The tire is extra, looks like a High Roller I 2.5"
Got any dimensions on that baby?
Can you take a couple shots in line with the tire to show the cross section?
How does the tire feel “in hand” compared to the Duro 3"?
I’m riding a Savage Racing 2.6" right now, it’s like a Duro Jr. Same dimensions as the Ardent 2.4, but more rubber and a nicer ride; but at a cost of 1485gm!!
Yes, it is a Maxxis HighRoller 26x2.5 in the 3C compound. I ordered it on the recommendation from the master himself. He said he was using it on his GUni now and might consider making it standard on future KH 26ers. I almost bought an Ardent but heard rumors of a high center line which I don’t think the HighRoller (despite it’s name) suffers from though I don’t really have much to compare it to other than the 3" Duro that came standard on the Oracle. I probably switched out too soon (after only 2 rides) because I really enjoyed the Duro at low (10-12 psi) pressures. That thing rolled over roots like a hovercraft! The HighRoller requires more (18-20psi) pressure to avoid rim damage. It changes your whole riding style (rolling versus hopping)! One thing I can say. My Oracle is MUCH lighter (rides and handles that way) now even with the switch to heavier Moment cranks and Drillium pedals. Here is a pic from the Maxxis website to show the cross section. I’ll get the measurements later and post a pic of it side to side with the now dismounted Duro.
KH26 from June will use Maxxis HighRoller 26x2.5 single ply and not 3C version (I got it from Kris by Email, so I bough one from Chainreaction)
24" Oracle
I’ve had the new 24" Oracle for a few weeks now. Overall impression: Love it! My first muni was the Nimbus 26er.
First the disk brake, as that is one of the main selling points for UDC. I heard KH is coming out with a disk model, but it will be outside the frame. I guess he knows what he’s doing, but I prefer an inside the fork design. There was a short break-in period, with a better feel to the brake after several rides. Not a surprise as I had the same experience on my MTB. The main thing I liked right away over the Magura rim brake on the 26er was the difference in pitch, since the brake is near the hub. And since I made the switch from the heavier 26, I am also finding I use the brake a lot less often, which is actually cool (to me anyway). My lever is modified so it does have the KH Spooner lever, which frankly, I wouldn’t want to be without.
I am in So CA - LA area - so our rides usually include anywhere from 500’ to 2000’ or more of climbing with the top elevations often reaching or exceeding 3,000’. The climbs usually cover a couple of grinding miles that average a 3-8% grade, but will always include some 20% or steeper sections. Which is mainly why I purchased the 24". While the less vertical sections are do-able for me on the 26er, I am small and weigh 130 lbs, so the climbs are many times easier on the significantly lighter and smaller 24". I started with 150mm cranks, but switched to KH Double Hole Moment 165/137mm (165mm setting) and won’t be changing back anytime soon. We also ride up some of the single track and the Oracle really shines there too. Overall, I am cleaning uphill sections that just weren’t happening on the 26er, so it’s all grins.
I expected I would prefer the 26er on the descents, and for pure speed, of course do. But so far the nimbleness of the 24" outweighs the superior roll-over and speed difference of the 26". I am learning the more technical riding and really appreciate the lighter ride on the rocky single track descents. And for the really long non-technical descents I may come across, I can always switch to the 137mm hole on the cranks.
Nimbus did a great job on the design. While Orange is NOT my favorite color, I have come around and really appreciate the look of the cycle, and it’s getting a lot of compliments. My legs (and pads) are already appreciating the round crown versus the square on the Nimbus muni. And even with adding about 7 ounces of Slime to the 3" Duro tire the ride feels peppy.
It will be interesting to see what, if any modifications they make to future editions. The first I would like to see would be change of lever to accommodate the Spooner. Great cycle and value.
2mtnuni : Thanks for info about this uni, please post more and larger photos;) I really like this colour and I hope Nimbus will release 26" in other colours than red - orange, yellow or green … it would be great.
They are offering that rim on a custom street 26 in gold 
Sizing to fit the person, 24" is great for small folks, the 26" is bigger but I have a lot of height and weight on you, so for me the 26" is just right
I ride a 29" on tech stuff at times, it’s a big un, probably comparable with how you feel on a 26" 
165’s on a 24"?
Man, that’s some long cranks, pedal strike has got to be a pita!
Try going shorter over time, I find the long cranks are an overkill on smaller wheels, even on a 26" I run 150’s, but for the 29/36 it’s 165’s for muni.
Another thought: Were the 150’s Ventures or Moments? The wider Q factor on Moments provide some additional leverage, so a shorter Moment might feel better.
I’ll snap some more pics soon. Speaking with folks at UDC, think they are keeping the colors as is for now, Black/Orange for 24"…Black/Red for 26".
FYI…I’ve had ZERO pedal strike. The crank length totally depends on the terrain and type of riding you do. Agreed, the longer cranks would be overkill if it weren’t for the steepness of our terrain.
My group has recently been joined by one guy with massive skills. He’s even ridden with “the man” himself…KH, both here in So CA and in BC. His main cycle is 24" with 170mm cranks…and no brake! The steepness of the climbs and descents just wouldn’t be possible, especially without a brake, on the shorter cranks.
You don’t need long cranks to run steep stuff, even “the man” doesn’t use 165’s on a 24; he may not use 165’s on anything… I know more core riders who use short cranks than those who use long cranks. Terry “unigeezer” uses nothing longer than a 150 and I’m pretty sure he’s core.
This is an age old debate, so I’ll try not to beleagure the point, but suffice to say that I was on the long crank side until last year, made the same arguments as you’re making, then I pushed myself to learn short cranks and now I can ride both. Now I don’t find that I need long cranks for anything but steep climbing, even then I can do without most of the time. If anything, it’s wheel size that determines rideability, since your center of balance gets higher as the wheel gets bigger.
Brakes make long cranks on downhills unnecessary, and since this is the Oracle disc brake muni thread, I would suggest to folks that they run 135-150mm on the 24/26, this will improve flow and reduce pedal strike. The reason the Oracles are outfitted with longer cranks is because Josh likes long crank 
I had two yesterday, one root, one rock, you may need to ride harder 
Mine I rode today for the 1st time
All KH except Oracle hub and D-Brake from Nimbus
Spokes : DT Swiss 2mm (14G) 258mm on left side / 260mm on right side
Tyre : Maxxis High Roller DH Tyre - Single Ply - 26 x 2.5 - MaxxPro 60a (the same as KH26 from June), need to adjust pressure somewhere between 1.8 and 2.5 bar
Brake : Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brake 2009 - Front Post Mount 160mm
Cranks : Moment 125/150mm
Quick release clamp : Hope blue
Pedals : Wellgo MG1 Blue
I struggled with the decision of what compound to get on my Maxxis HighRoller. I ended up with the 3C compound but might opt for the MaxxPro compound on my next Maxxis tire. We will see how the 3C wears. Any insight on which Maxxis compound is best for MUni is welcome. I will say my LBS said “Wow, that is one sticky compound!”.
What follows is excerpts from a review over blister-gear that has me second guessing my choice of 3C.
I looked at the sideknobs on the tire. On one side, the knobs were showing stretch marks. This happens somewhat quickly on all soft compound tires, but this was only in one section of the tire and only on one side. Plus they’d only seen about 6 runs up to this point. I don’t know if I had this one solitary crash because of it, but I started bending the knobs of the 3C front tire over with my fingers. They definitely fold over easier than the 2.5 3C versions I’d had in the past. Just for fun, I busted out my calipers….
The width of the sideknobs on the new 2.4 High Roller 2 are about 6.4mm and 6.7mm at the center. The width of the knobs on the old 2.5 High Roller are about 5.7mm and 8.0mm. That 5.7mm knob on the old ones is supported by two ribs that measure about 9.5mm and 8.0mm. Look at the blue knob C in the diagram. The ribs are much larger on the old tread. And the pink knob D is much smaller on the new one. I’m not dumb enough to go crazy about this just because I blew a turn, but the trend continued for the next few weeks of riding these things—not crashing, but certainly cutting completely loose far easier than on the old tread design. These sideknobs not only initiate a drift easier, they just give up sooner all together.
I sincerely wish that Maxxis had kept the thickness of the old sideknobs. The change in angles and the ‘fuse’ knob would still achieve the more gradual drifting, but both the drift and the ‘normal’ cornering would have been better supported. Keep in mind that I do hold Maxxis to a higher standard because they are one of the few companies that don’t put out a whole lot of tires that have knob shapes working against one another. Literally every single tire company out there does something glaringly stupid even in the tires they sell the most. Maxxis, however, has done a good job the last few years of at least putting out tires that are consistent in their goals within an individual tread design (the old High Roller with its dumb braking edge is around 10 years old). The Minion DHR tires suck, but at least they don’t have knobs that send your tire in the opposite direction you’re leaning the bike.
I’d say the High Roller 2 corners and drifts better than 99% of what’s out there, and brakes with some of the best. But in a 3C compound, they could have made the sideknobs better. The thinner knob design has proven to accelerate sideknob wear AND compromise the one single thing the old High Roller was so exceptional at: grabbing like a rail and holding your wheels there.
I’ll be putting the 60d/Maxxpro tire on the front of my bike fairly soon, with the expectation that the sideknob support will be better. But I know the braking will suffer, and the general compliance over rocks and other potentially slippery bits won’t be as good as the 3C version. I also know that I won’t be buying another 3C version for the front of my DH bike.
Maxxis has been pretty good about letting their better DH tread designs filter down to the smaller sizes, and I’ve happily run the old 2.35 tires on my trail bikes. I’d be surprised if they released a 60d compound smaller version that I didn’t like on my smaller bike. The tread is really good. The sideknobs in soft compounds could be better.
Tires, tires, we love tires 
I have quite a collection of tires, 26 and 29, my fav is the Ardent, but lately I have been riding a 26 x 2.6 Arrow Racing Savage, it’s like a smaller version of the Duro Leopard, 40d rubber, so fairly sticky, got it off Ebay for $40.
It is not really all that big, same width as the Ardent 2.4/2.6, maybe a slightly shorter height, but it has way more sidewall so I can run lower pressures without getting rim shots. It weighs 1400gm, so like a Duro Leopard it is heavy, but I can’t really complain about the ride quality and since my 26 is my tech muni, it’s all good.
I rode the 26 hard yesterday, found that I was missing the speed and tracking of my 29er, though the 26 sure is good on log rollovers and drops
That sucks:( I don’t like this red rim. Maybe next season will be some new colour variants.
Make your custom as I did
I have not this kind of hard core skills - painting rims, welding etc 
Just buy another rim (any 36 hole will do, like the dartmoor), get the spare parts (hub and frame) and go to your lbs and let them build the wheel if you dont want to do it yourself?
Sure, it’s an option but I’d like to buy it as “original set” 
I am sure UDC will build customise your Uni however you want, have a chat with them and I am sure they will build you something that is exactly as you want it
My Dartmoore Raider is running a treat even doing drops on it 
I run 1.45 bar for xc and 1.7 doing MUni/drops on the 2.4 Conti Rubber Queen with no issue despite the “narrow” rim (I am used to 21mm rims on my MTB so it is still wide to me :p)
Did the tire fold over during your rides? Im running around 1.8 till 2 bar and it did not happen to me till now… big test will follow in one week in croatia during the CUT-event First big DH-race this year!
I don’t do massive side hopes or anything but I was doing lots of tight rooty singletrack that required lots of tight twisting and the tyre felt fine My last ride was muddy XC and I ran at 1.45bar which felt a lot more comfortable, and even hitting lots of big rocks I didn’t have any rim strikes as that Conti if very tall for a 2.4 (and even more so on a narrower rim).
I wouldn’t want to do drops etc at that psi so would run 1.7 which was coping with 1 and a bit foot drops fine even with my ham fisted landings 
I honestly find this set up feels more stable than my 24x3 Duro on a 42mm Ninmus muni rim at 1 bar which was super floaty but did feel a bit too squishy laterally