Anybody tried one on a uni? Seriously considering one for a superlight muni, but not sure if it’s strong enough even for my mostly wheel on the ground style (and how much width I’ll lose over a typical uni rim). Though I guess it’s not much narrower and lighter than than the Dartmoor Raider some are using - and given the design may give just as wide a tyre footprint and be just as strong.
Id say try it!
At 28c and 545g in a 700c/29", the Stans are not any lighter than other brands and probably not any stronger. Standard muni and trials rims are 42mm and 47mm, so 28c is quite a bit narrower. Max tire width is 1.5-2 x the rim width, so ~50mm or so, which equates to a 2" tire. You could get by with 2.1-2.25, but a 2.5 would be too wide and likely come off.
Nimbus Stealth 2 29" is 900gm, KH XC 29" is 800gm, so a 500-600gm rim would be a nice weight loss diet and probably plenty strong if you were running a light weight tire like a Racing Ralph HS 425 2.1 (495gm)or 2.25 (535gm, Snakeskin version)
One of the ways they make the rim lighter is by removing the brake sidewall, so the lightest rims will be disc only; that and make the rim narrower…
You might try looking at rim reviews on MTBR.
Tubeless will net you 50-100gm reduction in weight, so be sure and get a tubeless ready rim that has a good bead hook.
Look for rims that are wide 30-32mm, no eyelets (lighter), tubeless ready, 36h, ~600gm.
Use DB or TB spokes, ti if you can afford them, al nips.
The Schwalbe tires are awesome and light, get the snakeskin version for sidewall armor.
Stan’s is selling 29" 36h Flows for $40 now: http://www.notubes.com/Flow-Rims-on-sale-C22.aspx
Plenty of mountain bikes run 2.4 tires on 28mm and narrower rims (my bike’s front wheel has a 2.4 Ardent on a 26mm wide rim) so I don’t really think that is an issue. Personally, I’m hooked on the stability of a wider rim for muni so I don’t mind the extra weight of the 47mm KH rim.
Surly’s new Rabbit Hole 50mm rim will be 700g and is mostly single walled but I’m guessing it’d be strong enough for what most people do on a 29" even though it is 32 hole.
Stan’s is selling 29" 36h Flows for $40 now: http://www.notubes.com/Flow-Rims-on-sale-C22.aspx
Plenty of mountain bikes run 2.4 tires on 28mm and narrower rims (my bike’s front wheel has a 2.4 Ardent on a 26mm wide rim) so I don’t really think that is an issue. Personally, I’m hooked on the stability of a wider rim for muni so I don’t mind the extra weight of the 47mm KH rim.
Surly’s new Eric’s experience with his 50mm single wall 29" rim I’m guessing it’d be strong enough for what most people do on a 29" even though it is 32 hole.
I ride a raider for xc and it is nice and light you have to accept with the rim width you will get fold over if you don’t run a high enough pressure. Other than that it makes a really light wheel that flys up the hills
525g according to the spec I can see - what else is as light as that for that width, as I’ve not come across it? I get that it’s narrower than the rims most people use on unis, but as discussed on here before, the way the hook works on the Stans rims means you get a wider tyre footprint than you might normally on a rim that wide - almost certainly as wide as with the conventional 30-32mm wide rims you recommend. Also regarding tyre sizing, I run 2.1 RRs on my Stans Olympic rims which are only 23.2mm wide (some use 2.25 tyres on those), which is a greater multiple of rim width than a 2.4 would be on a Flow.
Yep - hence the Flow which is designed to be run tubeless with just tape, so an additional weight saving over other rims.
Though of course the reason Flows are on sale is that Stans have come out with the new Flow Ex - not only slightly wider externally at 29.1mm, but they’ve reprofiled the interior so that interior width is now a whopping 25.5mm. That’s wider than the Dartmoor Raider Feisty is using, so should result in an even wider tyre profile - almost certainly wider than with anything other than the super-wide uni rims. I’m glad I waited, as I’m almost certainly going to try building up one of those on a uni when I can get hold of one. The only fly in the ointment is that they still only make 26" ones with 32 holes, somewhat restricting the choice of hubs.
I ride the Raider for DH. Its really nice 
No problems with the rim so far (my tire is a 2.5 Continental Baron). Rode it with 1.3 bar at Unicon Expert-DH.
I still run the 2.4 rubberqueen but was looking at the Baron as well 
I run around that pressure I have never had an issue riding only when I stop and start side hopping like I would do on my trials uni then I get a bit of fold over.
I have every confidence in the rim strength as it is designed for dirt jumping I believe?
You can’t really compare bike use to unicycle use, we stress the tire more, we have more concern with tire profile as it relates to crowning, and we are more sensitive to high pressures since they stiffen the “suspension”.
A wider rim and a good hook will be your best bet. It would be a shame to go to all the trouble of buying the parts and building the wheel, only to find your tire popping/rolling off. If in doubt, go stronger and wider, a nice DH rim or a jump rim, they can still be quite light.
So is this the Raider you speak of : http://dartmoor-bikes.com/hardware/rims/raider
31mm wide, 550gm, 6061, eyelits, designed for DH/FR, disc only, and lots of color choices, sounds nice!
I have an Intense 2.5 DH tire on a Surly LM rim (65mm), the tire sidewall is nearly vertical with the rim sidewall, this gives the tire a nice flat profile, and it rides great!
Now if you’re just building for road and never plan to ride the wheel off road, then I’d go all out and get a tubular 
You do know that taping rims for tubless is the norm, right?
Stans come taped, that’s the only difference from other rims, though I think all tubless ready rims come taped. I have a big roll of tape, enough for ten rims, got it cheap, works perfect for the Stealth 2.
The old style was to use a rim strip that had a valve attached, then you taped the edges of the strip to the rim. The newer style is to use tape and a nutted valve, this is what I used on my 36er, though I chose to use an automotive shraeder styled valve.