Newbie questions:

Hey all,
I’ve just ordered my first muni, having killed my “learner” cycle by taking it off road, and I’m wondering what seat heights people recommend. I’m used to a higher seat height from my biking days, but I’ve been lowering it for off-road/hopping. Is there a general rule about seat height?
2nd: What kind of clothing do people recommend? I’ve had shorts ride up on me, leaving nasty bruises (and when I had my savage seat, bloody scrapes), and I’ve worn through the crotch of one pair of shorts. For distance riding I’ve iron on patches for the worn out shorts which work pretty well…

Get yourself some sixsixone shin protections (i don’t know the real name in english) that’s super important for offroad (i think also for street/trial)

OK you need
a kh seat probli the best muni saddle with out messing around with air conversions!
a helmet
661 4x4’s(bmx leg armour)
and some full fingered biking gloves
and ya most people ride with the saddle low less damage that way;) plus you can hop much higher!
AND THE MOST IMPORTANT THING ABOUT MUNI HAS TO BE
ENJOY!!!downhill rocks!
Ben

you might not know what the hell 661’s are so here is a picture and don’t bother with the 04 mod as the are the same i know this is not an american site but it’s the only one i could find ok!
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/viewproduct.asp?category=Body+Armour&ModelID=1951

Equipment

Well, the seat on my muni is a velo padded seat, but that’s gotta be better than the child seat(s) I was using on my old uni. I’m planning on getting the 661’s as soon as my muni comes in, I was gonna order them with my uni but I wasn’t sure about the size. I also need a good set of gloves with wrist protectors, I have a “bad” wrist from a snowboarding fall a few years ago (don’t try a railslide if you’ve no idea what yer doing!)
I’ve already got a bike helmet (that I don’t wear nearly enough for uni). I’ve got a shopping list, as soon as my new uni comes in, I’ll go get some stuff. There’s a shop in town that sells both 661 and unicycles, but they can’t get muni anymore.
Downhill looks awesome… I’ve only tried a little off road (well, more than my uni could handle) and it fscking rocks! Mud Season in New Hampshire too… and winter… it’s all good! Be better when I have a uni that isn’t designed to be ridden on the flat only by a 100lb guy :wink:

shop around for 661’s try erm on in the bike shop but look on the net at one time 661’s were £50 through unicycle.uk.com and £19 through chainreactioncycles.com!!!so i would shop around a bit!I never used to wear a helmet for about 10 months but i had a fall and came very close to doing some serious damage so i got one!pads are a must get them now so you don’t have to sod around once you have got the unicycle i am 5.10 or so and still use smalls i probli should get some more but i want other stuff so they will do for now!
Ben

Seat height is a very personal thing. On the whole I have mine fairly low; most of my riding is off-road, when space between you and the seat is good for soaking up the bumps. With the seat lowered you can throw the unicycle around a bit more when jumping, and off-road you can put a bit of space between you and the seat for absorbing bumps without being bounced out of the seat.

On the other hand by lowering the seat you put more strain on the knees and make your pedalling cycle a bit less efficient. Unicycles for road riding, hockey or riding on flat surfaces tend to have higher seats because you don’t need the “suspension” of being able to stand off the seat.

The “general rule” is so you leg is almost but not quite straight when the pedal is at the bottom. This is probably at the top of the scale, and is only really for when you’re riding around on the flat. Any higher and you won’t be able to reach the pedal at the bottom. How much lower you want it depends on what you’re doing…

Phil

Height and pads

So far I’ve been lucky and managed to catch myself on falls without injuring my wrists, just scraped knees. It actually doesn’t bother me much, except that my day job as a car technician means getting on my knees a lot. I’ve no idea how much they’ll cost in at the shop, but I’ll prolly get them there anyways. They’re friendly guys, and they’ve helped me with both my mountain bike and old unicycle more than once.

Sounds like the general seat rule is the same as for bicycles then :wink: I already know I can’t ride with the seat way up high like that, I ride my uni to school which involves a couple curb drops and potholes, and going home afterwards is almost entirely uphill. I just remember watching “Into The Thunder Dragon” and it looked like when Kris and Nathan dismounted that they were barely dropping off the seat. I didn’t play too much with seat height on my old uni since dropping it was only good for hopping it, and I knew the uni couldn’t handle it for long :wink:

The velo seat is just uan unbranded KH seat without a handle (I think)

Velo

Well, it’s the Nimbus Muni from unicycle.com
http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=745
Which comes with a seat handle. My old seat was a kids seat (3 for $20!) with no handle, so this has to be an improvement :wink:

I think that Phil has described the general rule quite well. I like having the seat reasonably high, because too low is slow and inefficient, and uses different leg muscles. You want your leg to be almost straight when the pedal is at the bottom of a stroke. An airseat and a 3" wide tire makes going offroad better for a higher seat, because where a narrower tire and harder seat would throw you off on a bump, the fat ones absorb the bumps and require less leg shock absorbtion.

Don’t worry about getting shin pads. I have some Kris Holm leg-warmers (leg armour) that I don’t use. I paid a bundle for it, and as soon as I tried them I got way too hot and took them off. Now that winter is coming, I thought I would try them again as leg warmers, and they kept my legs warm but were pretty uncomfortable anyway. Unless you have Snafu pedals with huge pins and fear your shins safety, I think shin pads are not needed.

I have had the same problem of wearing out patches on my inner thighs. It is worst when wearing jeans, which have fat seams and chafe quite badly. Now I have a better seat, my seams don’t wear out as fast, and I use army trousers that have thinner seams. I reckon just wear clothing that you like, and feel comfortable in. Those iron on patches were a good idea! I wouldn’t mind getting some mountainbiking pants sometime that have kevlar inner patches, to prevent wear and tear. If someone could make some unicycle specific pants that would be good too.

Armored Battle-Shorts

I’m mostly looking at the 661’s for knee protection. I’m always crawling on my knees at work (putting lifts under cars and such) so it’s pretty important for them to be un-bloodied.

For the shorts, I just went to Wal-Mart and got patches that match as close as possible. Looks really weird (my dad asked if I was going horse-back riding) but it worked.

For winter riding, I just used my daily cargo pants. Last fall, when it was getting cold, I was sweating like a pig in a t-shirt and shorts, whilst everyone else on campus was bundled up for the arctic. Maybe since I’m better now tho, I won’t be working so hard :wink:

What kind of shoes do people wear? Is there a preference for different styles (ie, Vans for trials/freestyle, steel-toe for muni?)

Re: Newbie questions:

“evil-nick” <evil-nick@NoEmail.Message.Poster.at.Unicyclist.com> writes:

> What kind of shoes do people wear? Is there a preference for different
> styles (ie, Vans for trials/freestyle, steel-toe for muni?)

I just got some 661 Duallys and found they make a huge difference in
traction on aggressively pinned pedals. Bumps at the local BMX track
that used to seem nigh impossible have suddenly become probable - my
success rate is around 50% now, compared to maybe 10% before.

The downside is that it is harder to adjust you feet on the pedals
because the shoes feel glued down. Precise mounts are required in
rough terrain!

I use them for freestyle, too since they offer great ankle padding and
Ive been basking my ankles on the short cranks. That’s actually why I
bought them in the first place.

Ken

I’m not sure about the details but KH had a pair of prototype glove/wristgaurd combo things in Moab. He didn’t say when they would be out but he made it sound like they would be coming along fairly soon. Try checking those out if you can find them anywhere. Otherwise any wrist gaurds you can find at your local skate shop should suffice.

A good rollerblading site that I stumbled onto when looking for helmets, is www.inlinewarehouse.com. They have good deals on wristguards that look to work well.