Pedal Melt-down...?

I got my new Muni 3 days ago, and absolutely love it. As some of you know, I bought a used KH24" Wheelset and the seller threw in a set of Wellgo B-27 pedals. I love the way these pedals hold my feet, no slips at all. Even while riding in the rain and back and forth through a big creek (50 or more times), my feet never slipped once. In fact, here is what I wrote just 3 days ago about my first ride with these pedals:
“My new Muni is fitted with Wellgo B-27 pin pedals. These are my first metal pin type pedals. Having just rained prior to my ride, I never had even one pedal slip while on this nite ride. Wherever I wanted my feet, they were. These pedals rock.”

However, the seller also told me “before the sale” that the pedals had a “creaking” noise in them when pedaling. He said they were like this from the first day he used them. I did not check for the cause of this “creaking” before installing them on my new Muni. But today, the right pedal had a complete melt-down. I felt the pedal let go as I was riding. It actually slid off its on axle to the outside. There were tiny fragments of what used to be a sealed bearing stuck all throughout the grease.

The other pedal was also making this noise. I disassembled it a few minutes ago, and the outer sealed bearing appears perfect, but the inner race had no bearing left in it at all.

Bottom Line: I absolutely loved the feel of these Wellgo B-27 pedals. The large base and all the pins gave me great confidence while ridingl. Now I need help from my fellow Muni riders. What pedals should I buy now? Remember, I am 265 lbs of big boy abuse on top of two little pedals and one bad tire. Suggestions??? --chirokid–

I had the same problem with my B-27’s. They had the best feel of any pedal I’ve used, but they only lasted me 3 months. Right away, I noticed that the end caps would come loose if I didn’t check to make sure they were tight from time to time. While doing some pedal grabs and 3 foot drops, the right pedal started feeling lose. I checked the end cap and it was tight. Not trusting these for muni, I put them on an ultimate wheel I was learning to ride. The right pedal continued to get looser until it finally started locking up and then fell off.

I’m not sure what pedal to suggest. I’ve had great luck with these;
They’re cheap and they last forever, but the platform doesn’t feel as stable as the B-27’s.

I’m using SNAFU’s on my muni now and they have held up great.
They don’t have as good of grip as the B-27’s and they have a pretty tall profile.

Good luck… Joe

I’ve never had a problem with my Odyssey Twisted Pro Pedals, and I’m not playing soft with these. Never done more than a couple foot drops, but I have put on around a hundred and fifty miles with no problems at all. They seem stable to me, but then again, I’ve never tried anything else. I checked some mountain bike reviews, and they mostly seemed pretty positive about this specific type.
Good luck!

Bearing destruction is common, and expected, with pedals like the Wellgo B-27 and other pedals that use a similar design.

One option is to get replacement bearings for your pedals. Bearings are about $8 each and you’ll need two (one for each pedal). Replacement bearings are cheaper than new pedals. Figure on getting 3 months (maybe more) use with the new bearings before needing to replace them.

The B-27’s use 686ZZ bearings
13mm OD
6mm ID
5mm wide

If you want new pedals I would recommend the AtomLab Aircorps or the Brooklyn Machine Works Shinburger.

Checkernuts had the Shinburger pedals at the Vancouver Island Muni Weekend. They looked good and not as scary as I thought they would be. A large platform that is comfortable to stand on. Very grippy. And they use two or three cartridge bearings per pedal. Disadvantage is that they’re heavy.

The Atomlab Aircorps are great. They use a single cartridge bearing per pedal. I got about a year and a half out of a set of bearings with them.

The Shinburger pedals are $99.99 at The Aircorps are about $95 at various online bike shops listed in my review of the pedals. has them on sale for $79.99 right now.

I liked the feel of the B-27’s but like others have found, they don’t seem as though they’re built to last.
I feel bad that chirokid didn’t get more use out of them. I wasn’t using them at all and included them in the sale of the wheel as a “throw-in” item. Maybe I should have "thrown " them away instead.
I used them on two Muni rides, my son rode them off and on for a month or so. They were noisy from the first ride. They were on sale for only $29.95 but that’s a lot when they don’t perform.
I’ve been extremely pleased with the Shimano DX pedals. They have held up beautifully for nearly 2 years, have been exposed to all sorts of abuse (all except pedal grabs, not my bag) and still feel like “butta”.
As I told chirokid in an e-maill, I buy them from a seller on ebay for $50.00 US. I’ve got three pairs.
Personally, I wouldn’t try rebuilding them. From the prices John Childs quotes for replacement bearings, I would put that money towards a new pair of pedals with a better design.
You don’t have to spend $100 for a good set of pedals but in my experience $30.00 was too little.

  • Frank

Cost is not a good indicator of pedal robustness. The Easton platform pedals sell for about $90 and they have the exact same problem with the bearing as the Wellgo B-27’s. The Easton platform pedals use the same pedal design as the Wellgo’s that destroys the cartridge bearings.

The Shimano MX30 platform pedal (a.k.a. Shimano DX platform pedal) has gotten very good reviews from other muni riders too. It’s a solid pedal for muni. I have not tried the Shimano pedal because my preference is for a larger platform, but if you like the shape and size of the DX style pedals the Shimano MX30’s are a very good choice. The Shimano pedals usually sell in around the $90 range but I just saw them on for $59.98. If they’re going for less on eBay that’s good too.

I got some of the Wellgo B-27 pedals when they were on sale at Performance. I got them for use on the Coker. The Coker doesn’t get the abuse of a muni so the B-27’s will hold up much longer. I’m not going to use the B-27’s on my muni.

Re: Pedal Melt-down…?

On Mon, 1 Sep 2003 14:49:14 -0500, Frank A.
<> wrote:

>Personally, I wouldn’t try rebuilding them. From the prices John
>Childs quotes for replacement bearings, I would put that money towards a
>new pair of pedals with a better design.
>You don’t have to spend $100 for a good set of pedals but in my
>experience $30.00 was too little.

But wouldn’t you have eliminated the worst part of the B-27’s when you
replace the bearings? Then, after their initial failure, you would
have good-feeling and longer-lasting pedals for only $16.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

I go a sort of ok speed on my Coker… - Roger Davies

Re: Re: Pedal Melt-down…?

With replacement bearings you’ll end up with functioning pedals again. But they won’t last a long time because they bearings will self-destruct again. Depending on how much abuse the pedals get the new bearings could last 3 months, 6 months, more, less, it’s hard to know. The fault is the pedal design and not the bearings.

Short term it’s cheaper to go with new bearings. Long term it’s better to go with new pedals like the Shimano’s, Aircorp’s, or Shinburger’s.


personally, im a fan of the bulletproofs. theres no better incentive than a bleeding shin with every mistake…

I have the Zuzu’s which are basically the bulletproofs, but with sealed bearings and more pins, and if you crankgrab or pedalgrab too much on ethier one, the platform will crack and eventually break off. They usually crack at the pins. Mine have already begun this process.
I have some generic aluminum Diamondback pedals on my 20" which I bought at the local bike shop for $5 because a bearing was a bit loose, and they’ve held up great. I’ve done well over 500 attempted crank grabs on them, without a problem. I’ve also put well over 800 miles on them and no problems yet. They’re the same as the bulletproof, except they don’t have screw-in pins, so the platform is stronger.
I’ve also heard good things about the DK Iron cross pedals (non-magnesium, sealed bearings). They are a bit heavy but they’re ultra beefy, and seem to be good pedals. I don’t know if they’re made anymore, though.

800 miles on a 20"? over how long?

Frank, please don’t feel that way. I absolutely loved the feel of those B-27’s. If you had thrown them away, I would have never experienced them.

I appreciate everyones recommendations. I wanted pedals today, so I could ride. My LBS was closed for labor day, my second choice LBS had up a “be back in 1 hour and 15 minutes” sign. So I went to the only other bike store in my town. They were open, wippppeee, but only had 1 pair of platform pin pedals. I bought them, for what I am sure was way to many $'s. They probalby closed on up the shop after I walked out, laughing because they finally found a sucker to sell that last pair of platform pedals.

They are called “Free Agent” Factory Racing Pedals. They are your basic black, with a slight twisted look. They are ball bearing style and the box says they are “one piece alloy construction.” But, truthfully, they do NOT feel very good. I guess I will have to wait and see how they perform.

Anyone have experience with the “Free Agent” Factory Racing Platform Pin Pedals? If they are really bad, please don’t tell me, :smiley: because I already bought, installed and used them. But the good news, my Muni is Back in Action!!! --chirokid–

i rode a pair of shinburgers in germany, they feel realy good, but like the name says they tear up flesh realy easily. and they weigh about a ton.
unless you unicycle is more about looks than performance then the extra weight just isn`t worth it. the profile hub is heavy enough as it is.

ive got some shimano dx alikes by outland. and they still work after over a years hardcore abuse. ive nearly ground the pins off on my grab/grind side. i don`t actualy cover huge distances on my trials uni though, but i do ride at skateparks and do urban trials verry regularly, i.e. at least every other day.

pedal fetish aside id just buy the next set i saw with sealed bearings, a large cncd platform, replacable hex pins and a place to open a beer bottle.

I have a pair of shinburgers for my muni, I would say they feel really nice. The platform is HUGE to say the least. I got them for quite a deal especially because they have 3 sealed bearing cartriges in em…

I dont ride muni without my pads on so I dont see the teeth intimadating at all. And for other rides I swap my pedals out with some Twisted PC’s

The weight doesnt bother me too much at all when your riding, and the grip is nice when your hopping up on stuff.

If you need some BEEFY pedals I think the shinburgers will do the job better than anyother…


I’ve been commuting on that uni averaging about 5-15 miles a week over the past year and a half. I’ll break the thousand mark sometime before January, by my estimate.

You can grease up unsealed pedals and they’ll spin more smoothly. It’s a bit of a pain because you have to keep track of all the loose ball bearings when you take them apart. Adjusting the tightness on bearing cups when you put them back together is also tricky. If you get them too tight the pedals won’t spin smoothly. If you get them too loose the pedal will wobble and wiggle on the spindle. There is a very line between too loose and too tight.

When you do take the pedals apart do it in a shoe box so you don’t loose any of the ball bearings. Pack some grease on the spindle and around the ball bearings. Put it all back together. Tighten the nut that squeezes the bearing races together. Put the end cap back on. And you’re good to go.

The unsealed pedals will last you longer than the B-27’s. The bearings won’t fall apart on you like the cartridge bearings in the B-27’s.

If you do get pedal envy you can splurge on the Shimano or AtomLab pedals. It’s always good to have a spare set of pedals on hand anyways, as you have just found out.

Don’t worry about “wasting” money on pedals. I’ve made some poor pedal purchase decisions buying pedals that didn’t end up lasting very long. I bought some $90 Easton platform pedals that destroyed bearings just like your B-27’s did. I stopped using the Easton pedals because I could never trust them to stay together for an entire ride. Then I tried some $80 Kore platform pedals that lasted about three months before the needle bearings self-destructed. That was an $80 learning experience. Now that I’ve found the AtomLab Aircorps I’m a happy camper and pedal problems are not a big problem any more.

So buy a nice pair of pedals, keep the Free Agent’s as a spare, and don’t feel any guilt. The Shimano’s and Aircorp’s are on sale right now so go for it.

Originally posted by john_childs

You can grease up unsealed pedals and they’ll spin more smoothly.


How ironic! As soon as I got home tonight, I broke down one of my new pedals to grease and adjust it. It spun a little rough, right out of the box, so I planned to work on it at my first opportunity. What I found was a pedal with almost no grease. I packed it full of grease and adjusted it really well. I had no problem with the bearings because I have done this fix many times as a kid on the front hub of my bikes and re-packing/adjusting roller skate wheels.

Originally posted by john_childs
If you do get pedal envy you can splurge on the Shimano or AtomLab pedals. It’s always good to have a spare set of pedals on hand anyways, as you have just found out.


Oh how I understand that fact. I have checked out the DX and Aircorps, thanks for all the info. I may try some of the Odyssey Twisted Pro Pedals for three reasons: 1. Cheap price 2. Yellow (I like yellow) and 3. Paco recommeded (I want to ride like paco, will the pedals he use help me to ride like Paco?) :smiley: When I break the Odysseys, I’ll spring for the high $$ Shimano or Aircorps, they both look awesome. For the time being, the Free Agents will make great spares (for Labor Day weekend Breaks). One question on teh Shimano and Aircorps: You recommend the SEALED bearing on each of these, Right?

Originally posted by john_childs
Don’t worry about “wasting” money on pedals. I’ve made some poor pedal purchase decisions buying pedals that didn’t end up lasting very long.


The sharing of all this info has sure saved me some $$ in the long run. I appreciate everyone’s input about my pedal dilemma.

BTW, after tonights ride, I still do not care for my new Free Agent Pedals. The seem to hold my foot in place, but my feet just never felt perfect. On the B-27’s, my feet always felt perfect. For the first 3 days at least :D!!! --chirokid–

My fingers type slower than my brain. I have a bad habit of leaving out words as I type.
That line in my previous message should read:
There is a very fine line between too loose and too tight.

Yup. Both the Shimano and AtomLab pedals are available only in sealed flavors.

As for sealed vs. unsealed. Unsealed are actually a better choice if you’re going to be riding in wet or sandy conditions. You can repack the bearings in an unsealed pedal. If you get dirt in a cartridge bearing or if water washes away the grease in a cartridge bearing you have to replace the whole bearing at about $8 each. So if you plan on riding through a lot of sand or through a lot of water then put on unsealed pedals.

If you like the way the B-27’s feel under your feet then you’ll love the Aircorps. The Aircorps have a large flat platform similar to the B-27’s. That’s one reason why I love the Aircorps – they are comfortable to stand on and just feel right.

The Shimano’s have a smaller platform and are more concave which makes them less comfortable for me to stand on.

My philosophy on unicycle purchases and unicycle parts purchases is that money spent is a good thing and even if a unicycle part doesn’t work out it’s not money wasted. If I stressed and worried about the money spent on unicycles and parts I’d never have any fun.

You mean, ride up semi-steep hills and give up right before getting to the hard parts? I pretend that I’m good at MUni (mostly to make me feel like I’m good at something), but I huff and puff my way up and down things like anyone else. The stuff that I find “extreme” would probably make a John Childs or a John Foss ashamed for me for how much I’m fooling myself.
But I appreciate you trying to make me feel good! :wink:

I have snafu pedals on my 07 kh 20 I have only been riding it for maybe a month or two but now they keep making a strange noise which sounds very unhealthy but there is no play in them. any suggestions on what I should do to/with them? I was thinking of taking them apart and packing them wih grease, is this wise or will I loose berrings or dammage it more if I try?