Call them, but probably.
Seat Height?
Hi all
I new to both Muni, and Unicycling. Loving it and making good progress now I have free mounting under control and am completing a light XC course with fewer UPD on each ride.
I’m just wondering how you all set up your saddle height for muni? I currently have mine so that my legs are near full extension at the bottom of the pedal stroke and I am wondering if I should lower it?
Thanks for your help.
YES, definetly lower it. you don’t have near the stability with you legs fully extended. you want to seat around you waist hieght or so. if you legs are fully extended it is much much harder to catch yourself if a bump or rock throughs you off. start by putting the seat by waist, and kinda start from there to what is comfortable, but you just don’t want you legs extended like that.
Hopping on 29er is not easy, the tires don’t have the volume and you’re already way up in the air, so it’s a little precarious. Think of the 29er as a XC muni which can be ridden in extreme conditions if the rider knows what they are doing. For the average rider, a 29er is much less versatile and harder to ride off road than a 26 or 24.
If you watch videos of extreme muni and think to yourself, “I’d like to ride like that some day”, then you are not going to get there on a 29er unless you’re already there on a 24".
In all honesty, most people have two unis, one for around town and one for muni. If you do trials, then make that three unis 
I have a 26 x 3 that I ride for muni, which is fine ride for me, but I still have a 24 x 3 in case I want to tackle hard stuff, though I’m thinking that the 26er is not that much harder to ride than the 24er.
They all have their pros and cons. A 24 x 3 is the most versatile, so probably the best choice if you can only have one uni. A 29er would be better for someone who is riding pavement and the occasional low tech off-road jaunt, so 80 on-road/20 off-road.
The difference in height for a given crank length between a 29er and 24x3 is only 2 inches. Sure, a 29er feels higher, but you make it sound like much more than it really is.
And, I disagree with your assessment that the 29er is much less versatile for “an average rider.” The first two unicycles I bought after the one I learned on were a KH24 and a square taper hubbed 29er. With less than a year experience riding, I actually enjoyed the 29er with a Nanoraptor (light offroad tire) for riding (relatively non-technical) dirt trails because it wasn’t as sluggish as the 24x3 tire on my KH24 and because I didn’t yet have enough skill to even try the trails that necessitate a 24x3 tire. In fact I even thought about selling the KH24 because I enjoyed the 29er so much more, and only after ~3 years of riding did I start to experience the real benefit of a 3" wide tire.
[QUOTE=phlegm;1244225]
The difference in height for a given crank length between a 29er and 24x3 is only 2 inches. Sure, a 29er feels higher, but you make it sound like much more than it really is.
The difference between a 24X3 and a 29X2.1 is actually about 3 inches and the sidewalls of 29r tires require you to run higher psi and IMO there is a huge difference for anything more tech than a fire road.
Thanks for that, my saddle is at waist height, I guess we have different stats… So shall I start by lowering my saddle by one inch and experiment from there?
In my experience, for non-MUni, road riding I’ve got the saddle height set up such that when I’m pedaling and the crank is in the 6 O’clock position (i.e. straight down), there is just a slight bend in my leg (much like you’d adjust to if you were on a bicycle). However for MUni, at least for me, I’ve got the saddle height adjusted a bit lower than that; enough so that with the cranks are horizontal and I stand up over the saddle I’ve got enough clearance so that I can effectively squat and jump. That last bit is a sweet spot you’ll just have to experiment with. If you adjust the saddle too low, your legs will bend too much while normal riding, yet you’ll have a lot of room to squat and jump when the cranks are horizontal (this is more of the trials set up). On the other hand, adjust the saddle too high you won’t have much squat and jump room when standing, yet you’ll have a better riding adjustment. It takes time and fitness to get this right. It used to be with the configuration I have now that my legs would tire out quicker because they were bending more than in a road riding configuration. However I adapted and I wouldn’t change a thing now. Good luck!
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I agree that the feel and style of riding on the same trail for a 24 and 29 are very different. The ride is firmer, but yes, you can ride more than fire roads on a 29. Check out my 29er video thread.
yes, you should lower it just where you legs are bent, how bent is up to you. In my experience of riding, the more bent your legs are on rougher stuff, the more stability you have. you just don’t want you legs fully extended. otherwise, depending on what kind of terrain you ride and where your comfort level is, thats up to you.
Were I ride ussauly there is many cool structures, I really like it when I ride a structure I haven’t riden before, espiecialy if I have wanted to do it before but haven’t had the guts:)
How many other Muni riders have North Shore style structures were they ride normaly?
Living on the North Shore itself, it’s hard to find a trail that does not contain structures!
Hi, I am planning to get a Nimbus 26" unicycle soon, and had a question about crank length. Nimbus Venture cranks come in 125mm and 150mm. Would it be impossible to handle the unicycle with 125mm cranks? I am planning to use the unicycle for road riding, muni and maybe a little bit of street.
As long as you are on flat ground the 125’s should be ok. As soon as you go off road you’ll be more successful with 150’s or longer.
I really like 160s on my 26 when using a 3" tire but 150s feel about right with a skinnier tire like a 2.3. 125 would be good for on the road and could be fun on the trail if you are a finesse rider.
Keep in mind that crank lengths are a really personal, what works for some does not work for others, mostly you just have to experiment. The Qu-Ax cranks are great cheep cranks to experiment with.
I bent the 150 venture…but I am a heavy hard landing guy.
I would go in between 135 / 140mm, but for more road or XC 125mm
I’d get the dual hole KH cranks. Best of both worlds.
I preffer longer cranks, so if it were me I’d get 165/137.
I second the dual hole suggestion. I have 125/150 mm and used 125 for one of my first “real” Muni rides. It went quite well (I was used to 125 mm at that time) and my friend commented that he was surprised at how well I could keep up. However, I tried the 150 mm cranks after that and found that I gained a lot of control - everything became much easier, and I didn’t waste as much energy. After that I always use 150 mm for more “serious” Muni.
In short - 125 mm worked for me, but I found 150 mm to be much nicer for Muni. The dual hole cranks are very nice if you switch between road and Muni.
Nice, advice from 165 all the way down to 125’s!
I prefer the 137 hole on my dual-hole moments on my 26er with 3" Duro. The 165 seems to be so slow. If I rode more hills maybe I’d switch but usually not.
Thanks for all the great advice, everyone! I think I’ll be going with 137mm cranks.