Thankyou!
Right at the moment the seat is about 4cm lower than I can put it on the KH36. My increase in success rate to freemount is huge just with that minor seat lowering.
I find aiming to hop with my mount really helps too, it forces me to get over the wheel completely and not fall short.
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I don’t use a static mount with my KH36. I always use a rolling mount. I started out learning to static mount, but found that when I had a UPD or needed to get off for some reason after riding for even just a few miles, I struggled with the energy to get back on.
The rolling mount uses way less energy for me and my success rate has been almost 100%, even after riding 9 or 10 miles.
It’s good to see you’re enjoying 36"riding once more. 36" free mounting is a difficult task and takes months to get proficient at. In the early days I was very loath to dismount a 36" once I got started because getting back on was a real nuisance.
I tend to agree that you get a 36" for distance riding because both your top/cruising speed are substantially faster then any other wheel. Although a 36" with 150mm cranks to me seems poorly suited for distance riding and more for showing off. 36" really shine for distance when you run short cranks like 110mm as it’s so easy on the knees and you’re just going with the flow.
I’m currently using 170mm cranks on my 36er. I’m not really interested in how fast I can go. For me it’s more a matter of what I can climb, descend and what I can roll over. I’m much more interested in riding that challenging 100m of trail without falling than I am in covering long distances.
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