This is probably immediately obvious to most people but it took me a while to get there. I switch between several different unicycles and one of the benefits of the KH Fusion Zero is that I can share the saddle since switching between unicycles is relatively easy and doesn’t require additional adjustment as long as you have a seatpost on each unicycle. However, that leaves you with a seatpost that could possibly scratch frames or other parts or get scraped on the ground. To prevent this I cut a hole in an old tennis ball and it fit great on the pivotal seatposts that I have.
Attached are a few photos of my current setup for all kinds of Muni except pure technical DH.
It is incredibly comfortable. I feel like I could ride forever without chafing or front soreness. All the pressure is on the sit bones. Control is good, especially for technical XC where you are twisting a lot and pulling over roots. Saddle angle is set at 1 groove visible (2nd to highest angle). The “T” of the T-bar is cut to 120 mm width.
The photos show a prototype T-bar handle with a curve that’s not currently available.
However it’s possible to get close to the setup with the uncurved T-bar handle or (with the handle somewhat further out) the Shadow handle bar; I think there were photos/comments previously about that setup.
The front bumper with the hole is easiest to cut; alternatively the front handle could be removed and spacers / washers inserted under the L-brackets before bolting them to the saddle.
After trying several different combinations of saddle angle and handle bar positions my uni is finally Zeroed, meaning that I’ve found the zero zone, a place where I feel comfort and performance are optimized. A state of bliss, lol!
The Zero is so comfortable once your set up is correct. In my case I’m set up for road riding. My saddle is angled backwards one notch and my T-bar is angled slightly downwards so that the handle bars are positioned just lower than the saddle. When l lean on the handle bars my arms are straight.
I’m using the shadow handle bars with rubber hand grips. The grips add thickness to the bars making them very comfortable to lean on.
There is some downward flex when the T-bar is extended. In my set up I have the T-bar resting against the saddle post. I have a rubber insert between the T-bar and post to protect the post and to reduce any natural vibration caused by uneven road surface etc.
With my set up zeroed in I’ve been able to cycle until my energy runs out with no saddle discomfort. Riding on road camber has become much easier. I can now lean into the camber without my saddle pushing out against my inner thigh. With wider saddles I found that I had to lean and twist my back more to overcome the outward pressure of the saddle against my inner thigh which was throwing me off centre.
I’ve also noticed that after a long session on the Zero that I don’t feel pressure on my hips as with a wider saddle.
In the photo my brake lever is a bit far from the T-bar, I’ve since angled it up so that it is easier to operate.
I’m running 125mm Quax light cranks etc.
Thanks to Kris for his continued pursuit of quality and advancement in unicycling. He’s a true pioneer.
As for me I’m going to increase my distance riding.
Thanks so much for that awesome review.
I’d be stoked if you could add that as a product review online, wherever you bought this.
My biggest nervousness with releasing this saddle was that - given that it’s different - some riders will give up before they make the necessary adjustments and never realize how comfortable it could have been.
Attached are photos of the T-bar mounted without the front handle, as close as it can get to the saddle.
Attached are photos of the T-bar mounted without the front handle, as close as it can get to the saddle.
My guess is that this may become one of the most popular choices for muni and all-around use.
Note that the the F Zero has the plastic handle inset 2.5 mm into the base (increases the height of ribs through the front part). That means that you need to stack about 3 mm of washers between the L bracket and the base, at each bolt. See the attached photo.
Hello Kris, first of all, let me congratulate you on this wonderful saddle. It takes courage to invest your time and money into something so revolutionary as the Zero saddle.
I always felt that there was room for more innovation when it came to unicycle saddles but I couldn’t quite figure out what was needed. But when I saw the picture of the Zero on your post, I thought…YES! this is it.
Yes, I’d be more than happy to put my review up as a product review. I bought mine from Roger in UDC UK., so I will organise with Roger to put it online.
Thanks so much! Is it OK if I use the first line of your review as a quote? I don’t know your name except for your handle.
Yes indeed you can. Please feel free to use all of the review or any part of it to promote the Zero.
Super, thanks =)
I rode 36 km/550m today on my KH36 with F Zero (only on asphalt). It was better, less soreness, but less km than at last time.
Picture shows my actual setup.
My recommendation on long distance riding with F Zero:
- change your positions on saddle during the ride
- use T-bar (make a little pressure down with arms, not only keep in hand/s)
- do some breaks during rides (walk, make photo, sit on something else, …)
- stand up for a while when riding
- use b*ke shorts with padded in the right place
You always will have some soreness (even on b*ike sadlle…) but with right setup (like Kris says: right angle is the key) it´ll be better.
I wonder who will be the first that will make 100 km (miles) ride with F Zero
Thank you Kris for all you are doing for unicycling. You changed my life in the best way!
Kris, thanks for getting this seat to market, I know how expensive it is to bring a new product to market.
I wanted to hit on a few points that folks mentioned, including the seat angle and mounting location and how that relates to your position in (on) the seat:
With a curved set you are using the curvature of the seat to hold you in a certain position, however with a flat seat you don’t have curvature so instead you need to adjust the slope/angle of the seat to get the right position. I have a 6-8 degree upturned nose which works well for me.
In terms of seat setback, unicycle are not like a bike where you are locating your self between two non moving points (wheels), because the unicycle frame will rotate under your body and achieve an equilibrium over the single wheel. If you could adjust the seat post mountin location you would notice that you would adjust the seat up or down as the seat was moved fore or aft, but on profile the seat would appear to be at the same angle.
As for padding, I also rode Kris’s prototype seat and was able to compare it with my Flat Fish and my DIY flat seats. I found his seat to be firmer than I like, where my preferred seat pad is a Freeride with some minor whittlling. I understand how a hard seat can require an adjustment period, the seats on my mountain bikes are much firmer than the firmest unicycle seat, as well I have tried to model DIY flat seats with thing foam such as Nimbus Gel and Fusion pads. I’d like to see a more padded option.
Hopefully there will be a thick foam option in time OR someone will buy the Zero and use their own foam and DIY seat cover.
I really like the seat post change, though it’s not microadjust, it is also not as likely to break and it is way easier to adjust!
All we need now is a muni handle
Have been thinking about this. Everyone’s preferences are just so darn different, both for saddle angle and handle position, which make it hard for design. That is the nice thing about the T-bar - it works well for such an enormous range of preferences. I am really liking the T-bar set up very close to the Zero front handle (with plastic handle removed), as a dedicated muni handle for XC and All-Mountain riding.
He Nurse Ben!
Welcome back to the forum!
What have you been doing all that time? New hobbies?
I agree with the padding options. I think the zero is a bit too firm too.
Today I had some good UPDs resulting in the uni rolling along by it self with the seat dragging behind. I realize that the back of the seat is actually touching the ground with the padding/seat-cover and not the bumper as I would expect. My seat is set to the fairly standard one ridge visible in the back with the seat tilted up in the front.
Have anyone done anything smart to extend the rear bumper so that it has a function or are people just planning not to fall too much? I noticed on the scratches in the back of my seat that the bumper does touch the ground and get scrapes after the seat padding has been compressed, but the seat it self extends further than the bumper. The cover remains without too bad scratches so far, so the fabric at least feels tough.
I also think I need to apply some locktite to the pivot bolt treads as it seems to be getting loose after some weeks.
Otherwise it is starting to become very comfortable. I used to be rather numb in the sitting area after a trip, but I do not feel any numbness or soreness at all after my trips now.
See there from Pierrox :
Hmm, that is not pretty at all, though I guess it works. I think I’ll see if I can’t find some other solution.
Kris, in my opinion this is perhaps the only design flaw on your otherwise excellent seat.
I UPD a lot and noticed some abrasions on the seat in the rear area above the bumper after a couple days of riding. I decided to use Gorilla Tape to help protect it. My plan is to replace the tape when it wears through. I feel the shape of the bumper could be changed so that it extends higher to cover the area which suffers a lot of wear without affecting the ride.
Here is what my rear bumper looks like after a couple weeks:
Wow that is a lot of abrasion!
I agree that the bumper doesn’t protect quite as well as I’d like. That could be slightly helped by getting rid of the small bulge in the foam at the back, but I don’t think it would eliminate the issue. Same with raising the bumper: this would require new tooling (=expensive solution) and again I’m not sure it would entirely work because of the angle the saddle hits the ground. Using a more durable material for the rear panel would provide the widest coverage, as long as it wasn’t too stiff (e.g. influenced saddle comfort). Will look into this. In the meantime, Seam Grip is a very effective way to repair small tears and increase abrasion resistance: