I am thinking about getting a KH24 frame for my Muni. But i’ve got a few questions.
Could someone take a photo of the width of the tire clearence in the KH24 frame, like side to side.
Yeah, that’s the only question.
Thanks,
Isaac
Sorry, no KH here, but are you going to wait for the 08’s. Also, has your tire rubbed on the frame at all on your Nimbus? Thanks
I don’t know if I will actually get a KH frame, but I don’t really care about the year.
And no, my tire doesn’t rub, but there is only like a few mm clearence on each side, so if it went out of true, it probably would rub.
Isaac
yeah, i have the same exact problem, only my rim was delivered out of true, and I’m too cheap to have someone professional fix it, and i keep messing it up:o It’s weird though b/c it will be rubbing really bad, then ill ride and it’ll true itself, and then it will suddenly start rubbing again.
Tire clearance depends on which tire and rim you’re using. I know that several local riders are using the latest wide KH rim with Gazz 3.0 tires, and there’s not much clearance. It’s important to keep the wheel true so that the tire doesn’t rub.
Speaking of MUni, has anyone here played with shorter length cranks? No, not long 150s. I’ve been toying with 137s on my KH24, and I really like them. I would consider shorter if I had a brake. The only downside I’ve noticed is that steep downhills require a greater commitment. People say longer cranks give you more leverage for climbing; my experience is that longer than 137 mm cranks feel like more work to climb with. And I feel so much speedier on flat sections.
i have a duro tyre but want an intence but they are hard to find in the UK
i run the irc kujo 24x3 and for trail it is great, on flat stuff, the knobbies are a pain… also my rim is not quite wide enouhg(alex dx) and so i get tire fold during hopping" excercises.
i jsut went from 165s on my 24 to 150s on a 26… and talk about so much smoother, I still have enough torque to get up steeps, but everything is so much smoother
running a 2.6 kenda on my 26 and while I miss the volume of the 3.0 and fear pinch flats and bottoming out on drops the lack of roll over when hopping makes pecking and getting over larger obstacles far easier…
hopefully someone oneday will invent such a good tyre that it can literally roll over everything even a boulder like 7 feet high:D
hopefully one day someone will invent such a good rider that it would literally be able to roll over a boulder like 7 feet high.
I recently made this documentary about the sport of Muni.
http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71551
I made it for school, so it is aimed towards non-unicyclists.
Tell me what you think.
Peace,
Seamus McMorrow
How much does a different tire affect how a muni feels. (I dont have one) I understand why trials riders prefer different tires better grip is better for trials. But how does a different tread pattern affect muni
I’ve always been really surprised at how little difference different setups have. I rode a KH with a 24x3 duro rather than my normal 26x2.6" gazz, a bit back when my muni broke on a trip, and I borrowed one, and it made surprisingly little difference. Similarly, I’ve ridden 26x3 gazz and 26x3 duro and again the difference is not that much.
Hopping up big things the extra weight of the 26x3 makes a difference, but I find whatever you ride, by half a mile down the trail you’ll have got used to it for general riding.
Borrowing 170 vs my normal 150mm cranks, I found similar, to the point that I pretty much forgot about the 170s after a couple of miles. The only time I did notice them was on downhills, where I spun fast enough to completely lose my feet on the pedals at a speed where I’d normally still be riding fine.
Joe
I found a big difference between munityres. Nevermind the tread pattern - that is not my concern - but the sidewalls are. If they aren’t thick enough the wheel will go in any direction apart from the desired, after you have deflated them a bit. Tyres without thick sidewalls are also useless for hopping because the thin rubber compresses without resistance leaving no “bouncyness”.
MUni
finally a MUni thread! MUni rules! i might go out to the trails later today. i am going on a road trip to my uncle’s farm in MI, lots of great MUni rideing there! there is everything from rail road tracks tocow fields. i cant wait to get some nice fresh cow crap on my wheels!
I’m pretty picky about my tires:
For one I absolutely detest the duro. The grip it has is so annoying. When I was riding it I would always be sliding down rocks instead of riding down them, and it felt too turny. Like, it has such a round profile that I found it a little harder to control. At $20 it is a great tire though.
I personally ride a 3.0 Gazz, but as these are growing (very) scarce, I’m not quite sure of what I will do once they are gone 
-Miles
I definitely have to disagree here. For me, 150mm vs 170mm is a HUGE difference. With 150s I can ride significantly further, faster and more smoothly without getting tired. The 170s were tediously slow and drained a good bit more energy. Also, while 170s have more leverage for uphills, having to lower the seat to comfortably pedal on the downstroke actually made climbing less efficient for me. With the 150s I could pedal more smoothly and crank right up hills.
I think that the individual’s height has a lot to do with it as well. I’m 5’ 7" and for someone whos taller, the 170s may be more comfortable.
I got Qu-Ax 170’s for my DX and I think the added Q-factor made more of a difference than length compared to the relatively straight stock 150 cranks. I have a lot more control at slow to moderate speeds over technical terrain.
I rode a '05 KH w/ 165’s and I was surprised the difference 5 mm made. I’m 5’10" and have pretty long legs, and w/ my 170’s, it’s hard for me to pedal smoothly, it’s kind of like pedaling a box, esp at high speeds.
W/ the 165’s I didn’t notice this AT ALL, they were significantly easier to ride fast w/ and do smooth moderate climbs with, but harder on really steep stuff, where I was down to half cranks, and on some tech stuff.
Overall I much prefer the 165’s, but for stuff that is at the peek of my skill, 170’s are easier.
The only clearance issues w/ the KH I’ve herd of is when running breaks and a LM rim. A mounting adapter is needed. If I remember correctly, there are also some clearance issues (but fixable) of the brake cable w/ a 24X3 Gazz.
Missed deadline
My impressions of the 24X3" Arrow Wide Bite vs my 2.6" Kenda Kinetics on my Alex DX rim.
http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showpost.php?p=943949&postcount=3
I love mine. I bought a couple spares too. It feels so much better than the Duro I was riding, which always felt like it was pushing my balance to one side or the other. The Intense DH feels way more controlled on all the trails I ride. Believe the hype!