Ordering overlong spokes for Coker...

Ahoy All, I ain’t dead!

So I need 5 spokes for my Coker brand 36". I’ve measured the existing spokes and got ~355mm, I saw on another thread that they’re supposed to be 358mm. My question is, if I order 360+mm from UDC, is that definitely long enough that my LBS can cut them down?

And as an aside, from what I can tell Coker has discontinued their unis (took me a while to find a link to the one bike the sell). Does anyone make hubs that fit the Coker Big One frame?

I suppose it depends if the LBS needs the spoke long enough to have a clean surface to roll new threads, or if they can just extend the existing ones. Typically the threaded section is 10 mm.

If they use something like a Phil Wood spoke machine it might be a problem, but it wouldn’t be an issue with a Hozan etc. I would just ask the bike shop if what you are planning on ordering would work with the equipment they have.

I believe Cokers were 127mm (5") bearing spacing, Nimbus superwide is 125mm, I would think that’s close enough that you would never tell the difference.

Eric is right about the spoke threaders. Adding a few mm’s of threads onto a spoke with the Hozan is super fast and easy. Also, if it is a box section rim (double wall) you may not even need to clip them since the rim tape will be well above the end of the spokes.

As for the hub:
Once again Eric is correct about the width. I will say, from experience, that if you have a steel Coker frame it would be a good idea to squeeze the legs together. That 2mm’s of difference won’t keep you from installing the wheel, but over time the bearings may start drifting wider on the axle. In my case it was only one bearing and one day I looked down with the tire off center.

If you have an aluminum coker frame I would probably pull the bearings off the new hub, and put a 1mm spacer on each side between the bearings and the stop next to the flange.

Of course you could just try it, and see what happens. I don’t think there would be any damage done if it ended up needing a bit of work later on.

Hmmm… I’ll have to find out, I guess… I’ve no idea what spoke cutter they have.

Also no idea what kind of frame I have, just that it’s a Coker Big One. I can probably figure it out though, and/or ask the previous owner. The hub is a bit messed up because I rode with a loose crank, so I’m thinking of replacing with a splined design, as opposed to the square taper it came with :wink:

It’s not common for a loose crank to cause problems with the spindle. The spindle usually wins in that battle, and the crank flats get munched. Have you tried a new crank arm on the hub to verify that it isn’t engaging correctly?

If your Coker Big One looks like the one below it looks like it has a steel frame and steel single thickness rim. It may be hard or impossible to find an ISIS axle to replace your cotterless axle because the OD of the bearings are different.

About the spoke length, if you carefully measured your wheel and parts there is a spoke calculator at https://www.unicycle.uk.com/calculator/
However since you have an original spoke the easiest route for you would be to carefully measure your existing spoke. You would be sure that if the existing spokes are correctly sized, then your replacement spokes would fit without any modification.


jtrops is right in that hubs usually destroy cranks and not the other way around but I did wreck the hub interface on my first cheap unicycle with successive sets of United brand steel cranks. I would think (but don’t know) that the coker hub would have been hardened and is likely OK especially if the cranks that got loose are aluminum.

I do understand the need (want) to upgrade while doing major maintenance like re-building a wheel. If the frame has pressed bearing holders they will hold the standard 42mm ISIS bearings without issue. The same can’t be said of machined bearing housings. Steel frames typically but don’t always have pressed bearing housings. If you aren’t sure if they are pressed or machined take some pics of the bearing caps and someone here will be able to tell you.

If you have machined bearing housings the easiest thing to do is to get the KH adaptor bearings that have the same 40mm OD as on cotterless wheels. If you do that it would be an easy thing to add 1mm spacers to each side. Snap-rings make pretty good fine-tuning spacers :slight_smile:

… I don’t know why removing a spoke didn’t occur to me… Probably because I’m lazy (I meant to order new spokes last summer and never did :P). It’s the aluminum frame, so don’t know how that would affect things.

I’m on my 3rd set of cranks I think, I kept thinking that the pedal was going and never tightened the crank… twice at least… but I think I learned with the last set. I suppose I could order another set of cranks, but I’ll wait to get the spokes sorted out first… On the one hand I want to get her running again for relatively cheap, on the other hand I broke 4 spokes by just riding on roads, so replacing them all might be a good idea…

I need some cheaper hobbies :wink:

I would replace the ones that are broken for now, but if you keep breaking spokes I would replace all of them.

When you replace them pay special attention to developing even tension around the wheel. My guess is that the tension was not high enough to keep the spokes from going slack during riding. The movement that followed allowed the spoke to fatigue which caused the broken spokes. It is possible that there was uneven tension, and that those spokes are the ones that were loose enough to give up. In that case you won’t really see any more problems down the road. On the other hand, if it was just a low tension wheel you will probably be seeing the rest of them break before too long.

The crank is a real head scratcher. The newer Coker hub is a hardened spindle, and it came with aluminum cranks. With your gear I really don’t think the cranks could have done damage to the hub.

I would put a film of grease on the flats of the spindle, then install like normal. After a few rides tighten the crank bolts a bit, and you should be good to go. After initial installation it is normal for the crank to work itself onto the taper a bit, and that has the effect of the bolt feeling looser. If you don’t snug up the bolt to take up the slack it can eventually start to vibrate out, and then the crank starts to creep back off of the taper. This can cause the loose cranks you described. You shouldn’t need to tighten them again after that.

JimT showed a picture of the 1st generation Big One frame; chrome plated steel, identical to an inexpensive Taiwanese uni frame from the 90s, only taller. 2nd generation Big One is painted silver, has a very short head tube, and a black double-bolt clamp. Also the 1st gen had the narrow axles (like a regular small-wheeled uni), and the 2nd gen had the wide axle.

Then there was the V2, with a black, 4-legged frame. Also known as the Squid (not Coker’s name for it). A super-burly frame that stands out, but might hit your knees if you aren’t tall. I have one of those frames if anyone wants to buy it – make an offer!

Somewhere I have more pictures of the 2nd gen Coker Big One I had, but I couldn’t figure out where! Here’s one, from the hardest Muni race I ever did; 2 laps of a 12.5 mile course with plenty of climbing…

Well said, Sharifyar2!

I was googling to see if I could find one like mine because I didn’t remember it being so chrome-y, and found Jacob’s post when he was selling it, stating that it was aluminium :wink: