My new Nimbus 36

Well, I got rid of my Coker Big One because I didn’t have room to store it, and I bought a Nimbus 36 because Gadge pointed it out on eBay, and my hand slipped on the “bid” button.:o

The old “Big One” frame was a simple inverted Y shape. The Nimbus has the double forks and lots of triangulation. The result is it’s much more rigid and easier to steer. It’s far better to ride, and better looking too.

The old “Big One” had the button treat Coker tyre. My new Nimbus has the TA 36" tyre which has grooves, but no knobbles. The TA36 is far quieter on tarmac (not of the button tread buzz), steers well, but seems to feel the camber more than I remember the Coker doing. Worst thing is it has no fore and aft grip whatsoever, so muddy puddles and sudden slippery dips are unrideable. On the plus side, there seems little danger of a side slip.

I’ve just checked the price of 36" tyres. :astonished: :astonished:

The old one had a Viscount seat: heavy, solid, no handle. I had a KH Fusion on it at one time. I used to sink in the foam and my goolies slowly floated to the surface, stretching my scrotum painfully. :astonished: I have the same seat on my KH24 and it’s no problem - preswumably because I’m standing up more of the time (or my goolies have become less buoyant). The Nimbus has a KH Street Fusion seat which has a good grip at the front, very little padding, and is marginally less comfortable than the Miyata on my 700c.

The Nimbus came with 125mm light alloy cranks (on the wide chromolly square taper hub) and I was used to riding on 150s.

In this morning’s ride in Sherwood Forest with the 125s still on, freemounting on the flat was hard work but I managed 3 out of every 4. On rougher tracks and slight up hills it was worse than 50%. Riding up uneven hills, especially with gravel and sand, was difficult, and I often found myself stalling, with less “torque” than a mime artist and UPDing, only to have to walk to the top. Descents were exhilarating, but not fully under control.

I brought it home and put on some old steel 152mm cranks, took an inch or two of the seat post and dropped the saddle an inch to compensate for the change in crank length. Freemounting instantly became natural, and recovery from bad mounts became much easier. I took it round many of my traditional routes at the Water Sports Centre, including some of the steeper descents, and it was like meeting an old friend. Until I hit some muddy dips, of course.

I had forgotten how many extra stupid comments the big wheel provokes.:frowning:

Great fun, though. The frame is certainly worth it. The aero rim is smart and a bit lighter than the old steel one. The weld is a bit obvious, though.

When I’m sure about the crank length I’ll probably upgrade to some lighter ones. The tyre may become either a challenge or a problem. I certainly wouldn’t recommend this tyre as first choice for anything but tarmac.

That makes perfect sense to me. :roll_eyes:

10 hours and a filleting knife gave my TA some pretty sweet grip, and a sore thumb.

Sitting here missing my 36

36ers are awsome, I got a coker bigone and I installer a brake last week, when I go downhill(My brake aren’t ajusted yet) the wheel flexs and it makes the brake touchs the rim. It’s pretty anoying, appart from that, I love my Coker Bigone:)

When I bought my 36er I was thinking of hacking the TA tyre to give more grip but it seems to stick amazingly well on the routes I tend to ride, so I haven’t bothered. I thought it would be terrible on the wet grassy, muddy stuff on my commute but the only time I’ve ever completely lost it is when cornering on frozen mud one winter (but I’d probably have had no grip there even on the muni). I’m not saying it never slips, but it hasn’t bothered me enough to put in the effort to cut the tread.

One thing about TA tyres is they seem to last forever - mine looks exactly the same now as it did 2000 miles ago. Which is good or bad, depending on if you want an excuse to try another tyre. Regarding road camber problems, my experience is the exact opposite of what most other people seem to report - if I run the tyre at more than 30psi it wants to throw me into the hedge. Lower pressures are much more controllable (which suits me anyway because of my half-off-road commute). The Nightrider tyre is supposed to be nicer all round, and less camber-sensitive, but I’m not shelling out £60 until the TA wears out (never).

As for saddles and goolie float, the most comfortable uni saddle I’ve ever had for long rides is an early KH Fusion - seems to suit me really well. The older KH saddle was a bit too thick, and my latest one (2008 Fusion Freeride) is pretty nasty as well IMO (not at all impressed, but I’m hoping I’ll get used to it).

It’s interesting that you say the Nimbus multi-tube frame feels stiffer than the old Coker one. I’ve heard at least one person say the opposite (that it feels really floppy on cornering). Mine’s a Qu-Ax “coker copy” frame and does flex a bit sideways on steep climbs, but not that bad. It does feel odd on sharper road corners, but I put that down to the TA tyre’s too-square tread profile. If I could justify throwing money at it I’d be tempted by a KH 36 frame.

Rob

I had a Nimbus frame and I just got the KH one and it seems MUCH stiffer but I’ve only been on one ride with it so far, but the brakes certaintly are much better withthe new frame (no rubbing, unlike with the nimbus frame, and this are Maguras).

You enjoy that 36er Mike.I have the nightrider tyre on my 36er and in a recent period of simulated english weather down under it performed quite well in offroad puddles and mud.I’m guessing you would benefit with the trails you ride.Keep the write ups coming.:slight_smile: