New Schlumpf setup

I had been riding my schlumpf with 150’s and the Big Apple since I had gotten it. It was a fine setup, but I was pleasantly suprised at how much better it is now (and the setup I will be riding at the 24hr race)

I ordered a Schwalbe Little Albert knobby tire (29x2.1) from my LBS, put on my machined down 127mm Kooka’s (thanks to everyone who didn’t buy them when I listed them for sale!!!) and my carbon fibre seat.

And the addition I cannot get enough of…those little plastic pedal protectors. These should be on every big wheel unicycle that tends to go flying, just yesterday my bro fell off the schlumpf he was trying to mount, and it would have gone flying if not for these things, they are great!

Here’s pics of the tire and the cranks.





Sorry for your loss, Hans, I’m not gloating!

what kind of cranks go on the schlumph hub then? any squared tapered crank?

btw awesome uni :smiley: damn it i want to ride one of those!

any square tapers go on it, they use a hollow crank bolt to allow for the ‘stick shift’ that the buttons attach to.

it’s a simple square taper setup

i find it easier to shift with the shorter cranks, my ankle seems to be in a better position

although, i typically ride with it shifted up, and don’t really shift it much

unless i’m in the woods, then i ride it shifted down

it’s much easier to shift down, then up

Good point, I never considered that. The last time i tried 127 Schlumpf cranks was Gilby’s, and that was my first time on a Schlumpf, so I have no input about that. Your point seems valid though.

I hope the Q-factor of the cranks are not there to prevent accidental shifting. Although I was out for an hour today and that didn’t seem to be an issue, but i was just cleaning up my winter unicycling legs, not really pushing it too much :slight_smile:

I think not quite any cranks will fit.

Two reasons -

Firstly if the hole in the outside of the crank is too deep, shifting will be made harder.

Secondly, if the back of the crank isn’t round, or is two big a round thing, then I don’t think they’d fit, cos the back of the crank actually goes slightly into the bearing holder (at least on the Schlumpf cranks it does), I think these cranks won’t fit if you look at the back of them.

Also, I might being mental and making things up in my head, but I think you aren’t supposed to put steel cranks on it right? Or can I put my bicycle euros on it?

I ride mine high on road except junctions, cos I don’t like hopping at junctions when I have my laptop in my bag, and idling the schlumpf in high gear is horrible.

Off road, almost always low gear, but there is something really really fun about blasting down easy singletrack in high gear, or bombing down fireroads.

One question that you might have an idea about - the shifter button on my right crank, has some mud or something in the hole in the centre, which means I can’t get the allen key in to unscrew it. Any ideas what I can do to fix it. The button is locked on solid, I can’t unscrew it by holding the other side still. Fortunately it was only the left crank that snapped or else I’d be buggered.


power washer?

exactly what i was about to say

i’m not sure on the best method to undo the buttons without the other one spining, so i took that little tool that goes into the two recesses on the bottom (do you have that? it came with mine in a package)

and i clamped a vise grip (waits for group shudder/groan) to the button on the other side in order to twist it with the tool

Aha, good idea. I wonder where I find one of those… Maybe garages have them or something.


you guys have coin-op car washers over thar?

if you are using a pressure washer be careful you are not blasting crud into your bearings. wrecked a headset on my bike that way…

In addition to the super-small allen wrench that unscrews the center set screw in the shift button, Schlumpf also makes a little black wrench tool that grips the button itself, and rather well I might add.

If the set screw is muddied up, and you have the proprietary button wrench, you might still be able to unscrew the button from the axle thread. The set screw is to set the button in whatever lateral position is good for a given crank arm hole. Some like the button in more, some like it protruding to make it easier to catch on one’s ankle.

Tried it. Problem is that the super-tight button is tighter than the button on the other side, so turning the button with the wrench just turns the whole shift lever and unscrews the other side button.

I’ll try the pressure washer and see what I can do. Otherwise I guess ride it, hope nothing breaks at least until I’m in Europe again and if the crank breaks then I guess it’s warranty time Schlumpf style ie.several months without the unicycle.


Don’t use a power washer! You’ll get water in where you definitely don’t want it.

I have the same problem with pedal caps; I use a typical inexpensive pick tool from the local hardware store to dig out the crud, then I can tap the hex tool in lightly with a hammer. You could easily spray in a little WD-40 to help soften up the crud if you need to.

I tried a needle to clear it out and that didn’t work. Is the pick tool any different? It’s much smaller than any pedal end-caps I’ve seen, it’s a maybe 8-10mm deep hole, just over 3mm wide, at the bottom of it is a 1.5mm ID, 3mm OD (I think) grub screw just like a pedal pin, which is quite a long way back. Currently the hex key goes in maybe 3mm less than it should, and I don’t think it reaches the grub screw at all.