Park TS-2 with kh converters

Anyone use the kh bearing.mounts for the park truing stand? I assume kh uses this to build their wheels or do they machine build? Any idea if it would work with a spin doctor stand?

Do you areas have the Spin Doctor stand? I don’t think the KH adapters will work with it. They rely on a close fit in the channel of the Park stand to prevent rotation. If you secure the bolt enough to stop the rotation it would most likely crush the plastic fork end on the stand.

The Minoura (spin doctor) stand is pretty low quality when compared to a uni frame. I would just use a frame, and maybe make a stand for it so that it would sit on the workbench like a regular truing stand. As for feelers I would use my handy “A” clamp feeler for wobble, and a piece of string/wire clamped between the two legs for hops and dips.


Can we see a picture with it on the frame? How did you make those feelers that you attach to the a clamps? They look like they have rubber on the ends.

Yes I have the spin dr. It’s. A cheap piece of garbage. Getting into bike building and thinking of getting a park stand.

The Spin Doctor stand isn’t totally garbage, but it is pretty light duty. I think for the average consumer truing wheels, gluing sewups, and building on occasion it is fine.

My feeler is made out of an “A” clamp with a 1/4"x20tpi coupler attached with a hose clamp, and a 6" bolt through. The end has a plastic cap on it. I’ve made similar ones using spare valve caps for the end.

I’ll see if I can find a picture of it on a frame. To be honest I made it as a quick, and accurate feeler for truing wheels on the bike. Most of the time I true wheels on customers bikes they aren’t severe enough to require going in the truing stand, and it adds a lot of extra time to the repair.

Here it is on my 32:


A super bargan alternative is to use zip-ties around your uni frame forks. Used this on bicycle wheel builds for years before buying a truing stand.

I have the TS-2.2 and the KH mounts. They work perfect. It will even hold a 36 wheel (the tire must be removed).

Zip ties work well, but it’s a bit tedious to get them adjusted carefully for fine truing. The clamp with the threaded coupler gives results as good as the best truing stand.

If you already have a TS2 the KH adapters would be a nice addition. I have a VAR Atomic, so they wouldn’t work for me.

If I somehow found myself building a lot of uni wheels I still don’t think I would get a TS2 with the adapters. I just can’t imagine that it would be any better than a uni frame. Plus the uni frame has the advantage in showing you the real dish of your wheel as you build. The auto dishing on the TS2 is notoriously difficult to keep calibrated (most shops don’t even bother).

Thanks jtrops. As you know I’ve gotten into building wheels, including a recent BMX flatland build. The Spin Dr. is OK. It does the job I guess. But I recently tried someone’s TS2, and boy is there a difference. If you are building more than a few wheels, it may be worth it. There’s nothing like good tools.

But then, uni wheels don’t fit it, unless you get the converters. That Aclamp idea is great. I hate the zip ties, pens etc on the frame. I can’t quite see from the picture how the bolts are attached to the clamp. And what did you use to cover the end of the bolts?

I can’t agree more.

I would consider the TS2 okay. I don’t know if I would say that it is altogether “good.” It is certainly a sturdy, heavy piece of equipment, but as far as I can tell the only people who really push it have never used another pro level truing stand. I wonder if the KH adapters would work in a Park TS7. It is a cheaper stand, but I think better in some ways. It is also a heavy tool (used for motorcycle wheels :astonished: )

Like many mechanics I have learned to adapt to the eccentricities of the TS2, but why should you have to lock a feeler out of the way with a screwdriver just to be able to use it? I think it is an okay stand for truing, but for building it is slow compared to my VAR.

I have a threaded coupler that is just strapped to the clamp with a hose clamp. The bolt is just threaded through it, and then a plastic cap (one I found laying around) on the end to prevent scratching the rim. Like I said before I have made similar versions with a valve cap on the end of the bolt. The valve cap version works better if you use a smaller bolt, like 3/16" instead of the 1/4" bolt I used on this one.

You can buy the plastic caps at Home Depot. They come in many different sizes. At my local store they are in the specialty hardware drawers.

Hi jtrops, what size a-clamps are those? 4" or 6"? Thanks.