Need tips to transition from wheel walk to pedals

I need tips on how to get back on the pedals after wheel walking. I can ride and transition to wheel walk 100% of the time. I can go in a straight line wheel walking until I get tired, but I cannot get back on the pedals without falling over. I’m using a 20" Torker LX with cranks about 157 long. I can’t see the pedals or cranks while I’m wheel walking. I haven’t even landed the transition even once. The only way I get off the unicycle now when ww is to fall off the front. So I need your help out there with some advice. Thanks.

Have no fear.
Put your feet down randomly.

  1. Fall on your back. 2) Ride out successfully.
    Repeat until you accomplish 2).
    Get it consistent.

Good luck! :slight_smile:

Try pausing the walk for a second and then continuing. If you can do this, try taking a peek down to see where your pedals are during the pause and then recover to wheel walk. Generally it’s easier to ride out by putting the first foot on the pedal when it’s in the upper-front portion of it’s circle and trying to ride forward.

Another option is to work on 1 foot wheel walk, and when you can do that successfully, 1fww with the other foot hanging, waiting to meet the pedal at the top of it’s stroke.

its funny i was just needing this info today. i am prettycclose to being able to wheelwalk(about 10 ft so far max) and i tried to transition back. i did it the first time i tried, but never again. i think you have to pause a little, look down, place you front foot on the pedal, then hope your other foot magically finds the other pedal. so thats all it is. magic

  1. Practice looking down while wheel walking. Glance down, then bring your head back up for balance. Soon you will know how/where to look to see what your pedals are doing.
  2. Don’t stare at the pedals. Once you’ve seen where they are, you technically have all the information you need for a smooth transition, though more practice will be necessary before this becomes true.
  3. Catch your preferred pedal when it comes up to horizontal in the rear. Though you can do it front or rear, rear seems less scary for most people. If you keep a steady forward roll until your foot hits the pedal, you need only pause for a moment with your foot there, before your momentum will require you to ride forward. By then your other foot can be on the front pedal. If you start with the front pedal, you generally have to push down on it pretty quick to keep under control. That’s why I prefer going to the rear pedal.
  4. Repeat until it gets consistent, then easier, then comfortable, then non-ugly to look at. Beginners tend to go for multiple wheel turns with their heads tilted down. Makes it harder to maintain balance, and doesn’t look good. Taking short glances is better.
  5. With more practice, you’ll be able to take one glance, then wait until your pedal comes around without having to look again.
  6. With even more practice, you won’t have to look down at all. When I used to do a lot of that, I got to where I could tell where the pedals were by the wobble in the wheel. For this it helps if you’re riding indoors or on nice, smooth surfaces. But I’m sure it can be mastered under more difficult conditions.

Conflicting opinions but you can always do what works best for you. I agree with John about it being easier to aim for the preferred rear pedal. Just like in a static mount the rear pedal is easiest to start with because it holds the wheel steady rather than driving it.

During coasting transition back to pedals the opposite is easier with the front pedal being the one I go for- with no foot on the tire the back pedal bucks more than the front one.

I found that the best way for me was glance down and stop the wheel walk, while stationary a drop which ever foot is not being used to hold the wheel static. The moment I feel the pedal I move my other foot onto the pedal.

At you can see I personally prefer to make the transition, with the nearest pedal (the one that comes up).

Another workaround I do a lot: doing 1ft ww, and have the extended foot catch the pedal without looking at it.

Serious? That’s interresting. I guess a flexible frame would be a disadvantage, cause I never was able to do so. Or maybe I’m not aware of it (or doing always my workaround). On the other hand my heavy pedals should be a benefit.
And I can asure I’m pretty sensitive, I recently discovered I very obviously can tell the difference between bearings, just from the riding behaviour of the wheel (and I don’t mean just the rolling speed).
On what speed do you do this blind transition? I guess above average?

I want to thank each of you for all the great advice. I can see that it was all carefully thought out to help me. Thank you.
I am in the process now of applying it to my practice sessions. So far out of many attempts to get back on the pedals no successes. Still as I have discovered many times now, new skills don’t come fast. I anticipate many more attempts then slowly one or two successes and finally over time perfection, so I will keep on following your advice until I get the transition to the pedals.
The feedback has been great too, because you have all encouraged me to keep on trying and trying.

Actually it’s a lot harder to feel pedal position when wheel walking than when gliding (or coasting). And I used to use 125mm cranks on my 20", which probably helped. When I could do it, it worked at anything but really slow speeds, but we’re talking high pressure tire, gym floor, optimum conditions. Harder to do on pavement, etc.

Hmmm, aha; I always do ww’s slow.

I reminds me to another transition I used to do, but I found not that usefull:
at one point I found out that you can catch the pedals in any position, blindly
(like you describe in you 1st post; you don’t need the upcomming pedal neccerairilly), while you do this blind atempt and finding out the pedal is upcomming or not, you can grab it anyway, after you give the wheel some “fixation” as needed with the other foot and quickly catch the other pedal which is easy to locate as you already found the 1st pedal.
Of course you first need to be able to deal with the “dead angle” position before you will be 100% successful. I did and do not find this solution very elegant, so I didn’t porsuit doing it.