Thanks. I’ve decided to get a 24" unicycle now and do quite a bit of muni, trials and some light freestyle. Also I’ll keep doing the homemade northshore sort of things. I rode my friend’s 24" today and it felt great. The tyre was really bouncy and it was a lot faster because I had to pedal less. I could hop just as high on his 24" as on my 20" and I could still balance along ledges, etc. It was actually easier to still stand with and to wheel walk on.
Sorry to carry on so long with this post but I’m done now.
Good deal. Don’t worry about tacos with the 24" downhill MTB rims. It’s the 26" rims that taco after big drops. Just keep the spokes all tight. Even a Monty rim will self-destruct after a drop if the spokes are loose. I can’t recall anyone on the newsgroup bragging (or complaining) that they tacoed a 24" downhill rim.
The 24x3 has some advantages over the Monty when riding down stairs. It’s also easier to hop sideways up stairs on the 24x3 because the cranks won’t hit the stairs like they will on a Monty.
I’d avoid looking at aluminum unless the person building your frame is very familiar with building aluminum bike frames. If you decide to go with aluminum check out <http://www.muniac.com/> and talk to Scott Bridgman. Steel will handle being beat up more and banged on things.
Good luck on the custom frame. Post pictures of it when you get it done.
It felt easier compared to my 20" I think probably because there’s a bigger wheel and more room to put your feet. Because of this, you can take longer steps and wheel walk more smoothly. That’s what i think anyway. Those videos of you are awsome!
Thanks a lot John. Would you recommend 170mm Profile cranks or 145mm for my future 24" unicycle? I’ll put heaps of pictures into a gallery when it’s all done.
170mm cranks for trials on a 24x3. The extra length will give you more torque when jumping and landing on sloped surfaces (for example large boulders and other things that are not flat and square). With short cranks you would not be able to do still stands or adjustment hops on off-camber sloped uneven surfaces. The longer cranks also allow you to power yourself over other uneven things like curbs, rocks, roots, logs, etc.
Thanks. I went on my first ride with more than one other unicyclist yesterday. It was at the Great Brisbane Bike Ride I was talking about a while ago. For those people who were asking, I ending up only doing the 10km course because I was on a 20" and the other guys were doing the 10km. I learnt some new tricks and had heaps of fun. Anyway back to this topic, would 170mm cranks on a 24" wheel be better for these sorts of events than a 20" with 135mm cranks? It doesn’t have to be great for riding long distances but I would like it to be slightly better.
>Thanks. I went on my first ride with more than one other unicyclist
>yesterday. It was at the Great Brisbane Bike Ride I was talking about a
>while ago. For those people who were asking, I ending up only doing the
>10km course because I was on a 20" and the other guys were doing the
>10km. I learnt some new tricks and had heaps of fun. Anyway back to
>this topic, would 170mm cranks on a 24" wheel be better for these sorts
>of events than a 20" with 135mm cranks? It doesn’t have to be great for
>riding long distances but I would like it to be slightly better.
From the options you mention, for riding a 10 km on reasonably flat
terrain (or roads) I would suggest combining the 135 mm cranks with
the 24" wheel. Otherwise, 170 mm on 24" and 135 mm on 20" are about
equal I would say.
>Good deal. Don’t worry about tacos with the 24" downhill MTB rims.
It really depends what you are doing and what 24" rim you get. I tacoed a Sun
BFR rim, (after a couple of 7-8 foot drops) but I have had zero problems with
my Alex DX32.
