Please help: Nimbus range warrenty????

Does UDC have a warranty on there products?

I bought a 2007 nimbus X freestyle uni just over a week ago. I assembled it taking great care that the pedals were on the right side (as I know it is easy to strip the thread if they are fitted incorrectly) then after riding it for a day I removed the pedals (which were fine) one at a time, applied locktight and then fitted them back on tightened them up then leaving them over night.

But a couple of days ago I notest my left pedal wobble slightly. I hopped off straight away and gave it a wobble and sure enough it was loose. I went up to my garage again and put a turn on it (not the bird :smiley: ) It was stiff trying both ways, this made me worried, knowing there wasn’t much that could be done if it was stripped or cross threaded I tried it again and this time it just span and did not tighten. I stopped there and went out to practice my ww and gliding and to gather my thoughts.

After a good session I went back up to the garage with one thing on my mind, remove the pedal. I span it and span it and span it but it did not move, just got looser. Knowing the crank was aluminum and the pedal was sure to be stronger I hopped at least the pedal would be fine and that hopefully I could just get a replacement crank.

I got the pedal off and it appears fine apart from some aluminum from the crank stuck in the thread (hopefully I can remove this) the crank however is completely stripped :frowning:

Do you know if there is a warranty on the nimbus unicycles that will cover this? I will pay for a new crank (and maybe pedal) if I have to but seeing as there was nothing I have done wrong I believe I shouldn’t have to.

What are your thoughts?

FLUCK results? trials, muni, speedtrials, street, everything else?

hi all,

just wondering what’s happened over at fluck, who’s come where and what in whatever competition.

regardin your problem, i reckon UDC can sort ya out, i heard good stuff about the UK one but not the US… Just talk to em and explain the problem and they should be able to help. they arent like most bike shops where they dont give a shit

You really should have created your own thread for that…

Marky, are you sure the wobble was coming from where the pedal meets the crank? Sometimes cheaper plastic pedals wobble a bit on their axle while still being tight at the crank. Which color loctite did you use?

Yea I am sure, I have removed the pedal now, took alot, It just span and didnt move. I think I may be able to get away with just a new crank but it depends if I can clean up the thread on the pedal or not. I have emailed UDC about it now but have not had a reply back yet :frowning: At least I can still ww and glide on it for now and I still have my KH :slight_smile:

look at the pedal you took off. Does it have an “L” or an “R” on it? I’m wondering if you may have put the pedals back on the wrong sides when you took them off to loctite them.

What kind of riding were you doing on it? If it was pretty normal freestyle type stuff then I think you have every right to expect a replacement, when i bust a crank a few years ago on my nimbus muni UDC UK shipped me another overnight without hesitation, and when i got a defective pair on my N36 that twisted when i still-stood at the lights again they again shipped me replacements without delay.

I didnt do anything other than freestyle on it. I phoned UDC and they sent me a new one half price. They said that there is no warrenty that covers that because they are often fitted incorectly. Although I did take great care fitting it and was quite sure it was correctly fitted. He also said that you should never locktight pedals which I thought was strange as it doesnt cause any dammage, just prevents them from loosening. I got a new set of cranks and have fitted the crank and the pedal. I did the pedal reasonably tight (not wanting to strip the thread) and after a very short distance it losened off. It kept doing this so now I have locktighted it and its fine and Hopfuly it will last a bit longer this time.

loc-tite on a pedal is un necessary because the pedal should always tighten iself, did you make sure that the wheelset is on the correct way? or were you doing a lot of backwards riding?

I am certain the wheel was on the correct way round and no I didnt do much backwards riding. Even when I was just practising my gliding it seemed to losen. I did it up reasonably tight but not realy tight because I was conserned that I would strip the thread but its not like it was loose. The lock tight does seem to be doing the job though and seeing as it takes little effort to do and doesnt cause dammage I dont see anything wrong with it.

what are you putting locktight on your uni for??

you can tighten em so tight without stripping the cranks that you have to use a sledgehammer to get em off, (ok, ok, just a wrench with a handel a few feet long)because of the way the pedal is able to “dig in” to the silver alloy(assuming it was a stock nimbus)

actually, i could conceivably see somone not wanting a small indentation around the pedal hole in their crank arms, so do whatever you want…

not without cross-threading the crank…

Still, I’d check the wheel and cranks again. You may have put the wheel on backwards, but the pedals on the correct “side” and stripped the holes.

Several times I have tried to put the pedals on the wrong side or reinstalled the wheel backwards. One time I did both at the same time so the pedals went on fine, but then came undone when I went for a ride. Luckily I always hand tighten them a fair amount first and often do as you did, so I don’t mix them up.

Also possibly you may have been accidentally sent two cranks for the same side, so check for that “L” or “R” on the inside of each.