MUni frame performance?

Not that I’m good enough to tell yet, but what is the performance difference between a $50 chrome uni frame and a $450 blue painted uni frame? I have the chrome cheapie and of course lust after the cool blue frame, but am having a hard time rationalizing any reason that it could be worth that much more. Perhaps a bit lighter? Chicks dig’em? I’m just talking about frame to frame - no additional components.

there isn’t too much difference

i think you’re looking at the KH pro frame, which is a hand made frame that came out before there were quality, mass produced, frames.

You’re paying a premium for hand made frames (that’s why hunter, dm, gb4, etc. frames are more, they have slightly more innovative designs, and are way cool, and if you live in california you’re supporting the local economy buying a hunter, but it’s the hand-made-ness that costs more)

The KH '05 Aluminum frame that comes on the '05 KHs is great because it’s strong but also lighter, and it’s more mass-produced.

Darren Bedford, who i got my KH from, is going to sell the KH frames for i think USD $125 on their own. This is a great price for a great frame.
(www.bedfordunicycles.ca)

if you have the cash, i’d go for the aluminum frame if you’re doing trials or muni, if you’re just doing freestyle, go w/ a quality, low-crown frame, doesn’t need to be too light or anything though for freestyle

EDIT: just realized that you were talking about muni frames
in that case, you should REALLY try and get a KH if you want an awesome frame, or if you have a lot of dough ($325 or so) get a Hunter!!!

Re: MUni frame performance?

Um, maybe you feel guilty about not riding when you spend $400 more?

I believe all you get for the money is a slightly lighter frame. I doubt a few dozen ounces of metal is going to make a huge difference in your riding, or mine, or anyone’s for that matter. The day I absolutely need to spend that much money on a frame, I’ll eat my old Yuni. And I won’t even wash it first :slight_smile:

I saw a lot of folks at CMW with super-mondo expensive anodized aluminum frames. And I saw a lot of those folks suck wind as I flew by them on the trails on my Made-In-China masterpiece of singletrack-slaying-on-a-budget CroMoly steel.

I think people like the way the expensive frames look, and some of 'em prolly like to brag that they’re made of aircraft aluminum and are precision milled and blah blah blah, but it’ll sit in their garage most of the time, and never be ridden very hard for fear of damaging the nice paint job. It’s like the same folks who buy an SUV and never take it off the pavement.

Don’t get sucked into the hype. Take your frame and have it powder coated for $30-50, or if you wanna go super budget, give it a good sanding and rattle-can it a few times. There, your ride’s pimped.

That extra $400 you’ll save can go towards another uni. Or plane tickets to the next two muni weekend events of your choice. Or a lot of beer and pretzels!

sell sell

whoo hoo…that must be why i need to sell the Hunter/Muniac hub combo. i’ve been brainstorming but thats the best reason yet.

Early this morning Eyal and I rode Saddle Rock–the hardest trail in Santa Barbara, not so much a single track as a 2 miles natural trials gauntlet. Eyal got a flat straighaway and had to go with a back up Muni, a real piece of crap. The only good feature was the Duro tire. And on this Eyal laid down his best effort on Saddle, "flashing " many of the hardest sections. I got a pimped out Lyterider with Profile hub and Willis air seat and I could barely keep up.

It’s the rider, not the rig . . .

JL

Yes, but confidence plays a factor. I wouldn’t want to do high exposure trails on a set of lasco’s, since I wouldn’t be able to trust that they wouldn’t catastrophically break in a spot where I couldn’t afford to fall.

The above applies to just about every component on a uni EXCEPT the frame, though, since nearly all the frames onthe market are quality built or overbuilt. Just ride a Yuni frame until you break it. Eventually you’ll need a nicer frame since you’ll need a bigger seatpost, but you can still buy cheap in the 27.2 size. Or just make friends with someone who’s making a lot of nice frames but isn’t ready to start selling them. You may get a freebee.

There aren’t a lot of significant performance differences between a basic muni frame like a Yuni frame or Bedford frame and the more expensive and fancy frames. A Yuni or Bedford frame makes for a perfectly adequate muni.

The more expensive frames do offer some advantages though.

Machined bearing holders hold the bearings better. The stamped steel bearing holders like on the Yuni can rock and move a little bit on the bearing when riding hard. That causes frame flex and the wheel to move around. Machined bearing holders also hold the bearing more evenly and in a more perfect circle. That makes life easier on the bearing and can lead to the bearing lasting longer and spinning better.

The more expensive frames can be had with larger diameter seatposts that will fit high quality standard bicycle seatposts. A 27.2mm seatpost has more surface area than a 22.2mm seatpost. More surface area means more clamping area which means the seatpost can be held more securely. A good frame with a good seatpost should never twist on you. I have never had my seatpost twist or slip on my KH Pro muni. It is very nice to not have to realign the seat after a UPD. Being able to use a high quality seatpost like the Thomson is also a big plus. Being able to hold the seatpost securely with a good single bolt seatpost clamp or a good quick release clamp (Salsa) is also a big bonus. Some lesser frames require that you use a two bolt BMX seatpost clamp to keep the seatpost secure. I use a Salsa quick release on my muni and the seatpost has never slipped.

The interior of the seat tube is also important. Some of the cheap frames have a rough and uneven interior where the seatpost fits in. Some have weld splatter and chrome splatter inside there. That makes it difficult for the seatpost to fit properly and difficult for the seatpost clamp to clamp well. A good frame will have a nice smooth interior that is properly sized to hold the seatpost. That’s why good frames hold the seatpost better than cheap frames.

Some frames can be more of a knee kocker than other frames. Some frames have sharp angles or edges up at the crown. Those sharp angles or edges can hurt if your knee hits them. The new KH frames are narrow up at the crown and the frame is angled so that it is more knee friendly.

There are differences between the basic inexpensive frames and the more expensive frames and custom frames. The differences aren’t huge but they’re there. For some people the differences are worth the extra cost.

beyond the function is the fact that the better frames are made in countries other than Asia…Budda love Asia but the home-grown frames are better.

there is somthing about riding a frame that was build by somone in your own country.

has homeland been mentiond yet here?

In my opinion the new KH frame is just about as perfect an all rounder as you’ll get.

Kris and I spent a lot of time talking about ideal frame shape for a unicycle and came up with the rounded edge to the square frame and the new hub.

It’s amazingly like the first prototype crown with the addition only of some tabs to help hold the foot when WW etc.

It’s not as highly specialised as the Hunter or my own Blizzard frames but as an all round toy it rocks.