And found that it doesn’t go in. I checked the thread and it looks clean. I’m trying this at my LBS. I showed the guy working there (they’re all really surprisingly nice too) and he found it odd and then he used his CCP 22 Park square crank puller and it works:
They’re both listed to be able to handle 22mm x1 thread and both are said to be good for square taper cranks.
Awhile back I messed up my left crank arm due to going back and not knowing about what it does to the pedals. Just got another replacement thanks to rtdeden2. It’s the only unicycle that has diamond/square taper cranks. Hopefully it’ll work perfectly fine for the ISIS cranks when I need it, I haven’t tried it on them yet.
Anyone tried the CWP 7 on your square taper cranks with success?
did you use the small tip for the square taper cranks, or were you trying to use the ISIS/Octalink tip? If you were using the small tip it should have worked. The only thing I can think of that would be a problem would be that you have an axle with a nut instead of a bolt. Some extractors don’t work with nutted axles.
I just did exactly this, youtube link to specific time in which he uses it:
2 minute mark if the video doesn’t skip to it like it’s suppose to. I blame youtube.
When I screw it in like the guy screws it into his bike, it just doesn’t go in. I believe that’s how you’re suppose to do it with all the square tapers, the LBS guy did the same and it didn’t fit. Guess I should try it on the ISIS crank and see if it’s any good. But I need that stuff to unscrew the crank bolt, I don’t have that.
Okay, that vid helps. He used the ISIS foot, and it worked because he was using it on a nutted spindle. If you have a spindle with a bolt the ISIS foot will bottom out against the crank, and you won’t be able to put pressure against the spindle. There is an alternate smaller foot on the opposite side of the puller that should pull off, and replace the ISIS foot for removing cranks from a spindle that uses a bolt.
I have that same tool and I used it on my Torker LX 26" just fine. Unfortunately, I don’t remember how I did it, but I know that it worked when I switched out my cranks for nimbus ventures. Good luck!
Both of my unis are square-tapered. One uses nuts and the other uses bolts. I have pulled cranks from both with the same tool. It required a bit more force than I expected to get the cranks to come off, never having done this before, but it did work.
Tools are different. Some will work on either style. I have a Campagnolo tool that will not work on a nutted spindle.
The CWP 7 will work on either, and it has a foot for ISIS, and one for square taper. With this one it’s just that you need to have the ST foot if you are pulling a crank from a bolt type spindle.
I’m saying that the nut has issue screwing into the unicycle threading.
It’s weird because after this, I tried the left crank which the guy at the LBS used his crank puller on and now it goes all the way in. Not completely smoothly but enough that I can screw it in with my finger. I guess his crank puller smoothed out the threading in my unicycle?
The right one I cannot screw it in with my finger. I’m afraid that if I apply more pressure, it would mess up the threading on my tool. I’ve greased it up too and it only goes a third ways in before it becomes too hard. Am I suppose to use a tool to screw it in? I had the impression that I wouldn’t need to in case it damages the thread.
Maybe it’s just my unicycle. Maybe the tools are just rebelling against me
I have the same crank extractor and it works fine on my square taper’s.
Usually I thread it in with my fingers as far as I can, and then snug it up with a wrench until its pretty tight. Then just thread in the removal foot and spin it with a wrench until the crank pops off.
Don’t you need to remove that axle nut before you remove the crank? (My uni’s only have the axle bolts, not the nuts).
In an ideal world you shouldn’t need a wrench to thread the puller into the crank. Usually you just use a wrench to snug it up at the end. As long as you are sure that the threads aren’t crossed you may need a wrench to get past jazzed up threads, or poorly cut threads. The tool is hardened steel so the crank won’t harm it’s threads, but the tool could rip out the cranks threads if you aren’t careful.
By “the same tool”, I meant the CWP 7. As in the same one that he was talking about. I seem to have lost that nuance in an edit. I used the smaller square taper foot, of course.
I was afraid that if I use a wrench it would really mess up my Park crank puller thread. I had this notion from a unicycle related crank puller How-To-Do video and some reviews on amazon that said something like that.
Yeah, I just did it for a quick reference picture.
