New Muni Question, Crank size? Overkill?

I’m a beginner, I don’t post because I don’t have anything to say, and I can’t hop up onto a penny.
But, I want to get a Muni and am considering a Qu-Ax. A bit less $ than the KH (which I really don’t deserve) but comes with a 3" tire, I like big tires, you should see my mountain bikes.
It also comes with 170mm cranks, when several others come with 150mm cranks. I am fairly tall at 6’2" (170 lbs), but I’m concerned that longer cranks may not be what I want. I have 127mm cranks on my Nimbus 24", the wheel I’m learning on.

As a side question/discussion, I can afford the KH unicycle, but I’ve been riding all of 3 months, and I’m no kid that is going to improve their skills on a daily basis. Even if I can afford it, is it overkill?
My current goal is to tackle the Pratice Loop on Slick Rock this fall, I live in Durango, it is just up the street :slight_smile:

Any suggestions, opinions, or critiques are appreciated … Craig

For cross-country riding you can basically use a cotterless set, this is only if there are no drops or only minor drops in the course. It is still possible to bend your cranks, but I have not yet on my 29er. For XC riding I also recommend a 29" unicycle above the 24", the size isn’t much difference but the 29" is much lighter because of mainly the tire. The KH 29" would be a good choice then. For a bit tougher MUni I would recommend the 24" Qu-Ax Muni or the 24" Qu-Ax Cross (not sure if it’s available in USA) the Qu-Ax Muni comes with 170mm cranks that are too long in my opinion, so I would contact your dealer and ask for 145mm cranks. The Qu-Ax cross comes with a strong ISIS hub and lightweight but strong aluminium ISIS cranks. Upgrading to other ISIS cranks is always an option then even though I really like the Qu-Ax ISIS cranks I have.

Summing it up:

Cross-Country: 29" KH or 24" Qu-Ax with shorter cranks (145mm or 127mm)
More technical Muni: 24" Qu-Ax with 145mm cranks
Downhill: 24" Qu-Ax with 170mm or 145mm, depending on how steep the terrain is.

I just came from Moab where I saw pretty much every crank length on a variety of wheels.

I was riding with 150’s on a 26 inch wheel and I was definatly on the short end.

In my opinion and from what I saw at Moab I would start off with some 165’s or 150’s (personaly I like shorter so I would go 150), from the sounds of it you aren’t that crazy about drops and stuff and want to do more trails then I would recomend 150’s as they provide plenty of control on dowhills and stuff and will be much better for cruising along the slickrock.

You also mentioned the Qu-ax vs. the KH, I would recomend you get either a KH or at least something with the KH moment hub/crankset. The hub/cranks are really strong, light, cheap, come in a good selection of sizes, and are very compatible with other brands.

The problem with the Qu-ax is that the cranks are very long, it is pretty heavy (although thats not a huge deal), the parts are harder to come by if something goes wrong (48 hole is next to impossible to replace), and you are really limiting yourself in terms of upgrading. If you want a new rim, you need to get a new hub aswell, if you want different cranks, well… good luck.

Another pretty good option is the Torker DX 24". I think it has 150mm cranks, so they are a good length, its splined so its pretty strong, and its cheaper than the others. The only real downsides to it are that you are pretty much stuck with 150 mm cranks (although its probably a better size than the 170’s), it is again the whole 48 hole overkill issue, and its even heavier than the Qu-ax. But its pretty cheap.

Hopefully I have answered your questions, if not then ask more:D !

Regarding rim issues I agree that the 48 hole rim would be hard to replace but I don’t see why you would want to, the newer extra wide Qu-Ax alloy rim is uber strong and very lightweight. Otherwise you are not exactly stuck to the Qu-Ax rim either, Halo makes several rims that use 48 spokes and are very strong, this and this for example.

If you can afford it, get the new KH. I’ve only been riding since Dec, but that’s what was recommedned to me, and I love it. It will also save you in the long run by not having to replace broken parts and upgrading later.

As to cranks, I rode 150’s on Sat at Moab, and switched to 165’s for Sunday’s ride, and felt a lot more comfortable going downhill on the 165’s. I think as I get more control and leg strength, the 150’s will be perfect, but I’m glad I had the 165’s.

Street cruising and light XC I use a KH29 with 137 cranks.

No; the KH is not overkill. if you can afford it then buy it, you will not regreat your choice. If I was forced to keep only one uni then it would be the 2007 KH 24.

well I realy like the 165mm cranks on my 24" muni, because they are good for hills and provide alot of control for trials :wink:

I have 170mm cranks on my 26"X3" Yuni and i think that it is overkill for most of the riding I am doing. I have a separate lighter wheel-set that I use for just getting around and riding in the city with a 27X1-1/4 wheel and 100mm cranks. The 170mm cranks are perfect for riding/falling down the ski hill but are longer than you need for easier trails in my opinion. I sort of wish I would have saved up a bit more and got a KH29 with 150mm cranks it would have been much better for the trails and still be acceptable on the road.

If 170s are overkill on a 26 then they would be overkill on a 24. If you don’t want to do supper technical stuff i would seriously look into a good sturdy 29er.

The KH is cheaper

Unless you quit riding, you will want a KH. Buy it now and start enjoying it now.
Save all that money you will spend on a learner, just buy the KH now. It’s the easiest uni to ride regardless of your ability.
Half the post here are from kids playing fan boy for their cheap toys. Not a single post on the whole forum about how someone wishes they hadn’t bought their KH.

Thanks All

The information is exactly what I’m looking for.
At 46, the only people that think I’m a kid are my parents and my wife, though the term she uses is child :slight_smile:

I am interested in 29 vs 24. While Durango has mostly XC trails, I don’t expect to put on big miles on my Muni, and I guess I would rather be prepared for harder miles than longer miles, so I’m leaning 24"

Tell me I’m wrong or right, and thanks again … Craig

Go 24" you can always pick up a 29 later once you get completly bitten by the Uni bug. it will look good next to the 20" you will want to buy and the 36" and the girrafe and the…

I think the vast majority of off road riders ride 24’s. 26’s seem to be becoming more popular. My advice would be to go with a 24. Unless or until you are riding quite regularly and have good leg strength in my opinion 165’s are optimum. I ride sporatically sometimes quite regularly and sometimes not so regularly. I’ve never found 165’s lacking or too much.

Get the KH24 if you’ve got the money going spare, it’s a very nice well thought out unicycle.

Personally I’d stick with 24" or 26" if you’re going to be riding in a hilly area. 29" is fantastic fun, but much better after you’ve got some experience riding with a wider tyre. 29" limits you to lightweight tyres, which are okay, but require skill to hit anything technical.

Oh and stick with the stock 150mm cranks, 170mm cranks on a 24" is silly stuff and way overkill, can you say pedal strike? They are okay if you never ride anywhere with narrow trails, but not so good when you hit narrow singletrack ruts and want to ride them fast.


I’d generally agree with this, but not in Moab, for example. Some places cry for long cranks. I had to borrow unicycles with long cranks to be competitive in some of the challenge events I entered.

Your profile says you live in Durango. How much crank you get really depends on how steep your local trails are. If not very steep, stay short. You can still ride up (and down) the steep stuff with 150s, but not with as much control as longer cranks. Then the shorter cranks will be faster when the trail is more level.

I have tried just about every size of crank from 80 mm to 170 mm. I have 114s on my 700c and 165s on my 24x3 MUni.

Crank length does make a difference, of course, but less than I used to think. Shorter is smoother; longer is more torque. If you have the stamina and technique, you will ride MUni better by flowing quickly over things with short cranks.

I have found that more than any other component of the uni, the tyre matters. A suitable tyre will make more difference than a few mm either way on your cranks.

And if you take to unicycling in a big way, one day you will have loads of spare cranks in all different sizes. You are not making a fundamental once in a lifetime decision here. Cranks are like gears: you can change them.

I have a Torker DX 24 w/ 150s that I just love. It’s a very-hard-to-beat budget cycle. I do wish that I had spent the money for a KH though. As one previous post said, nobody ever starts a thread saying they wish that had bought something other than a KH. For most of my riding, and I’m pretty much a novice at Muni, the 150s seem adequate. But then I often have brief, steep sections that I just can’t climb and I think 165s would make the difference. The terrain here in Flagstaff is very similar to Durango. I also have a 29er (home-built, also w/ 150s) and the uni I choose for a ride depends on the terrain. If I’m headed out to any trails that might be narrow, rocky and steep, I take the 24. If I’m going on gravel walking paths that are fairly wide and smooth, I take the 29. Most of the mountain bike trails around here require the use of the 24.

I have the QU-AX MUni, and I love it. its very strong, a bit heavy, but you get used to it.

As for the cranks, I use the 170s and they are a bit long, but Ive gotten used to them and don’t notice anymore.

I think the old (03, 04) KH cranks will fit on a QU-AX splined hub, and I’m not sure, but i think the DX cranks will also work. I am NOT sure of this, so ask someone who is sure before buying anything. But if they do fit, you could put the DX150s on you QU-AX-- that would be a solution.

Of course, if you have the spare change, go for the KH. They’re the best out there.

If you can afford it you will want the KH, even if you can’t really afford it:)(start w/ the 24).

I wish I started like you, But I whent streight to the DX 24" instead of a Nimbus II. I’d ride the Nimbus untill you start to bend the cranks, then get the KH. The nice thing w/ the Nimbus is you can get a full selection of crank sizes for the price of one set of splined cranks and find which you like best before you buy the KH.

I put 170 mm Qu-Ax cranks on my Torker, even though I have very long legs for my 5’10" height I liked the 165’s on a KH I tried better. It’s difficult to pedal smoothly at the top of the pedal stroke, although this might not be a problem if my ankles weren’t locked at 90 degrees or had partial paralysis in my legs. Overal I prefer the 170’s over my 150’s for really technical terrain.

Right now I’m learning to ride SIF and it’s REALLY awkward w/ cranks that long, so when I learn how to do that and consistently mount w/ the 150’s I think I’ll switch to those.

As you can see from the responses to your thread, there is no perfect crank length for every rider. There are too many variables involved. Perfect for you, where you’re at, and what your riding, may not be perfect for me, where I’m at and with what I’m riding.

Personally I get more of a thrill being able to power up a steep technical incline than cruising uber fast on the flats, therefore I prefer a longer crank. Besides while it may be true that everyone else with shorter cranks may be a bit ahead of me on the flats I’ll pass them as their walking their uni’s up the next steep incline.

When I want to go fast I ride my 36’er with the 114 mm cranks on it.

Buy the KH24. In mountain bike terms, it’s the equivalent of a sweet ride, like a Santa Cruz Nomad, but for a helluva bargain price. You won’t regret it. I haven’t.

If you mountain bike regularly and have strong legs, go with the 150 cranks. If you’re like me, and need a little help on the uphills, try the 165s. I’m never in a huge hurry when I muni, so I don’t miss the extra speed I could get with 150s, but greatly appreciate the extra leverage in technical and uphill sections. Plus, as somebody said before, cranks aren’t too expensive for the new KH Moment hub, so you can play around with different choices for not too much money.