MUni discussion thread

So do you mean 24" tire or 24" rim? The riding you described suggests 24" rim with a beefy tire that’s probably 26.

to John’s question yes i mean a 24" rim. the tire may come out to 26 but who really measures or worries about that? I love the 24 because its the best all around wheel size that can do most everything, its just not the best at any one thing if you really think about it. its right in the middle of everything, thats why its so great.

Go 29" you will love the speed and the flow and it hasnt ever stopped me from trying technical stuff.

People keep coming out with this 24" is 26" thing and it keeps being silly.

24" denotes the rim size. Everyone who sells bikes / unicycles knows this, you buy tyres in 24" size, which denotes which rim it goes onto. A 24" fat tyre is quite big, but nothing like as big as a 26" fat tyre. Because almost everyone nowadays rides fat tyres for muni, a 24" tyre is nothing like a 26" tyre.

By saying a 24" tyre is a 26", you just confuse people into thinking that there’s not 2" of difference between a 24" and a 26" tyre, which for all tyres that people use, is not the case.

With your carbon fibre muni, I think that’s because people moaned about the prototypes being built too wide, so he made the final ones with a narrower crown. Roger’s first prototype one fits a gazz (not sure if it’s 2.6 or 3 though) with room to spare. What a nice unicycle (although no brake and periodically needing to be glued back together means it probably is not as practical as my nimbus/pashley franken-muni)


24" vs 26" vs 29" vs …
It all depends on your riding style and the types of terrain you typically ride. Everybody’s situation is different. Unfortunately as isolated as most of us are it is difficult to try out a bunch of different sized muni’s and then pick the one we like best. I started out on a 26" simply because I already had a bunch of 26" mtb tires lying around. For me and my style of riding the 24" is perfect because there are very few “easy” XC type trails around where I live, basically it goes from flat and easy to steep and rocky a the drop of a hat. For me having that little bit extra lower center of gravity on my 24" had made my riding so much more enjoyable and easier on this type of terrain. I’ll admit I did have a tough learning curve adjusting to the 24" vs 26" when it came to “ease of rolling over stuff” but now that I’ve adjusted I think it’s as easy as the 26" ever was. Plus as a runner I don’t mind the 24" being more spinny on the flats vs a 26" or 29"; heck I’ve done several 50km to 80km single track trail rides on my 24" with no issues so I think it’s a keeper for me! I’m just waiting to get my KH/Schlumpf hub so I can have the ultimate 24" machine!

This is pretty funny to read. People have been talking about how good shorter cranks are for a long time. I got conned into buying 170mm profiles in 2003 and I instantly found them awkwardly long, and got 145s as soon as I could. At the time the hype said that they recommend 170mm cranks for any 24x3" unicycles. I wonder if this was spurred on from George Peck’s advice and clung to for a while. The wisdom of shorter than 170mm cranks has been around for a very long time but it seems only more recently people have been paying attention. It is not until KH changes his crank length that everyone follows suit. I agree that the 170s are good for the steepest of trails but I ride everywhere not just on the steepest trails.

Even Roger Davies and Nathan Hoover have known about how sweet 150s are since the year 2000. Mikefule has always had good crank length advice. It’s a pity I didn’t read those threads and find out more advice before buying my unicycle- I got into the forums soon afterwards when I made an email account since became a pay email site.

The confusion comes in when people compare a 24" MUni tire with a 26" MTB tire (about the same size), or when people recommend 24" wheels to newbies who may not realize the big difference between a conventional 24" wheel and one set up for MUni. I think this confusion isn’t going to go away by ignoring it, but I admit it’s too “messy” to keep going into such detail. That’s why I think I like to say 24x3 when talking about a MUni tire size, for instance. Regular 24" wheels are not great for MUni, you need the fat tire for good performance. So it’s 24x3 (even if it’s not that wide) or 26" normal-sized MTB tires. Or 26x3 for ultra-beefy.

Yes, mine’s pretty narrow. But when the 3" tires became popular, they mostly didn’t fit any of the frames on the market. That included the Pashley, the only frame at the time that was made for Muni!

They’ve known, but back then Nathan (and most of the local hardcore MUni guys were using 170s or other long sizes. Of course this was appropriate for the trails in and around Santa Cruz, which could be pretty steep. I remember being able to roll through areas where they had trouble because my 150s were less likely to hit things. Shorter cranks for difficult terrain have only become popular since brakes have become more commonplace. Without brakes, the shorter cranks can be hard on your knees if you ride a lot of steep terrain. Currently I use 160s on my brakeless Wilder. Most of the time they’re a little too long, but they’re great on the tough stuff, which is what that unicycle is for.

Completely 100% off topic, but I made this by copying + pasting this page into I was simultaneously surfing here and found wordle, so i decided to test it. It’s really cool, and I’m really bored lol.

Back to topic, who’s going to Moab this year to do some MUni? And what kind of cycle will you be bringing? (I’m going to bring my torker 24" for the actual riding, and my bc wheel for the first day at the skatepark)

I really want to go to Moab if i can afford it. if i drove it would be about a 22hr trip. I don’t know if i can afford it though. I have never gone yet, and only been to CMW once so far.

Moab is amazing, go if you can, you won’t regret it. I went the last two years, and would do almost anything to go this year, but it might not happen.


when i’m riding Muni, i often strike rocks/logs/other objects on the trail with my feet/pedals. this usually causes a UPD.

do other people have this problem a lot?
how do you prevent it?
is it a matter of getting better at recovering from pedal/foot strikes?
or is it more a matter of preventing the strikes from happening by being aware of where the pedals are and hopping or steering to avoid the object?

i realize shorter cranks would probably also help (i’m running 150s on a 24" wheel) , but that would also make climbing more difficlut and reduce control overall.

I too am running a 24" with 150mm cranks and although I do have pedal strike caused UPDs sometimes I don’t have them as often as I used to. I think the main factor is experience and route “reading” or “line choice.” As I’ve been riding more and more trails I’ve gotten a lot better at being able to study the route ahead of me and not just focus, solely, and what’s right in front of me. It took some time to get proficient enough to be able to just “feel” the trail right in front in order to allow me time to study what’s coming. But since I’ve done that I’m a lot better and my choice of ride line and can usually avoid patches where I might have a pedal strike. On the other hand I’ve really taken to riding trials, especially in the summer when it’s so hot and humid it is hard to ride (plus the trails get all grown up and cobwebby, yuck!). But seriously my trials skills have really improved my off-road riding. The main effect I’ve seen is the ability to “recover” from a pedal strike, bump or other event that throws me off my intended “line.” Where before I’d just UPD now I can usually just go into some sort of small rolling hop and keep on going. This doesn’t always work, but I think having solid trials riding skills has really benefited my overall off-road riding experience.

Completely 100% off topic, but I made this by copying + pasting this page into I was simultaneously surfing here and found wordle, so i decided to test it. It’s really cool, and I’m really bored lol.

Well, everyone else may be underwhelmed by this but I think it’s really cool :slight_smile: - would make a nice T-shirt, if it wrapped right around…

Yes, in MUni language we call it a pedal strike. Sometimes you can’t avoid it if the rocks (or whatever) only have a narrow gap between them, but usually you can thread your way through tight spots if you have the proper pedal position. Shorter cranks will help of course, but 150 is a pretty normal size for MUni and, as you said, if you go shorter it will take away your leverage for the steeps and technical stuff.

So how do you control your pedal position when approaching an obstacle? With practice you can learn to anticipate where your pedals will be when you reach a certain spot. I learned this in my early days of curb-hopping. I used to have to ride toward a curb but have to curve if my pedals weren’t lined up, often ending up riding parallel to the curb before hopping. With more practice I learned to do a bit of zig-zagging before getting to the curb so my pedals would be where I wanted them when I got there. The same thing is possible on the trail, though sometimes conditions make it hard or maybe impossible.

Also if you’re going through something like a rock garden with multiple challenges real close together, it’s usually only possible to align your pedals for one of them. I always try to roll through “rollable” situations (which is probably why I’m not so good at hopping), but you can always do some hops to adjust also.

The worst part about pedal strikes is when they’re unexpectd. I remember once zooming along one of my local trails at high speed, and hitting a side rock I wasn’t expecting to hit. The problem was that there was a dropoff on the left, and the trail was curving to the right there. I went at a stumbling run, trying to keep from falling on my face, and had to grab a bush as I went off the side of the trail so I wouldn’t tumble down a rocky slope!

You can sometimes ride out of pedal strikes if you’re expecting them - if you keep your eye out for likely rocks, and keep hold of the seat.

Having said that, I fell down something called ‘break neck canyon’ in Australia because of one.

Best thing though is to twist your unicycle a bit to get round the rock and avoid the pedal strike.

It is also often the case that where the worst strikes happen is where you get a bunch of rocks that you need to roll through on a downhill, without too much route choice, and a narrow bit to drop into each time. You can mess with your foot position by whether you hop or not each time you drop off one rock onto the next. Rolling and hopping change your foot position differently, as do rolling hops. Doing little rolling hops is a very helpful way to get through rocky downhills. I think Kris H says something about this on one of his videos - it is something he seems to do all the time. You don’t need to be good at hopping to do em either, I can’t hop up much at all.


If it’s just rocks and such, I find it’s possible to learn how to avoid pedal strikes by looking ahead and planning. But the ones that always get me is when it’s worn in single track, and you get a long line of trail with a tall lip on one side. Compounded by being on a seep slope where one can’t really avoid the rut, I find this very frustrating. Then again, I run 175s.

I made this lovely video the other day…

Hey Jackie, looks like you could have fun with a 36er and full body armor, you were flying down those hills. :astonished:

Hey! You chopped off all your hair:D

I have 170’s, so I’ve had this a few times. Although I can only do it 1/3 of the time, if I ride on the edge of the rut, I can avoid getting a pedal strike.

I think if I was cardiovascularly more fit I could better choose routes ahead of time, but since I’m practically hyperventilating in technical terrain, I’m usually fixated on stuff 5-10 yards in front of me. When I can I ride on the side of the ruts or on top of little ridges to avoid pedal strikes.

W/ rocks, learning to ride exactly where I intended helped tremendously. Ridding lots of “skinnies” (curbs, painted lines, and cracks), and frequent sharp turns (I imagine there’s a cone on the corner of each sidewalk square) w/ one or both hands on the handle or behind my back helped w/ my accuracy and recovery from near UPD’s.

Riding in Ruts

When riding in ruts or between two boulders that are close together i tend to slalom in order to avoid pedal strikes. I just zig zag into the oposite direction of the pedal that is going down. I can usually make it through chasms or ruts that are about 30cm wide. Sometimes if there is about a meter or so to go between two boulders that are very close together then I just hop it with the unicycle at a 20 degree angle. This is very energy inefecient but at least I don’t have to get off my wheel!