Munibar: The making of a Mountain Uni Handlebar

Howdy! I posted a very detailed posting on my blog about a new handlebar I made for my geared muni:

Please see the link above for details, but I’ll also copy a few pictures below. The blog also has the sketchup file for you to download and play with the design in 3d.

Overall, I like the design; it works well for steep hills. The drawback is that it is difficult to brake with, and I think I got finer grained control with the spooner and the plastic seat handle.


Interesting set up.

I agree with you in your blog post, I think more of an angle would work better - the handle holds look too flat.

I need to find some friends nearby that weld! I really like that road handlebar you made for your geared 36.

Yeah, that one works great! I wouldn’t mind adjustability, which is what I was trying to fix with this version by attaching bar ends (which aren’t welded on yet – I just ordered a set to play with).


Corbin, prior to RTL, I copied Jim’s (munivision) handle setup, and what you’ve got there is a fair duplicate, up to a point.

Picture is from Jim’s thread, and you can see it’s a T-bar and two pegs.

I had an alum. plate drilled to fit the front four seat base bolts. Then a chunk of alum. 10 speed handlebar welded on as the lower curved piece, like you have, and then capped with a short T-bar. Onto this T-bar, I mounted a bike aerobar, instead of pegs, facing forward, and it makes for a nice handle for the coker. (see lower pic)

Looking at this latest handle of yours, you’ve essentially made the same T-bar Jim and I have, with two added horizontal pieces going from the T part to the seat. If you made one with just the T, couldn’t you replace those welded-on handles with bar ends? Or is that what you’d planned?

Seeing what you’ve done, I realize I could have a nice compact muni handle with just a set of rearward-pointing bar ends. I believe that T-shape is very versatile, offering many options for different kinds of riding.

Yeah, his design was some of the inspiration for me to create a new handlebar.

Ultimately adding a T slot in the front was my plan; I really want both things — an extendable handlebar in the front, and some backward facing bar ends pointing towards the seat. The ones close to the seat are great for steep hill climbs, while the forward extensions are great for long distance riding. But you have a GREAT point I didn’t think of; why not add in BOTH! I could have a small set of bar ends pointing backwards, and a set pointing forwards. That would give a lot more adjustment options. This would also allow adding in (or removing) the plastic handlebar depending on what one desires for a particular ride.

I’ll try welding that up as my next project. I really need a TIG welder so I can stick some alum together, but I don’t yet want to fork out the $1k to get a good one.



Since you are working with steel components, how do you finish them to avoid rust?

Do you do anything special to weld them? What type of welding rod do you use? What type of tubing do you start with?

I agree that a TIG torch would be nice but they are $$$. I have an oxy-acetylene setup that would work for steel parts. Any advice you have would be appreciated.

In theory you can weld Aluminum with oxy-hydrogen, but TIG works so much better these half-measures are probably not worth the bother.