Posted this on product reviews on an old thread, but no responses:
I’m looking to replace the stock nimbus pedals on my Oracle 36 with Nukeproof electrons. Will they be lower (skinnier) than the stock nimbus pedals? I am on the short side, so don’t want to lose any height. I can just barely fit on my 150 hole cranks, high-soled Five-ten shoes and street saddle, so I probably wouldn’t want thinner pedals than the stock pedals.
Also, is there anyway to give me more height than I have? I heard it mentioned that some seat post clamps can do that for you. I am using the stock double quick release clamp.
Probably won’t be too much of a problem for most my riding because I am now ready to move to the 127 holes. The 150s are already too big. But there are times I might want the 150s for off-road, really big hills etc…and I am liking the comfort of the freeride saddle on my 29 better than the street, so I may end up switching to a thicker saddle soon.
I believe they are skinnier, though I’d imagine the difference may be negligible.
I can’t see how a seat clamp would give you more height. All the seat clamps I have, have a lip at the top that sits on the edge of the frame. Even if they didn’t have the lip and could slide further down, you’d still be limited by how tall the neck of your frame is.
Many that have trouble with frames being too tall, will actually cut part of the neck of their frame off.
Yes, what Claude said, a fixed post will give you a bunch more space if you are currently using an adjustable post. If you have the Nimbus touring bar, then you can’t change the post unless you change to a KH touring bar.
Also look at using a thinner seat, or even cutting down the frame. Cutting the seat tube is not a big job, most shops will do it for a small fee.
The Nukeproof pedals will increase the seat to pedal distance by ~5-7mm over the stock Nimbus pedals.
I just put DMR V8’s on my 36, but can’t really comment on how serviceable they are. They’re loose bearing pedals, so that’s going against them, but on MTBR people said they were decent. I believe there’s a sealed bearing option available as well (V12’s maybe?). They’re taller, and have a grease port in the body for easy maintenance (and come with free grease too).
Probably the biggest factor was they were available at my favorite LBS. I went on their site, and researched all their pedals within my price range on MTBR and Google. V8’s are what I ended up with.
To follow up…I got the V8s off of amazon. Plain silver. I rode them on my 36 for a while, but found them a bit too sticky for comfort on my 36 while commuting, so I use them on my 24" muni. I do love them. They are very smooth feeling and never slip. Great for muni. I swapped out my Twisted PCs from my 29er and put them on my 36 for commuting and they are working out great for that use. I like them because they are a bit less grippy and light, though they are starting to spin not so smoothly. Not sure what if anything I can do about that.
I just bought the silver and black version of these… Not sure if they will work because the spindle seems to protrude a long was out of the crank (red black pedal pic)
This could mean the pedal is pushed out further and might equate to the equivalent of having a Q factor on the crank, when I prefer to ride without any Q factor. We shall see.
I was concerned that the new pedals I ordered may protrude out of the crank too far. Because the pedal spindle looked quite long and I thought it could introduce, in effect, a Q factor even with zero Q on the cranks.
(pics) Pedals are packaged attractively but are the most expensive I have ever bought. Adjustable pins to ‘dial-in’ the amount of foot movement.
So, I have compared the new pedals against plastic ones that I ride with. The photo shows the new pedal does protrude further from the crank than my plastic pedal. the spindle is about 5mm longer on the new pedal.
I’m not sure what the Q factor measurement is in millimeters on a crank, compared to a zero Q factor crank. Does anybody have advice? Whether I could percieve the difference as I ride remains to be assessed.
There won’t be any difference. Since you can ride with your foot rubbing the crank in either case the q stays the same. If your foot was secured to the pedal it may have some effect on the tread, which could add virtual q.
I think this gets to the heart of why Q Factor is defined as the distance from the pedal mount on one crank to the pedal mount on the other crank. It’s the overall gap that’s important, and not just the crank offset. Since there are a variety of things that effect the Q factor it is simplistic to assign the value to crank offset alone. It kind of works for uni’s since our spindle length is not too variable.
Fwiw an ultimate wheel is the closest you can get to truly zero Q. My UW has a Q Factor of 18mm’s. By comparison my “zero Q” Ventures have a Q Factor of 180mm’s.
Qu-Ax 100mm (pic)