Thanks for the link. I read that whole thread and you were right there is a lot of info… I’m learning new stuff from you guys everyday.
Today I was able to turn right pretty good but oddly not left. Before I was only able to turn left. I practiced freemounting and was about 40% success which is way better than last time when I was about 1%. I also went backward (accidentally) about 5 pedal strokes while practicing freemounting. It was a cool feeling but I couldn’t replicate it. Still a lot of work to go before I hit the easy trails.
One more question, what does Q mean? I’ve been reading a lot of different threads and have come across people mentioning Q issues etc. If I didn’t ask what UPD meant I’d still be wondering. Someone should make a unicycle lingo dictionary for us newbies.
Q-Factor
I think there’s a mathematical formula or something, which I don’t know off hand.
But “Q-Factor” is a measure of how much horzontal spread the cranks have. i.e. if the cranks are completely straight there is zero Q-Factor. Many cranks like the KH Spirits that are designed to clear an external disc brake have higher Q-factor, meaning they push the pedal further out.
Q-Factor is mostly personal preference. In general, low Q-factor is preferred for distance and fast spinning as it’s held to reduce side-to-side body movement.
More Q-Factor may give you more leverage for climbing or for trails/muni. Some people even add pedal extenders that then have the same basic effect as high Q-factor: moving the pedals further out.
Sounds like you’re doing great… It’s very addicting and the good news is that (in my opinion) unlike many sports that are challenging at first and then become easy and progressively harder to improve and/or find new challenges (and super-expensive), with unicycling it is easy to continually improve and find new challenges (without going broke): I’ve been riding almost 8 years, about 4 years a lot and I’ve yet to have a ride where I wasn’t challenged and I didn’t improve greatly! That’s a really awesome!!
In the biking world it is the combined width of the bottom bracket and the flair of the cranks.
Apparently the term originated from “Quack Factor” since ducks walk with a wide gate. Wide pedal position? = High Quack Factor 
In unicycling we generally ignore the axle length as they are pretty universal and talk of added Q. The KH Spirit cranks flair out 12mm more on each side than the Nimbus Venture cranks which are considered “Zero Q”.
We say that the Spirit cranks have 12mm of Q-factor, they widen your total pedal stance by 24mm.
Whether “narrow is better for road, and wider is better for MUni” is up for debate. I have tried zero Q cranks on standard hubs all the way to moderate Q on superwide hubs and found that moderate Q (10-14mm) works best for me on standard (100mm) hubs for all situations. Fortunately for me zero-Q cranks on a superwide (125mm) hub has the same foot placement so I can be comfortable riding both standards. I really think it has more to do with hip width than riding styles. Once you find the width that works well for you I would stick with it regardless of terrain.
I’ve given up on ever using something to lean on and mount. I was about 40% success at freemounting, but now I’m about 85%. When I’m unsuccessfull it’s usually due to not getting my foot properly placed on the pedal and it screws me up. I am getting much better adjusting my feet on the fly though but not perfect. I think I still need to practice putting my weight on the seat, my legs start burning pretty good while only going about 100 yards. I think I need a lot more saddle time. Weather here isn’t cooperating too good. I try to get at least 30-60 minutes riding a day.