Recently, I just purchased the Nimbus Oracle 24’’. I absolutely love it. Not only does it have my favorite tire, the Wildlife Duro 3’’, it also prides itself with the Bengal Disc Brake. All together, the uni offers a nice smooth ride with great handling, especially for the technical trails I ride on. However, I have been having trouble adjusting the brake so it will not rub the rotor. I’ve tried everything I could, and it seems maybe the rotor is out of aline or is bent, but that shouldn’t be the case since this has been occuring right out of the box. Any ideas? Please feel free to contemplate. Thanks.
Try loosening off the rotor and re-tighten it evenly. You should tight the bolts diagonally to stop stress or distortion.
Is this a major rub or just a little rasping here and there? If just a slight rub sound:
I had the same problem with my new Oregon, and thanks to advice from this forum it was solved. Main tip was: ride the uni down some long slopes / hills, running the brake to let the pads seat in. They need to build up a decent residue on the rotor surface to. Also don’t touch the rotor surface as oils from your hands can’t mess with the brake pads.
I also tried a cheat method of flipping the uni onto its saddle, and spinning the wheel by hand and lightly applying the brake… But still a good few rides using the brake will sort it out I should say…
If you keep hearing the rub a few months down the line then I guess your LBS could check if the rotor needs aligning.
I took my Oregon down her first steep DH recently, and I can see now why you want your pads to brake in. All went very well, but you could feel the rotor ’ warming into’ the process. Now it has a really decent surface coating now, and although there is still a faint rasping sound, it has definitely helped with braking. Must do some more DH soon.
Hope this helps,
Happy riding!
M.B.
I tried that. It only rubs in one place, which is somewhat frustrating. I even went the route of loosening the brake, then tightening the screws evenly while holding the brake lever in to self-adjust/self-align with the rotor. I’ll have to try it again!
Perfect! Just what I wanted to hear. I have been having the same occurence that you had with your Oregon. It’s just a slight rasping sound every 3/4 turn of the rotor. I guess it’s not too big of a deal, I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t setting things up incorrectly. Time to go DH to warm those brake pads up!
Setting brake pads by breaking on hills - good one.
You can also try adjust caliper position. It helped me on MTB.
Try untight caliper mounting bolts and adjust position during rotating the wheel.
Some times youcan loose mounting bolts (so caliper moveing freely) then grab break lever and tight mounting bolts at the same time.
One tip - do not brake when your uni is upside down. It can make you bleed your brakes after while due to air in work cylinders.
Rotors get knocked and get bent look carefully at the point it rubs to see which pad it is rubbing on by looking down through the caliper then at that point on the rotor either push or pull the rotor braking surface away from the side it was rubbing very slightly by 5 mm or so and it will spring back but be a little further over. Rotate the wheel to see how much it still rubs (if at all) then do it again until it is true. Take your time until you get it perfect.
You will knock it riding or putting it in the car so it is worth learning to true a rotor.
Another issue can be the caliper mount and or adaptor faces not being square causing the caliper to not run exactly parallel to the rotor leaving no tolerance to prevent any rubbing. This is harder to sort as you need to face the offending surfaces to make the square. There is a tool for bikes for this but not unis, you would have to use your eye or a DTI to work out what to file down.
The main reason I use shimano brakes is they have a dual cam action to hold the pads far away from the rotor to stop rubbing
Those Shamino brakes sound like a stellar idea. Seems common sense to have the brake pads further from the rotor while still allowing the pads to brake efficiently. I’ll have to look in to them. Thanks everyone for the help. I’m trying all the suggested methods as we speak!
I am sure with a bit of rotor tweaking you can get yours ruining fine it would be a bit extreme to replace the brake.
I am sure a local bike shop will true your rotor and align your caliper for £5-10, if you buy something else from them they may do it for free if they are nice 
If you do change them look for the “Servo Wave” which is on the STX, XT and XTR groupsets
Oh and nice MUni 
Feisty, thanks. I absolutely love the Oracle. I am so glad I went this route with uying it. However, it looks like you have quite a collection of unicycles yourself! How long have you been riding?
Only 11 months but I took to it very quickly and came from 20 years of MTB riding.
It gets addictive very quickly so be prepared to start adding to your Uni collection 
I started on a 24" and progressed to 26" then 29" and now I have almost built my 36" as the large wheels roll so well and are a lot faster. I have recently built another 24" to do all my Urban riding, Trials and MUni with my 29er and soon to be 36e for XC and road riding
It is a fantastic sport and has the best community you will lever come across, there are some amazingly skilled and knowledgeable people on here who are always happy to help, not to mention the main manufacturers Roger (UDC), Kris Holms etc are on here as well. What other sport do you get to talk to the top riders and manufacturers directly?
You’re exactly right! I started riding August 2011, but I really have only been riding seriously for about a year just like you since I was out for five months from knee surgery. But, I agree! I feel so lucky to have found a sport that has such a strong and supportive community/manufacturers/professionals! Once I save up some more, I’ll be expanding my collection! Honestly, I am real stoked to go to NAUCC this year because it is in my home state, Pennsylvania!
I “NEED” a Mountian Uni
Not sure if this is the right place for this question but I did not want to start a new thread. I have been coveting a 24” Oracle Mountain uni for quite a while and with the 25% savings with the discount code CYBER25 I have decided to go for it. Is it worth the extra $65 for the KH Spirit ISIS 137/165mm cranks. The trails I will be on are fairly tight and hilly here in Missouri. I was also going to get the KH street saddle for an extra $25. That is what I have on my equinox street uni and I like it. They also offer a KH free ride for the same price but I am not sure of the difference between them.
I want to pop on it by tomorrow so I will get it in as soon as possible. Santa is coming early this year (had to let the wife get a new sewing machine, good trade). 
Any advice or comments will be greatly appreciated.
Just my opinion, but I think 165s would be way long for a 24". I’ve been riding 160s on my 26" muni for a while, but they’re too long and I’m about to switch back to 150s. But it’s all a matter of personal preference.
A friend of mine bought an Oracle 24 with disc brake, and it’s really nice. He didn’t get the Spirit cranks, though, it’s got the inboard-mounted disc.
I agree with LanceB that 165’s are too long for a 24. It wasn’t too long ago that 26 was an oddball size, and everyone was riding 24 w/165’s. Pedal hits were fairly common, and it wasn’t long before 150 took over as the defacto standard.
I can’t see cranks shorter than 140 being too useful on a MUni either, so if I were you I would get 140 or 150 and stick with the single hole.
Enjoy the Oracle!
150’s are what they come with standard so I would save the $65 and spend it on some tools like a crank puller so I can start rotating my cranks. They have several kinds so I am not sure what to get. I was going to call UDC in the morning but advice here would be great. At 25% off I am going to fill my wish list a little.
I got this one, and it works fine for either ISIS or cotterless (I have both kinds).
Cheers!
I haven’t tried muni yet. Stupid question … how/why does a pedal strike happen? While mounting? Knock on wood, I’ve never had a pedal hit me in the shin.
I’d love to get a 26" Oracle and try muni. Those come with 165mm cranks which seems a bit long. My 29" Oracle has 150mm cranks.
The longer your cranks the closer the pedals are to the ground. Larger wheels can accommodate longer cranks because there is a larger offset between the tire diameter and the pedal circle of the cranks.
Pedal strike happens when you get too close to the side of the trail, or if the trail is really skinny through logs or rocks or whatever and your pedals aren’t in the right place.
Feel free to join a SAURs ride at Duthie sometime. Noli and I have extra munis you could borrow. I think you’ll want to try a 24" before considering a 26", but you can definitely try both.