I want to try this out. It looks really cool and fun. I’ve been browsing around and I am really confused.
What is “splined”?
How do you put breaks on a unicycle?
What do you think is a good starter cycle?
e39m5
You should go to http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=634 Thats what I have except I have the 24" wheel.
i would say start out on a 24" they seem to be the easiest to pedal and most common 
splined means that the are not the square tappered kind of cranks that they shove a circle onto a square to hold it in place splined is when the have individual teeth the lock into each other when you slide it on and tighten it. they are the best.
ah to put breaks on a uni you will have to have one with the proper mouting or make yoour own its really just the same as the front tire of a bike.
and depending on where you live i would say buy one from Darren Bedford i like his cycles the best.
MERCYME, you don’t have the LX, you have the CX
Welcome…
Splined cranks are much stronger than regular square tapered ones. However, unless you are doing drops exceeding a foot or two, it is unlikely that you will destroy even a regular crankset.
To fit brakes onto a uni, it must have brake mounts or have brake mounts installed to the frame, then it’s just like a bike’s brake, typically the handle is attached to a bar that attaches to the seat, allowing you to actuate them as you grip the uni.
The best uni for you to start with, depends on what you want to do with it.
There are unis that are good for just riding and doing tricks…
There are unis that are good for hopping around on stuff with…
There are unis that are able to ride off-road over rough terrain more easily…
There are unis that go really fast
and really big unis, or unis with the wrong number of wheels for extra-crazy unicyclists
I want a uni for just riding for now. What is a good one? Is there a semi-cheap one (150 orless) thats good for riding, tricks, and hops?
e39m5
Buddy you don’t know what you are talking about, I have an LX.
Go on Ebay and get a DX for $150 best bang for you buck, splined to…
Chase
word, that’s a good deal… 
Re: New to Unicycling
Your iniitial impression is accurate.
A splined crank/hub is stronger, if you’re doing heavy-duty mountain or trials riding, but is a bit of overkill otherwise. A regular square-taper cotterless setup is fine for your purposes. Avoid cottered cranks, which attach to the hub with pins that go sideways through the base of the crank. You are unlikely to see these on a new uni, but some old vintage EBay relic might have them.
Your feet are the best brakes for you at this point. Mechanical brakes are used less for stopping the uni than for adding drag to help keep control on steep downhill slopes. It’s for experienced riders who know how to use it, and again is overkill if you don’t need it.
No brand preference here, but in general, here are some things to look for:
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Probably either a 20- or 24-inch wheel to learn on. Personally I think the difference in difficulty is negligible. If you know you want to focus on mostly freestyle tricks, get a 20; for longer distances outside, get a 24, though you’ll probably want a still larger wheel for that after you learn how to ride well. Learning on a larger wheel is more difficult.
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Cotterless cranks. You don’t need splined, and don’t want cottered.
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Avoid the “lollipop” style of bearing holder, which has a stalk that fits inside the fork tube. These are not as durable, as stress on them can crack the ends of the fork tubes. They are ok for learning on, though, and are most often found on cheaper unis, so you can compromise on this if you just want to learn on a tight budget. But that’s really the only reason to have them.
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A flat fork crown, if you are thinking of doing one-footed tricks. Not important otherwise. Many of the less expensive unis have rounded crowns.
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A fork crown with enough clearance to fit the kind of tire that you plan to use. I sold a Miyata that I had a few years ago because I wanted to ride a fatter tire, and it wouldn’t fit into the fork.
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A seat post long enough for your height. Bike-shop 20-inchers commonly come with posts that are way too short for adult riders. The way I always figure this is to just get the longest post available, and hacksaw it if it’s too long.
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A comfortable saddle. What “comfortable” means varies drastically from one person to the next, so it’s hard to recommend one kind over another. The saddle is the second most easily replaced part of the unicycle, though, if you end up not liking the one that you have. A handle on the front of the saddle is a plus. The generic bike-shop unis often come with child-size saddles which are not pleasant experiences for non-child-type people.
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Plastic pedals, especially if you’re riding indoors. Metal ones chew up gym floors as well as your shins. This is the most easily replaced part.
Anything with this set of components should work great for you. Wander through unicycle.com’s catalog and look for something in your price range.
I got my first uni at a garage sale. It was a beat-up round-crown 24 with lollipops and an evil saddle, but I learned on it and rode it happily for quite a while. Well worth the twenty bucks.
Re: New to Unicycling
On Thu, 5 May 2005 02:56:51 -0500, “weeble” wrote:
(several answers to e39m5’s questions)
Weeble, that was a very useful reply. Do you mind if I use some of it
to improve my “Tips for Beginners” web page?
Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
“When it comes to the family jewels, you won’t be having fun until they’re having fun. - Jake D”
Re: Re: New to Unicycling
If you think it useful, go ahead. Edit at will.