Why would shorter cranks be good for steep hills?
I can get up most hills fine on my 29" with 125 cranks, but I assume it would be easier on 150 cranks. That being said, I am happy with the 125 cranks.
I can idle it, but I am not very good at it yet. I can idle a 24" easily, but that is the one I have worked with. The 29" just needs some practice.
My KH29 is my primary uni. It is fast on pavement with a slick tire, and I love it for muni, XC and technical. I tend to not do a lot of hopping, so the 29 is good for blasting over rocky sections. I just got a KH36, so I may be riding the 29 less on the hardtop. I am also ordering the freeride rim for the 29 (even though I find I can ride the tech stuff pretty well with the standard rim, hoping the wider rim will give a smoother ride on the bumps). I can idle on the 29 and do some limited hopping (I mostly make use of rolling hops to clear larger obstacles).
Oh yeah, I have dual-hole cranks (150-125). I use the 150 for muni, and 125 for around town.
Sorry, I meant longer. 
How much stronger and how much lighter? Will it come in 26"?
i will be a minimum of a pound lighter, well, a little over a pound at least. I know the frame itself is a pound lighter than the previous frames. I can’t say for sure how much stronger, havn’t ridden it, but the frame is better. it will have ISIS hub so thats stronger and lighter. 20" has a street/trials seat on it, so thats way better than the original saddles. cranks are rectangular, so as far as weight goes with cranks, can’t say, but i certainly hope the cranks will be stronger. when i get my test model, i plan on pushing it hard. and i don’t think there will be a 26". me personally, i like the 24 better. but we never talked about a 26. i can mention it to them though.
is the kh 24 on bedfords site the 08?
Call them, but probably.
Seat Height?
Hi all
I new to both Muni, and Unicycling. Loving it and making good progress now I have free mounting under control and am completing a light XC course with fewer UPD on each ride.
I’m just wondering how you all set up your saddle height for muni? I currently have mine so that my legs are near full extension at the bottom of the pedal stroke and I am wondering if I should lower it?
Thanks for your help.
YES, definetly lower it. you don’t have near the stability with you legs fully extended. you want to seat around you waist hieght or so. if you legs are fully extended it is much much harder to catch yourself if a bump or rock throughs you off. start by putting the seat by waist, and kinda start from there to what is comfortable, but you just don’t want you legs extended like that.
Hopping on 29er is not easy, the tires don’t have the volume and you’re already way up in the air, so it’s a little precarious. Think of the 29er as a XC muni which can be ridden in extreme conditions if the rider knows what they are doing. For the average rider, a 29er is much less versatile and harder to ride off road than a 26 or 24.
If you watch videos of extreme muni and think to yourself, “I’d like to ride like that some day”, then you are not going to get there on a 29er unless you’re already there on a 24".
In all honesty, most people have two unis, one for around town and one for muni. If you do trials, then make that three unis 
I have a 26 x 3 that I ride for muni, which is fine ride for me, but I still have a 24 x 3 in case I want to tackle hard stuff, though I’m thinking that the 26er is not that much harder to ride than the 24er.
They all have their pros and cons. A 24 x 3 is the most versatile, so probably the best choice if you can only have one uni. A 29er would be better for someone who is riding pavement and the occasional low tech off-road jaunt, so 80 on-road/20 off-road.
The difference in height for a given crank length between a 29er and 24x3 is only 2 inches. Sure, a 29er feels higher, but you make it sound like much more than it really is.
And, I disagree with your assessment that the 29er is much less versatile for “an average rider.” The first two unicycles I bought after the one I learned on were a KH24 and a square taper hubbed 29er. With less than a year experience riding, I actually enjoyed the 29er with a Nanoraptor (light offroad tire) for riding (relatively non-technical) dirt trails because it wasn’t as sluggish as the 24x3 tire on my KH24 and because I didn’t yet have enough skill to even try the trails that necessitate a 24x3 tire. In fact I even thought about selling the KH24 because I enjoyed the 29er so much more, and only after ~3 years of riding did I start to experience the real benefit of a 3" wide tire.
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The difference in height for a given crank length between a 29er and 24x3 is only 2 inches. Sure, a 29er feels higher, but you make it sound like much more than it really is.
The difference between a 24X3 and a 29X2.1 is actually about 3 inches and the sidewalls of 29r tires require you to run higher psi and IMO there is a huge difference for anything more tech than a fire road.
Thanks for that, my saddle is at waist height, I guess we have different stats… So shall I start by lowering my saddle by one inch and experiment from there?
In my experience, for non-MUni, road riding I’ve got the saddle height set up such that when I’m pedaling and the crank is in the 6 O’clock position (i.e. straight down), there is just a slight bend in my leg (much like you’d adjust to if you were on a bicycle). However for MUni, at least for me, I’ve got the saddle height adjusted a bit lower than that; enough so that with the cranks are horizontal and I stand up over the saddle I’ve got enough clearance so that I can effectively squat and jump. That last bit is a sweet spot you’ll just have to experiment with. If you adjust the saddle too low, your legs will bend too much while normal riding, yet you’ll have a lot of room to squat and jump when the cranks are horizontal (this is more of the trials set up). On the other hand, adjust the saddle too high you won’t have much squat and jump room when standing, yet you’ll have a better riding adjustment. It takes time and fitness to get this right. It used to be with the configuration I have now that my legs would tire out quicker because they were bending more than in a road riding configuration. However I adapted and I wouldn’t change a thing now. Good luck!
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I agree that the feel and style of riding on the same trail for a 24 and 29 are very different. The ride is firmer, but yes, you can ride more than fire roads on a 29. Check out my 29er video thread.
yes, you should lower it just where you legs are bent, how bent is up to you. In my experience of riding, the more bent your legs are on rougher stuff, the more stability you have. you just don’t want you legs fully extended. otherwise, depending on what kind of terrain you ride and where your comfort level is, thats up to you.
Were I ride ussauly there is many cool structures, I really like it when I ride a structure I haven’t riden before, espiecialy if I have wanted to do it before but haven’t had the guts:)
How many other Muni riders have North Shore style structures were they ride normaly?
Living on the North Shore itself, it’s hard to find a trail that does not contain structures!
Hi, I am planning to get a Nimbus 26" unicycle soon, and had a question about crank length. Nimbus Venture cranks come in 125mm and 150mm. Would it be impossible to handle the unicycle with 125mm cranks? I am planning to use the unicycle for road riding, muni and maybe a little bit of street.
As long as you are on flat ground the 125’s should be ok. As soon as you go off road you’ll be more successful with 150’s or longer.