my custom Muni specs - need comments

I am going to have someone make a Muni frame for me. Below, is a list of some specs for the Muni.
Let me know what you think.
The frame will take my current 24" wheel with a Gazz 3.0 added and mounted on a SUN BFR containing Nokian tube.

side tire clearance: 3/8"
top tire clearance" 3/4" - 1"
seat post 27.2 or 25.4
seat post length (between 5" - 6")
seat post shimmed to fit the miyata seat post(can upgrade to bigger seat post later)
ovalized tubing for the fork
flat crown
crown width (less than 4.5")
main cap bearing holders (needed for existing wheel)
Wheel has Suzue hub
frame weight goal - <1.5 lbs.

I am trying to loose some weight off my Sem XLW frame which weighs 2.5 lbs.

I don’t expect to do drops more than 2 feet. I want to be able to hop on and over objects. Goal is to hop to bench height.

Thanks.

Hmmmmmm

This sounds fine, what material is the frame going to be made of? I am about to jump into the custom frame market myself and have it on good authority that bike grade tubing is best.

Note: the Wilder aluminium fork clocks in at 1.42 Lbs, without paint. A very well made crome alloy frame that is anieled properly can match this- but is rare. From what I have read, the streangth vs. weight are very close. However, many frame builders do not use the highest grade of tubing, or properly normalize the frame after brazing/welding- requiring the use of thicker material. The KH, for example, weighs in at 2.64. The weight goal might be unrealistic.

Christopher

steel is real!

cromolly tubing is the best, can be welded to the main cap bearing holders no probs, and steel can be rewelded, bent, dimpled etc without worrying to much about the brittleness of aluminimun!

James

ps, ovalised tubing costs about twice to three times the amount of standard circular, my advice, get circular, and clamp the ends to oval for better welding and tyre clearance,

my 2 cents

Re: steel is real!

However, if weight is a concern, pro ovalized tubing is drawn to shape- making it stronger and allowing the use of thiner stock. BTW: with properly worked aluminium, cracking is not much of a concern compared to impact resistance. The Wilders seem to have had no issue in this regard.

Christopher

Re: my custom Muni specs - need comments

Hi,

On Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:31:31 -0500 rhysling
<rhysling.3d5kz@timelimit.unicyclist.com> writes:
>
> Note: the Wilder aluminium fork clocks in at 1.42 Lbs, without
> paint.
Another option is to use one of Chris Reeder’s proven designs
(www.reeder.unicyclist.com) I own mud frame #2. It’s final weight was
only 1.49 lbs. and much more inexpensive than the Wilder, even after I
had it powder coated. If you want the cut sheet for either the Ears frame
or the Thudbuster uni I can email those to you. BTW, the Ears frame and
Thudbuster frame are the same except for the seatpost diameter.

Jeff Tuttle


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Great job, Jeff! Could you, or have you, posted pictures?

Christopher

Re: my custom Muni specs - need comments

Christopher,
I didn’t make it, Chris did. I really love it. Yes, there at the
unicyclist.com gallery under “Adventure’s photos”. I’ll post more
pictures soon and also a video of a 50cm jump (I have a 56k modem,
ughhhh!). Maybe tonight they’ll be up.

Jeff


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Mad muniac had asked about the exact tubing. I still don’t know.
During the next few weeks, I will nail that down with the frame builder.

Jeff,

I was actually trying to find you and email you to get a review of the chris reeder Muni that you have. I originally was going to copy Chris’ design. I had even sent the builder the link for the cut sheets, but in recent weeks I have been intrigued by measuring out my own design and then having that built. It is all in the works, and we may go back to Chris’ design.

I am glad you like the frame. Any frame flex with it and can you suggest any improvements?

Work the maze.

I’m not getting any action on the other thread so I’ll try here. Where can I get main cap bearing housings? Should I make them myself, or is there a good place to buy them.

Re: my custom Muni specs - need comments

On Wed, 24 Apr 2002 23:42:06 -0500 The Munieer
<The.Munieer.3nfhm@timelimit.unicyclist.com> writes:
> Jeff,
>
> I was actually trying to find you and email you to get a review of
> the
> chris reeder Muni that you have. I originally was going to copy
> Chris’
> design. I had even sent the builder the link for the cut sheets,
> but
> in recent weeks I have been intrigued by measuring out my own
> design
> and then having that built. It is all in the works, and we may go
> back
> to Chris’ design.
>
> I am glad you like the frame. Any frame flex with it and can you
> suggest any improvements?
Hi,
I love my muni. It is the only uni I ride regularly for the past
year. I have not noticed any frame flex. It is very stiff and sturdy. I
especially like the crown design because it provides a good platform for
my foot during 1foot riding and idling. With the indentations, it is very
narrow but still will accept a 3" Gazz. I only hit the frame with my leg
during very steep downhills, and even then it only is slightly
noticeable. My only suggestion to improve it would be to completely seal
the top of the fork, so water can’t get in there. It’s not that big of a
deal, though; I just regularly spray WD-40 down the tubing to prevent
rust. I just put up pictures www.unicyclist.com/gallery/adventure/ and
will add more soon. Someone else on this list built the “ears” design
using stainlesss steel, and I believe it turned out nicely.
One cool thing about a custom built frame is the options when
painting. I took my frame to a local powder coating shop and had it
painted bright red. I was amazed at the number of colors available. I
chose red because it was a standard color that could be included with a
larger order that the shop had. This way I was able to drop the cost and
time.

Jeff T.


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Re: my custom Muni specs - need comments

>I just regularly spray WD-40 down the tubing to prevent rust.

I don’t think WD-40 is a good rust preventative. It may even promote
rust. WD-40 is made to dissolve rust, not prevent. Please correct me
if I’m wrong about this.

Use a good mineral oil instead.

BTW: In my previous post, I should have noted that plating requires an
absolutely clean surface, otherwise the plating may later peel off, if
it forms at all.

Sincerely,

Ken Fuchs <kfuchs@winternet.com>

Re: my custom Muni specs - need comments

“Ken Fuchs” <kfuchs@winternet.com> wrote in message
> I don’t think WD-40 is a good rust preventative. It may even promote
> rust. WD-40 is made to dissolve rust, not prevent. Please correct me
> if I’m wrong about this.
>
> Use a good mineral oil instead.

Good advice about the mineral oil. However, WD-40 is a water displacing lubricant. If the water is displaced away from the surface (which is the claim of WD-40) then rust should be prevented.

Here’s what WD-40 claims to do (info obtained from the label on a 9.3 fl. oz. can of WD-40):

Lubricates
Moving parts such as:
a… Hinges
b… Wheels
c… Rollers
d… Chains
e… Gears
Cleans
Most surfaces of:
a… Grease
b… Grime
c… Tar
d… Adhesives
e… Gum
f… Tape
g… Crayon
h… Scuff Marks
i… Water Deposits
Protects
Against rust and corrosion, items like:
a… Tools
b… Firearms
c… Sporting Equpment
Penetrates
To free stuck parts, like:
a… Nuts
b… Bolts
c… Valves
d… Locks
Displaces Moisture
To restore wet or flooded equipment, such as:
a… Engines
b… Spark Plugs
c… Power Tools
Additionally WD-40 is authorized by the U.S. Department of Agriculture for use in Federally inspected meat and poultry plants. About the only bad thing about WD-40 is that it is flammable (to some this may be considered a good thing), and it is harmful or fatal if ingested. Also, deliberate or direct inhalation of WD-40 mist may be harmful or fatal.

Perhaps this is more info than you cared to know but hey, I’m a big fan of WD-40!

If this didn’t satiate your appetite for WD-40 information you can learn more at http://www.wd40.com

-mg

Jeff,

Thanks for replying to my queery. Sounds great to me.

Gauss,

You can get main cap bearing holders through Unicycle.com. I just bought them. They are on the website. I think they’re down at the bottom of frame parts and they are about 10 bucks as I remember. Just call them if you want 1- 800- Unicycle.

Hope that helps.

Work the maze.