. It doesn’t have to go all the way, just past where you clamp. I eventually came up with this modification after replacing my seatpost a few times on my first cheep unicycle. My seatpost would crimp right at the clamp, or a bit above, then bend. The dowel fixed it.


Your picture didn’t load. I always like seeing pictures when people add lightness to their Moment cranks :slight_smile:

Sounds like a nice unicycle.

It’s a PVC sleeve just to stop it sliding down too far, next time I have the welder out I might do something more permanent.

Good tip about reinforcing the bottom of the seat post! I just checked the wall thickness, it’s only 1.6mm.

Here’s my Freestyle

My Freestyle Uni

Wheel (rim, hub, spokes): steel with chrome, square taper, from BicoPlus (the bicycle company where the founder of Qu-Ax worked before). Bought in the late 90’s, gone through a lot of abuse, trued only twice and still in perfect shape.
Frame: Ajata Freestyle Longneck 400mm steel with chrome. Really nice freestyle frame, good stand for the foot on the crown
Saddle: Qu-Ax Trail/Street. Nice firm saddle for freestyle. Good to grab with my small hands, no problems even after hours of training.
Tire: Kenda Karrumba. max 7 bar (100 psi) nearly no rolling resistance at max pressure. Does not wear as fast as those standard Qu-Ax tires. Pretty hard rubber but still enough grip on gym floor.
Pedals: Qu-Ax Cross. Wide platform, good grip from plastic pins
Cranks: Steel square taper 75mm / 100mm depending on what I’m practicing

I bought the original unicycle in the late 90’s (around 98 I think). It had lollipop bearings. Later I changed pedals, seat, cranks (orginal: 125mm), frame (twice), tires, …
The only orignal parts are the wheel itself and the seatpost.

These are my street riding 36-inch Unicycles that I explore SoCal with ride for exercise and leisure.
I purchased both of these from unicyclecom one’s a nimbus Oracle $995 the other a nimbus Knight Rider $650

I highly recommend either one of these UNI’S if you’re looking for distance rides or flat land.

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