Nimbus Nightrider 36 Cotterless??

i noticed the nightrider is cotterless would that affect it in anyway i no when i had my cotterless unicycle i went threw like 2 pairs of cranks fast

so idk what i want to get…if i got a 29" with 114 or 100mm cranks would i be able to go as fast as the 36 with 125mm’s on it?

They make an ISIS version.

I know but its a lot more and so I wouldn’t be able to get the
T7 handle

I’ve had the square taper version of the Nightrider since July and my cranks are still perfectly tight and straight; no stripping or any damage. I purchased mine a little while before the ISIS version came out… and I would take that over a T7 handle if I had waited. Maybe you can get both if you save up a little longer.

a good square taper hub should be able to take a reasonable amount of abuse without failing. As you’re not going to be hopping and dropping on it, the hub will last well, mine has. The important thing with square taper is to keep them well maintained, keep the cranks tight, make sure they’re installed properly.

And no, a 29er with super short cranks would be hard pressed to obtain the same average speeds over a journey as a coker with normalish cranks.

You do not need ISIS cranks on a 36er, it is not like you will be doing insane drops and severe offroading. I use square taper and they haven’t shown even the slightest signs of breaking.

cool then ill prob get the square tape and the t7 and if it breaks at sompoint ill just have to buy the isis hub

but what size cranks should i get its flat with a few small hills (really small) so i was thinking i would get the 125 to be even and get the 114 later down the road

Well the Nimbus frame for a square taper hub has holders for 40mm bearings and an ISIS hub uses 42mm. Also I’m not sure about bearing spacing. Anyway, you would have to modify your frame if you wanted to change hub types.

I’ve had my 36er for just over a month now, and I am running on 127mm prowheel cranks with ease going up and down quite steep hills, considering I have never rode a 36 before, so I do not see 114mm being a problem with just small hills. All I can say is have fun overtaking confused bikers

lol will do…

and im still thinking if i have to pay ill get the square taper if i have to pay by
my self but if my family chips in at christmas then ill get the pro (fingers crossed x)

Which 36 are you planning on getting? The purple Nightrider, or the purple Nightrider Pro? If you ever plan on getting brakes, you need to go with the pro, otherwise it’ll cost you another $115 to upgrade to the rim with the braking surface later on.

I recently got a Nightrider, but because I planned on getting a brake, I went with the Pro. Then I saw the price for the ISIS Pro (only $25 more!) and went with that. So I needed the braking surface and for only $25 more I got an ISIS hub to go with that. Plus, it’s Cranberry red, and I like red.

Remember, this is a 36" that you plan on having for a very long time, so you might want to get something that you know will survive (almost) whatever you throw at it.

And just to clarify, I LOVE my Nmbus Nightrider Pro ISIS, and I’m very hapy that I went with that over any others.

You don’t need a machined brake surface to use a break but it does work better than breaking on a painted rim. I removed the powder-coat from the breaking surface of my airfoil rim using sand paper and it was a huge improvement.

Don’t be scared to do a little modifying to improve a product.

Until recently practically all 36ers were cotterless most people never have a problem with their cranks.

Probably 90% of the unicycles at RTL were cotterless.

How do the Nightrider Pro and the Coker (either version) compare? I know there is a lot of older discussion, but I have not run across much about the newer models. (It sounds like you are not considering the Coker brand. Is the Nimbus brand better at this point?)

As for what to buy, my 12yr old son got a Coker in Jan and has only ridden it maybe 8 times because the left crank keeps coming loose. Still trying to resolve. The square taper spindle may be ok but the bolt into a threaded spindle does not appear as solid as a threaded spindle with nut. The Coker has the former and therefore has less support and more flex contributing to the unthreading of the left crank bolt. Of course using a RH thread on the left side was a poor design choice as well, thats why the left pedal is a LH thread. Go for the ISIS hub.

Personally I prefer a bolt into a threaded spindle over a threaded spindle with nut. the bolt will have more thread holding it in place and the threads are protected. I had a hub with a bolt on threaded spindle system and had many more problems with it, The threads eventually got wrecked and the hub was toast. Almost all hubs now use a bolt instead of a nut.

To get the crank to stay on take it off, clean it up good, put a little grease on it and put it back on the crank. Sandwich the unicycle between two pieces of wood to protect the cranks and give it a few good whacks with a hammer right over the hub. This should push the crank further onto the hub deforming it a bit to have a better bind.

Put the bolt in a tighten it up. You can put a bit of blue lock-tight on the threads for extra security. Check the tightness of the other side incase it moved when you hit it with the hammer. Hope that helps.

Happy trials!

how well would a KH29 be for muni ? just wondering because i think a 24 or 26 would be a little to slow :stuck_out_tongue:

Depends on what you mean by “muni.” Lots of people differentiate between “muni” and “xc” (cross country) riding. If you’re not on really rocky, rooty, steep terrain, the 29er’s a great choice. You get more speed, but less cushion due to the smaller tire widths available in the 29er size (compared to 24 or 26). I ride my 29er more of the time than my 24, but mostly because that’s what my buddy likes to ride most and I’d be too slow on the 24. We go on almost any trail with the 29ers, but I find I have to walk some uphills that I would ride on the 24, and can’t make it through some rougher technical sections that I’ve ridden many times on the smaller wheel. If you have any riding buddies with different wheel sizes you could try out, that would be the way to figure out what works best for you.