Something I’ve been wondering for a while, but never got round to doing anything about it…
Can you put the bolts in the other way round, so the nut is at the top? The bolt head is a lot lower, so wouldn’t be damaged so easily. Both top and bottom holes have the little indentation to stop the bolt spinning.
All my unis have the nut at the bottom, simply because that’s how my first uni came like. Here’s where I find out everyone has them the other way round…
You sure can, and a lot of trials riders do, turn the bolts around in the
hole.
Darren
phil wrote:
> Something I’ve been wondering for a while, but never got round to doing
> anything about it…
>
> Can you put the bolts in the other way round, so the nut is at the top?
> The bolt head is a lot lower, so wouldn’t be damaged so easily. Both top
> and bottom holes have the little indentation to stop the bolt
> spinning.
>
> All my unis have the nut at the bottom, simply because that’s how my
> first uni came like. Here’s where I find out everyone has them the other
> way round…
>
> Phil, just me
>
> –
> phil - Curiouser and Curiouser…
>
> “Cattle Prods solve most of life’s little problems.”
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Agreed, it could be UHMW polyethylene “clip ons” so when they are trashed
they could easily be replaced. Plastic would also give some modest
protection to whatever you grind or grab.
Well - it’s something I’ve been trying to get round to doing for a few weeks now - I have an aluminium one going on a test uni - but I don’t think it’ll be worth it.
I recess the allenbolts on my frames to eliminate any chance of them digging in, you’ll acheive simmilar results if you put the bolts through with nut upward there’s no chance of them catching.
A square-edged block is not a good idea for grinding either - there is less tolerance on your grind angle and the edges dig in.
Finally it’ll work out more expensive than just buying replacement shells and they’ll wear quicker etc.
Here’s an idea - why not have a heavier cap with threaded holes for the bolts (so no nuts to worry about). The holes could end in cross-drilled holes so that the bottom was protected but you wouldn’t have a blind hole that could fill up with crap:
>
> Here’s an idea - why not have a heavier cap with threaded holes for the
> bolts (so no nuts to worry about). The holes could end in cross-drilled
> holes so that the bottom was protected but you wouldn’t have a blind
> hole that could fill up with crap:
I have a bearing holder of this design for my custom 28". Any bike
machinisst could make one up. It will just be cheaper the more people who
are getting them made. Mine is shaped semicircular, with the bolts going
up, into threads attached as part of the main frame (i.e. there is just an
inset hole on the main bearing cap)
>
the only problem with bearing holders with just a bolt is that if you happen to strip the thread somehow, you’re screwed, whereas with nuts and bolts you can always just pick up another one.