i am demanding a video of this beastly unicycle.
You can e-mail UDC with your questions about the frame and if you ask they might have the big apple in 2.0, they often have stuff that they don’t list.
I would get the spokes from your LBS. You don’t really need 13G spokes especially with the extra large diameter of the flanges on the geared hub.
Good luck!
If it’s like this one, it’s the 2005. The 2007 frame doesn’t have the nubs on the fork crown. (That may be the 2007 frame and they just haven’t updated the picture, so yeah e-mail them.)
…plus it would have slightly taller “gearing” that way 
Are pictures out of the question as of now?
I have had a brake fitted to the Schlumpf before now, but I have never used it for anything other than taking some of the steepness out of some off-road down hills. I wouldn’t consider it for general road use or slowing down. I did use the brake on my N36 once as an emergency stop, but that was just really really messy (although possibly less messy than the alternative).
I did Sleepless In The Saddle with my Schlumpf after some people said that it was Cokerable. However, due to the rough terrain, I could hardly find any bits smooth enough to change up, so used it in low gear 99% of the time. In hindsight a standard fixed 29er with short cranks would have been lighter and quicker.
STM
Yeah, I think a coker can ride significantly harder off road terrain than the schlumpf in high gear. The teensy bit of gear slop and slightly higher gear seem to make a real difference. Obviously the cool thing is that you have a low gear which can ride much more than a coker.
Like Kris said, when I’m doing muni on it, I only use the high gear for getting to the trails, or for if there are very long fireroad sections that aren’t super steep.
I’ve got a brake, mainly for road hills at the moment, although it was jolly handy when I was riding a lot of muni on the schlumpf. I think on road having a brake is pretty handy, Spencer you might want to stick your brake back on for Saturdays ride, there are a couple of steep road descents, and it’d be good practice at brake use.
Bruce - you should phone em up, if it’s anything like over here, they only have a limited range of stuff on the site and don’t have details of spokes etc. but they tend to have more stuff hanging around, and phoning up and talking to them is the easiest way to sort it all out.
Joe
I rode my geared 29er today to work for the first time. It took me a little longer than it usually takes me on my 36er with 114s. I think this is due to the fact that it was really windy and I am not fully used to riding in high gear. I also found that since there are some rolling hills on the commute I was using low gear to climb some of the sections that I could easily power up on my 36 with 114s. About 70% of my commute is on a cycle path as well, and I think that if I were on the road the high gear would be more effective. I will see if my time improves as I get used to the cycle. Today was really cold, with the wind chill it was about 18F according to weather dot com and there was a lot of ice on the cycle path.
The 125s feel quite nice but 125s in high gear and wind dont really work so well on hills. Also, even though I am using the 125mm slot in the dual drilled cranks, the wheel still wobbles as much as it would in the 150mm slot (I think) since the crank length obviously doesn’t actually change. I am wondering if for RTL I should use a light weight 125mm isis crank to cut down on wheel wobble. For now it is fine, and the dual drilled are amazing for traveling and versatility, but for a racing situation lighter cranks without that extra bit might work better.
Also…my right crank came loose again on my ride into work. I had to tighten it up quite a bit when I got in this morning. Hopefully the crank will stay on good this time, if not I wonder if I can use Loctite on the ISIS bolt to hold the crank on better? I will have to email Florian and see what he says about that. I don’t want to do anything to the cranks/hub that he wouldn’t recommend.
@412, if it’s cool with Kris, I’ll totally take pictures of it when it gets here. He told you guys about it, so I imagine it totally would be. Actually, Kris is online right now! 
Kris?
I like no secrecy! It beats the way UDC released teh nightrider stuffs in my opinion… we have this to be excited about instead of “something” to be excited about 
Sure, I’m OK with that =).
K.
So far UDC is not being very helpful. They responded saying that they don’t have a Schlumpf hub so they can’t say which frames will work with it!
I responded to them saying that I know that the 2007 and late 2006 KH frames will work, but I haven’t got another reply yet. Frustrating!
Maybe Kris or Florian should contact them and straighten them out – them not knowing is a bit silly. Or, if anybody has recommendations on alternate places to buy all my gear, I’d be happy to ditch UDC and go elsewhere. This is for delivery to Washington state.
Update: just heard back from them. They said:
“We’ve already had one 2007 frame that did not fit the hub…but the KH 29 we have in stock is the newest version 07 available.”
Odd. I wonder what the incompatibility was. Maybe the same one reported by siafirede?
Not to put words in their mouth, but I think they are saying that they can’t say which frames besides the KH frames will fit, which is fair enough if they haven’t had the opportunity yet to check.
For the KH/Schlumpf hub, any double-bolt style 42mm bearing housing that has an inside lip less than 2mm should work, for frames with standard 100mm bearing spacing. Any excessively wide bearing housings (wider than the KH ones) might hit the cranks. In addition, the bearing housing must be strong enough to withstand cranking it tighter than normal on the gear torque side. I never tested it on anything but a KH frame, so I can’t speak from experience for other frames.
Kris
Edit: looks like Kris beat me to it, but I’ll leave my post up.
I think they are saying they don’t know which frames will fit now after I called them on Friday. They probably don’t want to say for sure that the frames will fit until they can piece it together themselves, which is a good idea. My issue was with the bearing holders and I found out from Kris that the frame I ordered was the correct size but since it was a little earlier version the bearing holders were not correct for the kh/schlumpf hub. It was pretty easy to dremmel out the lip a little to make it fit though.
If you order the 29" frame that is listed as not having the noodles and is listed for 199 dollars, it will be the frame that I ordered. That will fit, but the bearing holders may not. The slightly earlier versions of the bearing holders had a 4mm lip and that was modified to fit the kh/schlumpf hub and was changed to a 2mm lip.
Unicycle dot com will be receiving their shipment of kh/schlumpf hubs soon, and then they are going to see what frames and bearing holders work without the need of grinding. I have been quite happy with the service they have given me and found Andrew to be quite helpful whenever I call. Try phoning them up instead of emailing.
They have already said that once they test the frames/bearing holders themselves they will mail me a set of bottom bearing holders that are the correct size. Once again, superb service from unicycle.com.
Update:
While I was showing off my geared unicycle in the office just now I was explaining how the gearing worked and then I noticed that I was missing a bolt for my bearing housing on the right side. I must not have had the bearing holders on tight on that side. Does a loose bearing holder cause cranks to come loose as well? Luckily there is a bike shop nearby and I can pick up a 5mm bolt so I can unicycle safely home.
I’m curious why people tend to not use the brake for general slow down or emergency stopping. I do it all the time with my N36. I’ll frequently speed around Cupertino, CA and as the stop lights change I’ll have to stop, quickly. I grab the brake, lean back, and do a quick stop with nearly no leg back pressure to slow me down. It saves a lot of leg power. In addition, I always find myself using the brake to do even casual slow downs.
Maybe it is my riding style? I prefer to ride with both hands on the handlebar.
Or, maybe it is the brake? I recently switched from the Magura to a cable brake on my N36. The magura would rub the side of the wheel as I went up steep hills (read: really really steep, like by my house), and it would tend to “grab” to fast. On a whim, I mounted an olds kid bike brake, and I’ve been loving it. The stopping power isn’t as good as the magura, but I don’t have that bite light the maguras, and it is more tolerant of slight pressure changes and allows me to stay upright more easily.
Or, maybe it is the handle, and brake placement? I welded myself a new handle, similar to my old one ( http://picasaweb.google.com/corbin.dunn/UnicyclesAndParts/photo#5140592981573536594 ), but with a better angle like the one I made for Louise ( http://picasaweb.google.com/corbin.dunn/UnicyclesAndParts/photo#5140592951508765442 ). I mounted the brake on the right hand side, even though I’m (generally) a left hand handle person. It is also more directly in line with the handle, making it really easy to actuate. I should take a picture of the new handlebar sometime so people can see.
-corbin
Corbin - could you post a couple of pictures of your brake set-up? (If you did, I couldn’t find it.)
Yes – I’ll do that soon. And no, I haven’t done it yet.
The way I got the cable brake on the Nimbus 36 was to use some pipe clamps and a piece of 1/8" steel plate. I’m going to actually weld the steel plate on this weekend, now that I know I like the setup.
-corbin
You could try less abrasive pads on the Maguras or more abrasive on the mechanical ones (V-brakes?) to get some of that power back.
I’ve read that road race bikes were able to soften the initial bite by grinding off a bit of the pads on their disk brakes. I think it was the pad’s leading edge (so the back). Some teams also cut grooves in the pads to help keep them and the oil cool (I don’t remember if it was longitudinal w/ the disks or perpendicular to them).
Road race bikes with disk brakes? 
mmm, no real road racing bike is gonna have a disc brake
I took the guni out on a 25 mile ride today from Falls Church VA to Bethesda MD and back on several bike trails. My friend who usually joins me on his bike said that I was definitely faster on the guni than on my 36er. It definitely feels nicer to ride at faster speeds than pedaling really fast with the 36er. I was able to pass more bikers than usual and the low gear came in handy while riding in traffic in DC and dealing with pedestrians. I wish I had a cycle computer with me so I could know how fast I was going. Another plus about the guni is that I am able to fit it in my trunk! The coker never fit back there…I always had to put it in the back seat of the Corolla.
The right crank seems to be staying on a lot better now, but I get paranonid about crank arm bolts after I have been tightening them hard constantly. I don’t want to strip the bolt. This got me thinking that I should place an order for some spare parts with Schlumpf now while everything is working great…that way if I lose a button or a crank arm bolt is starting to seem like it is getting stripped I can replace it without having to wait for overseas shipping.