Good luck with this project! I was skeptical about a freewheel on larger wheels but now I’m sure it can be ridden and it’s possible the larger wheel will be a benefit. Every day I get a little bit better on my freewheel. I think you’re stuck with rim brakes, however. Going the UCM/Sinz route will only stop your feet from going around (not the wheel). What size cranks are you planning? I find smaller is better. I use 114mm for my 26" and would probably try 125mm with a 36".
Doh! Duh, I’d need the disk hub for a disk brake. I scare myself sometimes… 
I have 150’s and 114’s. I’ll try the 150’s first since that what I’m using on it ATM.
Can anyone confirm frame spacing on a QU AX QX 36er frame? I believe that’s the only available 100mm 36er frame, but can’t find any solid numbers.
I can’t, but if you want quax for the disc tab, I’m pretty sure that those frames are unavailable without buying an entire uni.
I don’t want the disc tab, I just want it for the spacing. I was looking at this:
I’ve seen pictures of a Quax 36 wheel in a KH frame so it seems like that would work. All the quax hubs I’ve seen pics of look like 100 mm. Of course you’ll need bearing shims if you get a new frame, but those are pretty cheap.
So why not a KH? (I’m not faulting you here, I’m just curious.)
KH’s are spaced to 127mm. At least the KH hubs are, so I’d assume that the frames would be too. 
As far as I know, QU AX is the only one who makes a 100mm 36er wheel. I just need to find some solid numbers to support that.
I emailed, we’ll see what they say.
Probably all a bit premature, seeing as how this may all be a failure.
The Moment hub and KH frame have 100mm spacing. However, you may have to swap over your Magura brakes or drill a hole for the sidepull brakes on that frame.
It’s not a failure if you learn something. It’s worth it just trying something that no one’s ever done.
The frame looks fine, don’t sweat it, I tweaked mine with arm power alone, no issues with alignment, new 32 wheel built and running, working on my second frankentire today
Hey, you do know that the Trike hub has 40mm bearings, right? If you didn’t already buy some, you’ll need bearing spacers to make it fit 42mm beaing holders…so order some fast or you won’t get to ride 
I want video, pictures are so yesterday, make sure it’s low res so ican view it on my slow internet connection
You are so gonna fall on your arse! Try grass on a slight uphill, wear wrist guards…
I’m not sure if he does need spacers seeing as that’s a titan frame.
Are you certain about that? I assumed it would be 100mm like all the other KH stuff since it appears to use the same hub.
Ben, the Titan has 40mm bearing housings. When/if I get a new frame, then I’ll need the shims.
If KH frames truly are 100mm, then I’d be more than happy to get one.
Edit: I’ll be damned, looks like KH frames are 100mm. That solves that…
My ancle still hates me for it, I want it bad
One thing I’m really curious about is foot position. As I’ve mentioned when I’m not pedaling I generally have my feet around the 12 and 6 o’clock positions (plus or minus 1) with my right foot down. This has always given me the most leverage for coasting and braking. However I’m finding that under certain circumstances, namely a sudden steep decline, I need to extend that to about 10 and 4 o’clock. In the early days trying to put my feet horizontal at 9 and 3 o’clock was an instant UPD. I’ve noticed over the last few weeks that when my feet get to this position accidentally I can ride it out for a few revolutions before correcting it by pedaling. Today I actually practiced the horizontal position and found it to be much easier than it’s been in the past (although not as easy as vertical). It’s probably worthwhile to practice just to save myself from some UPDs but I’m wondering if it might be a better default position.
What this means to your 36er project is maybe you should experiment with both positions before committing to either. It doesn’t sound like you’ll be coasting from the start but this is relevant to your foot position while braking as well.
Kiefer, let me know when you’re ready to try it and I’ll come film you with my camera. This is too momentous not to get on video.
Is Killian’s name Kiefer?
Got my wheel completely torn down today. Cleaned it all up with some alcohol and will be begin building tomorrow I guess.
Tried not to scratch anything up as best I could.
Wish I’d have thought to not use a paper towel, now all my spoke holes have little bits of paper towel snagged on the burrs…
Hub is now laced into my rim. I just need to tension and true now.
I used some permatex anti sieze on my spoke threads and on the shoulders of all the nipples to lube them. There are a few spots on my rim (inside and out) where I wiped up extra anti sieze that are still visible. I’m sure it’s not ‘stained’ just really hard to clean up. Sort of like how grease is really hard to clean up, but you can see it since it has the metal particals in it.
Does anyone know of anything that’ll clean up anti sieze witout hurting the anodized rim or my spokes? I’m sure it’s probably anal, but I’d like to at least try and clean it up a bit. Rubbing alcohol didn’t do much…
Thanks.
I always go with lighter fluid (naptha) first, it usually works pretty well. Nail polish remover (acetone) is also pretty good. As you mentioned, the solids contained in molybdenum disulfide get into the grains of the metal and are pretty hard to remove. (This is why it’s such a good lubricant.) You will, however, be glad you used it.
Acetone seems like it is likely to work. Or mineral spirits or gasoline both could be worth a shot.
I will try acetone first (don’t have any lighter fluid), thanks!