I’ve been riding this since 2009, it’s been through broken spokes and rebuilds. The wheel is actually pretty straight and true, but I’m now having an issue with the new tire I installed clearing the frame. It’s within 1-3mm (guestimating). It’s always been a little lopsided, and I’ve known that since I picked it up. I love her for it.
I was wondering if anybody knew a frame builder that may be able to move those bars and give me more clearance, and perhaps weld an extra support bar between the two… would you call them seatstays?
Any other solutions are welcome. The tire itself isn’t rubbing, but the little nubs on the tire do rub, which is maybe a minor annoyance… and no, I’m not lopping them all off with a knife. : P They come off after a little while.
Personally I think the easiest way would be to re-dish the wheel. Slightly loosen the spokes on the side that rubs and slightly tighten the spokes on the other side to center it up. Something a bike shop can easily do if you’re not comfortable doing it yourself. If that’s not enough, then you’re probably looking at a frame mod.
I’ve only built one wheel. Tried to take it back to the shop that built this one but they basically said “eh, close enough” . . . probably will end up just taking it to another shop.
There’s a possibility that the frame itself is out of alignment.
There are two possible solutions, you could dish the wheel over (my preference) or you could cut a strip or two of pop can and put it between the bearing and frame to shim it up on the close side.
Hope that made sense.
Really, it would be easy to loosen one side of spokes a quarter turn and tight the other side the same. If it’s a straight properly tensioned wheel, it should stay that way.
Hey Justin,
From that top picture, I’m surprised how low the right connecting bar was welded.
I have access to shop equipment. I could either bend that bar slightly, which I don’t think would put the frame askew. Or I could re-weld the lower attach point. Either way, the paint would be destroyed in those spots. From your signature, I assume it is a steel frame.
That’s a pretty tight fit. I don’t know how flexy those frame are, compared to other, similar designs. My friend has what I think is one of those frames on a geared 36", but when you pedal hard you can still get rub even without such a tight clearance. But I don’t know what your options are otherwise if you stick with that frame and tire combo. That’s the best 36" tire for Road riding, IMHO. I don’t know if it’s bad for your bearings, but you could also try shimming up the bearings on both sides, but with an extra slice of aluminum on the side that’s tight. Not sure if that will make enough difference though. Your best bet might be to have the frame customized.
Thanks for all the suggestions. It’s always been pretty flexy. You can definitely feel it waggle when you’re pushing up a hill. I actually like that feel. Probably because it’s what I’ve always ridden, and I just got used to it. I have read a few posts a while back where people were having trouble with brakes rubbing, but not the frame. I usually use a shorty handlebar, so maybe I don’t flex it that much.
lol, is Hunter still building frames? maybe they could match the paint color and nobody would notice it’s not a nimbus anymore. : P
I’ll try dishing it back a little before trying frame mods. I wonder if that tire casing has changed at all. I’ve always ridden the nightrider tires, and never remember it being that close.
Thanks Grizbach. : ) I’m definitely willing to pony up for any work I need done to it. I don’t think I’d want to bend it, but re-welding sounds like the ticket. It is steel, but I’m not sure what type, and if it needs to be heat-treated again after welding. We’re getting into winter shortly, so I won’t be riding it as much as the fat tire anyway. I’d have to just match the paint the best I can, or just get some clear-coat thrown over it and wear it as a badge of honor.
I don’t know if Hunter is still a frame-maker but his frames were essentially just a flexy, being very similar in design and materials. Every time a flexy frame flexes, you lose energy that could have gone into drive power. Like wearing shoes with soft soles (only not as much). If you’re not too attached to the shape of that frame, I’d recommend something stiffer.
I contacted Rick Hunter recently about modifying one of his own uni frames, but he said he’s not doing unicycle projects anymore. No time. His bike lead times are a year!
Not the hunter I rode. I got to ride one of the later models when he added the cross beam across the side and it was incredibly stiff. The bars are a much larger diameter than the nimbus version. It was even more stiff than a KH I feel. Heavy though. Definitely one of the most beautifully crafted machines I’ve ever seen. I understand all about frame flex. I also ride a long haul trucker, which is very stiff if not loaded, but loaded is a big wet noodle. The flex in the nightrider frame is all lateral and twisting. The amount of power loss really is quite minimal, and in the end, I find it more comfy to ride. . . I ride in tennis shoes as well though. : P I am quite attached to this particular frame. I don’t run a brake, so I do realize I could just go grab an oracle frame and slap it on, but I’d like to avoid that if possible.
It’s always been pretty flexy. You can definitely feel it waggle when you’re pushing up a hill. I actually like that feel. Probably because it’s what I’ve always ridden, and I just got used to it. I have read a few posts a while back where people were having trouble with brakes rubbing, but not the frame. I usually use a shorty handlebar, so maybe I don’t flex it that much.