So little history, i started learning mid-June and can now ride pretty well, i started on a nimbus 20 but changed to a nimbus 24 as it was closer to what i was planning on doing (Muni) (both uni’s borrowed from a friend) and i now feel ready and certain that unicycling is for me, i want to do mainly Muni riding around the trails in Cornwall/UK but with some cycle paths of no more than 20miles (very occassionally) cycling next to the Mrs…
My question is, My heart has fallen for the 26inch Nimbus hatchet however i am worried that although it would forfil my needs for the trails side of things, i wasnt sure if it would cope with keeping up with the mrs and her 20mile jog/run as i cant seem to find any reviews regarding this specifically.
Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated
Nick
The Hatchet, IMO, is a specialized unicycle. You might consider going with something more conventional before buying that one. A 26" is probably speed compatible with a jogger/runner. It took me a while before I was comfortable riding next to another person. As a beginner, I had to concentrate so hard, I could not hold a conversation with another person while riding. Ideally, while the missus is jogging, you will be “playing” around in the vicinity, finding little spots to “session” on. I’d buy the 26" or 27.5" Oracle before getting a Hatchet. There was a lot of buzz about the Hatchet when it was new, but that has died down. The Hatchet is going to shine in certain conditions, but it’s going to tire you out faster on everything else. Hopefully some happy Hatchet riders can chime in on this. Congratulations on learning to ride. Welcome to the forum!
Unless she runs faster than 9.8 mph on average (half marathon in 80 minutes)
you should be fine on a 26". Well, on pavement at least, and maybe not in the very beginning:D
Why? I go for a little circular route in the evenings sometimes. Last time I checked I averaged 16.7km/h (10.4mph). That is for 24½ mins and also includes hills. Google tells me I am climbing (and descending) 119 metres. I even overtook a lycra clad cyclist (going a fairly steep section), so I don’t think many runners would have kept up.
This was on a 26" Nimbus Muni, with a 2.35 Schwalbe “Fat Frank” tyre and 102mm cranks. I should add the route is smooth, primarily a cycle path.
Awesome advice, thank you so much, love the hatchet just wanted to avoid buying to many uni’s due to the expensive of them. I will take your advice and skip the hatchet and stick to a oracle or something similar, but highly personalise to make it just as attractive in my eyes as the hatchet is (and soon to be was)
To be 100%, using a 29" for that kind of distance would be easier but it is certainly doable on a 26".
A nice thing with the 26" size is the massive range of tyres you can select between for all kinds of conditions. The basic Nimbus muni frames have clearance for a 3" (75-559) tyre, which takes you close to the width of my 28"x1½" (40-635) Pashley unicycle. I can only imagine that an Oracle has at least as much clearance, if not more.
Here is a picture of my Nimbus 26" muni with only a 2.35" (60-559) tyre, next to the Pashley, so you can see what I mean:
Average speed based on wheel size over longer distance will vary a lot based on skill, crank length and road conditions. A 26" at 10 mph would be cadence of 129 rpm and that is quite fast.
From a past thread one poster wrote:
Estimated/Actual Averages over long distance (miles per hour):
Coker (35er) …12-14 mph (from threads on this forum)
29er…8 mph (me, out for a nice ride, 125mm cranks)
29er…6.5 mph (me, racing crosscountry/MUni, 150mm cranks)
26…7 mph (est)
24 MUni…5 mph (me, racing crosscountry/MUni with 170mm cranks)
24 MUni…3 mph (me, casual)
20… this is too small for long distance. (IMHO)
And another posted:
A Coker does 1mph for every 9.34 rpm
(93 rpm = 10 mph)
A 29 does 1mph for every 11.6 rpm
(116 rpm = 10 mph)
A 28 does 1 mph for every 12 rpm
(120 rpm = 10 mph)
A 26 does 1 mph for every 12.9 rpm
(129 rpm = 10 mph)
A true 24 does 1 mph for every 14 rpm
(140 rpm = 10 mph)
A 20 does 1 mph for every 16.8 rpm)
(168 rpm = 10 mph)
Figures are approximate as most wheel sizes are only nominal.
So, what is your sustainable cadence? 60 rpm = 2 pedal strokes per second. 90 rpm = 3, pedal strokes per second. 120 rpm = 4 pedal strokes (two complete circles) per second.
For me as relatively new 36" rider over 20 miles I should be able to average 8 to 10 mph with my 127mm cranks on a relatively level smooth route. Everyones mileage will vary.
You should also note, that the tires are not lined up (the Nimbus is leaning further out), so they are actually closer in size than this picture makes them appear.
Before as in, “in preference to getting a Hatchet, period” or as in, “get one of those Oracles instead so you can learn how to ride that size on something easier/less specialized first”?
I’m very curious about the Hatchet myself, so am another who would appreciate hearing more about it, positive or negative or whatever comes to mind.
Sorry about the confusion. If someone is in the market for their first muni, I would recommend getting something more conventional, such as the Oracle.
I should not be so critical of the Hatchet. We all have different riding styles and different riding conditions. The Hatchet is not suited to my style of riding or my conditions. I ride slowly and frequently come to brief still stands while navigating technical terrain and while going up hills. A heavy tire would make it difficult to regain momentum under those conditions. My riding has also evolved to the point where I am not so easily bucked off the unicycle on uneven terrain. That diminishes the motivation to get a tire that rolls over everything.
Some trails have a lot of roots sticking up, crossing the trail, that cannot be avoided/steered around. I can see how the Hatchet, with it’s big tire, would be great in those conditions. Not a problem in my neighborhood, though.
My casual observation while riding an Oracle 26" at a comfortable pace with 150cm cranks is that you will be faster than a jogger but slower than a runner. You might want a shorter crank length or multi hole cranks if your Mrs keeps up a good pace.
