This was way overdue!
(If you have any questions about the various procedures, just ask.) 
Uhhh what was the paste you put on the steel wool pad to clean those cranks up?
Why not buy new bumpers or is your method better / cheaper?
That was brasso, and the (rear) “bumper” is custom carbon fiber by Scott Wallis, so much cheaper to repair than replace. He also made the front “Death Grip” lift handle and seat base, which are also both CF. 
You might be better off with a miyata bumper. That’s what I use with my wallis base because when I had a CF bumper, the whole back edge wore down and cracked. The miyata bumpers don’t appear to be on udc anymore, but they were only a few dollars. Maybe they still have some. Plastic bumpers are way better if your seat hits the ground often.
The rear CF bumper has actually held up amazingly well for all the technical riding I’ve done, since I bought almost three years ago! The part that broke was due to it hitting an especially sharp rock during a steep technical descent. And the death grip is still perfectly intact with a few scratches but no damage at all! Can’t complain given the fact that I ride almost every day and it’s lasted this long!
Nice, I don’t remember how long mine lasted but it wasn’t that long. Maybe its because I ride (and drop my seat) on concrete more than you do. This is what mine ended up looking like http://tinyurl.com/yf222l8.
Doesn’t look too bad. You should be able seal that with marine epoxy or jb weld, and then after you paint it, maybe put a thing rubber liner on the outside.
I could have fixed it, but I think I sent it back to Scott (it was a couple years ago). The plastic one holds up better and is super cheap though.
Since the bumper cracked where it did, it flexed a lot and ended up not supporting my seat base so my carbon base broke in the back also (a big chunk of the back edge fell off). Scott fixed it for me once then it broke again, so far my super glue is holding up 
Too bad they don’t make the miyata bumper anymore, unless you know where to get them. I’ll have to contact Scott; he had told me that you can also but an adapter that will allow the standard kh plastic bumper to fit the cf base.
Yep, you can use a KH bumper, it isn’t nearly as wide as Scott’s or the miyata though so I’m not sure if the curved sides of the base are in more danger of hitting the ground. I assume it would be fine.
I’m curious to see if the newer KH bumpers will fit Scott’s bases. The new bumper looks a lot more like the miyata (it is deeper and wider than the old ones).
If your CF bumper is still working fine there’s no need to replace it, but if you had to and couldn’t find a miyata and didn’t want to use a spacer+kh bumper you could try to find a torker lx bumper because it is the same shape as the miyata.
Now that I think of it, I’m pretty sure Joe Lind (compulsion cycles) has some miyata bumpers, so if you wanted one he would be a good one to talk to. You might be stuck with a strange color though.
This came out nicely; very rigid and strong, yet not at all brittle, so it should hold up pretty well. I used marine epoxy which is what I use for bridge repairs on pianos. It’s like steel when it fully cures. You can see the outline of where the broken part was. It’s backed with aluminum tape. It’ll be sanded and painted mon-yawna, just in time for a Sunday MUni adventure! 
Cool! You are very quick at taking your muni apart, I suppose its just experience. I changed my cranks for the first time. It was very dificult to put the new cranks on properly.
Aww, I was going to use “John The Fisherman” in my next video! I’ll need to go with my Plan B now…
You have good taste in music.
I’m only quick because of the editing, haha. But taking bearings off the isis hub isn’t really that hard. I spray the area first with lubricant, than use the pitman puller. Comes off pretty easy. I use a big screw driver for leverage and to spin the wheel while holdoing the pitman with a wrench.
You could still use it, since this wasn’t a riding video.
Nice little video Terry. Cool to see the process, and the end result 
I recently also did a bit of DIY on my Uni changing the colour and it was cool fun.
Being new to Muni, as Terry could tell, I havent a clue as to maintenance…
How often should I replace bearings (once a year was my thought)
How often and how should I clean and lube the berarings and with ____?
Lubricate pedals? with _______
Any other advice / instructions?
Tire pressure? Or does this go by rider / weight
Here’s a shot of the finished cf bumper, after repair and painting. The part that had broken out was on the left side. Not bad, but I guess I’ll know how sturdy the repair is on the next few upd’s!
Your bearings are “sealed” but still can get dirty if the hub gets submerged in/or exposed to water, mud and so on, and they can also seize up from rusting. If the bearings stay dry, they should last a fairly long time, and they are pretty much maintenance-free.
You’ll know when it’s time to replace them when you feel resistance and “grinding” when you spin the wheel. Tire pressure is very subjective, but my main rule of thumb is, when riding more extreme MUni, drops and stuff, you want your tire (preferably 24x3) psi to be enough so you won’t bottom out on the rim and pinch flat it, but not so much psi that you can’t get compression and “spring” for drops, jumps and rolling over rough terrain.
For coker riding, I like higher psi for less rolling resistance. best to experiment with it, and I go by “feel” not a specific psi reading.
It’s a great start for sure. Now if you could do something about all of that exposed aluminum on your pedals. TBH I can’t believe you didn’t finish the job.
Disclaimer:
The preceding post was intended as sarcasm. If it either resembled, or was identical to posts that have valid points it is entirely coincidental and the author claims no responsibility for such similarities.