Muni questions.

Ok, so I am now 90% positive that I’m getting a Muni as soon as I can afford it.(in like 2.5 months)

This is what I have,

frame and wheelset-
tryall 24" rim
Profile hub
Profile 145 cranks
KH 24" frame
duro wildlife
magura brakes w/ steel hose
atomlab pedals
DH tube
14 gauge stainless steel spokes

saddle and seatpost-

it will either be nimbus gel seat w/ KH seatpost,
or nimbus gel padding, Kh cover, SW CF derail base and deathgrip handle.

should I get the deathgrip and CF base?

also, Will my lbs be able to do they wheelbuild and assemble/put on the brake?


if you lbs isnt wallmart they should be able to handle it. ask them they would know best wether they could do it not us

That would be cool, why don’t you just get the KH freeride though? I am pretty sure I have heard the KH rim is stronger than the tryall (but the tryall is lighter). The KH hub/cranks are lighter than profiles too, some people bend them but I doubt you would do much damage with all your 80lbs;)
Your combo would be pretty awesome though, just probably more money so do whatever you want.

You should ask your LBS if they can do the wheel build. Most of them can but some are alot better than others.

  1. I like the tryall rim because it’s lighter, wider, and looks cooler than the KH.

  2. profiles have 145mm. cranks(what I want, and have a lifetime warranty) they also look pretty.

  3. I hate the weird seatpost thingy that comes on the KH freeride, and I prefer the gel saddle anyway.

also, is it worth going to CF?
and, I’m going up to my lbs sometime this week to pick up a new seatpost and a air pump.

Have you ever had problems with plastic bases?

kind of. The flex is annoying, and I don’t like the handles very much.

I’m not sure if it’s worth spending about $250 on a CF base and handle.
The CF base has nice sif grips, and a very nice ergonomic handle, but I don’t know if it’s $250 nice. Also, It allows tilting to extreme angles wich is good.

I don’t know:(

The tilting can be nice, you can do that a rail adapter if you don’t get the swallis base. There is that other CF base on UDC and it is only $80 (thats what I have). I think the swallis is better but it all depends on how much money you have/want to spend.

To use the S wallis base youre going to need the cover and foam from another seat anyway, so you might aswell buy a stock seat, see how it goes and if you don’t like it or you snap it then upgrade to the swallis base. You’ve got to buy a stock seat for those components so you may as well try it for a while.

Any bike shop should do the wheelbuild fine, smaller independent ones are more likely to take on the challenge than large chains though, who often can’t be bothered with anything that isn’t standard. You could save some cash by building the wheel yourself, and then having the bike shop true it, getting all the spokes in the right place isn’t too hard, follow Sheldon Brown’s online tutorial.

Brakes are easy to install on a uni, unless you need to get the pipes cut down, where you will need the help of a bike shop. Usually you can wrap the tube round the stem of your frame to take up any excess.

Sounds like it’s going to be a great Muni!

One thisng you shoudl remember is that when the LBS builds your wheel tethem to tension it just a little tighter than the average wheel. I noticed that bicycle wheels arent as tensioned as uni wheels most times. So just ask tell tham that it needs to be a little tighter tha a regulaer wheel.

ok thanks.

also, would this brake lever mounty thingy work with magura’s and a nimbus gel seat?

also, if I use a KH hub and 15mm. cranks, will this work fine seeing as I’m 80 punds and am not doing 8’ drops?

It should but im not going to say for sure. And you do kno that shipping all of this stuff from germany is going to cost a fortune right?

wow, sorry about all the posts in a row…

also, does anyone know when the new Kh 24" frame coming out in the U.S.?

well, all I’m going to get from germany is the rim, a koxx seatclamp, the brake thingy, and rim tape.


also, is more or less angle better for MUni cranks?

What do you mean by angle?? Q-factor?. Id say that less is better cuz you wont wobble as much but the KH cranks will be fine.

yea, q factor. I didn’t want to start a big argument.

are there any advantages to more?

More is not necessarily better, but some Q-factor is better for muni. People are different though, and will have their own opinions.

I’d recommend getting a KH wheel set instead of profiles. You don’t have to worry about them bending or breaking at all with you. I weigh 140 pounds and have done up to 6 foot drops on Torker DX and Qu-Ax hub and cranks and they are fine. Besides, the KH/Onza is plenty strong.

Also, have you had much experience with 24" muni’s? I would say 145’s are a little short, especially with a 3" tire. Unless you just do light muni and not very steep hills, then 145’s are fine. Other wise they are more work, and less stable and controllable on technical terrain.

ok, if I get the Kh cranks/hub, I’ll get 150mm cranks. Also, I’m getting a brake.