Muni cycle questions

Im looking into buying a Muni. I know i want a 26’’ (or i think i know unless someone tells me thats a bad idea.) The one i have my eye one has a 2.6’’ gazza tire. How much more preferable would a 3.0 wide tire be? Is it a big enough difference that i should look into a different Muni. Also this unicycle has a suzue hub…how unpreferable is this to a splined hub? Is that and the tire a big enough reason to spend more money and look elsewhere. This will be my first Muni. Here is the link to it. (It actually has a KH saddle) all the specs are on the uni right above it, they are the same. Also, i would be getting the gazza upgrade, unless im told not to by someone. THanks

Is there a particular reason you want a 26?

I have a 26 with Suzue Hub, Kenda Collossal, Sun Double Wide, jagur built wheel and 175 aluminum road bike cranks with the spider ground off. It has survived 24" drops. Now that I have a 24x3 I will probably put shorter cranks on this one for more of a cross country style Muni.

For most Muni I prefer my 24x3 gazz with the 170 cranks. It hops better, sucks up roots & rocks and climbs hills better.

There are tons of opinions on this and this question has been discussed many times. I don’t have time to search the archive right now though.

You can save some money by considering the Nimbus 24-inch MUni .

Either way: Get a Muni.

I was thinkin 26’’ kuz it would roll over stuff a bit better and could cover ground faster but i am in no way an expert on the subject, what are some ups and downs of it? I was considering the Nimbus muni but it says in the description "this is designed for entry level Muni…does this mean it is gonna break and be weka and stuff…how it set up in your opinion?

If i went with the nimbus do you think i should go 24’’ or 26’’…And what is the durability and set up in comparison to the semcycle i talked about previously…also, do you think the leopard 3.0 tire on the nimbus and gazza 2.6 tire on the semcycle will make a huge difference?

Last thing, i met jagur and he built your wheel…i love jagur although i think he got rather annoyed with me, which i understand completely. :frowning:

i am soon to be the proud owner (tomorrow) of a 24x3 MUni with splined cranks and hub. i previously owned a 24x3 with cotterless cranks and hub, and i would say it depends on the skill of the rider and the money available. i sold my previous MUni to Theobieone3226, or Kevin as i know him. if you are really good, the cranks and hub may start to break and bend, but if you are just starting out, it may be worth the price difference to go for cotterless. i like the 24" as opposed to the 26" because it is easier to maneuver, and the 3" vs. the 2.6" because of the traction and air volume. hope this helps.

So your saying that the nimbus will bend and crack if i put it through a little rough muni?

24" vs 26" muni

Where to start? I got a Nimbus 26" from Santa. It is a bargain, but if I had it to do over again I’d ask for the 24". The 26" wheel definitely covers ground faster, but with the original 160mm crank-arms I couldn’t climb worth beans. I put on some 175mm second-hand sturdy mountain bike aluminum alloy cranks and it is so much better, but vs. my old 24" still feels very unwieldly. The 3" Leopard tire has helped my bounce hop tremendously, but you have the 3" tire on the 24" frame with much less mass. Body size may influence your decision. I’m 6’1" 165lbs. and long legged. Splined cranks are a definite plus, but the only lower-end muni on that has them is the torker dx which accepts a max tire size of 2.3". Onza is now making a 24" muni/trials with splined cranks and a 2.6" tire that I’m definitely tempted by($399) In sum, if your going for cross-country riding 26" may be fine, if your looking to do more tricks, hopping, climbing etc. my opinion is solidly on the side of the 24" ride

i think those are 170’s :roll_eyes:

Re: Muni cycle questions

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 21:40:22 -0600, fluffinator007
<> wrote:

24" wheels are stronger than 26" wheels (generally). They are more up
to technical MUni, 26" is better for fast MUni. So depends on what you

These days, splined is preferred over cotterless because the prices
have come down so much. If you are not heavy, you can go a long way
with cotterless though.

I like my 3" tyre for the root/rock absorbing effect. Haven’t tried
2.6" but many people who can compare prefer the 3" hands down.

Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict

You have to keep in mind that those of us who post on RSU are not normal. - John Childs

I’d go with the Nimbus 24x3, but first I’d check with and see what brand of wheel comes on it. The one in the picture looks like a Alex 32. If so, that MUni is a quite a deal for $189.
Also, if you want a Gazz, they will upgrade it there (for a fee) before they ship it

I’ve had my Nimbus 24x3 for about 2 years; I’ve ridden it a lot and it’s still fine with no rim problems and no twist in the axle/cranks.

I ride on the streets and mild muni- lots of miles but no big drops.

Like Klass Bill says, a 24" rim is going to be stronger than a 26" rim of similar quality.

In fairness I should say that I’ve not ridden a 26" long enough to make comparisons, but I can say that buying the 24x3 Nimbus was a very good decision and has given me many long hours of enjoyment.

Currently I’m using 5" cranks on it as I like a bit more speed than the 6" ones gave.

If you get the Nimbus it’s worth putting in an extra tenner for some 5" euro cranks- the standard 6" are excellent for hills and muni but having 5" ones will give you options for faster riding.

As a mountain biker, I figured the 26" was right for me at the beginning, and was my first uni.

Taco’ing that wheel was the best thing that could have happened, as I replaced it with a 24x3" wheel.

The 24" just seems to be better. Hopping precisely is easier, and A 3" tire makes rolling over things easier, than the bigger wheel diameter would make.

I’ll never own another 26"r

I also would get the nimbus 24x3 with the gazzalodi upgrade and a crank upgrade to a set of 170s I think the hub is better than the suzue and you definitly want the 24x3 tire, the nokian gazzalodi’s outside diameter is almost 26" and the 26" is around 28", unless you are doing a lot of cross-country riding and not to much hill climbing I think you would prefer the 24, and if you get a quality set of cranks I dont think you will need a splined hub unless you see yourself doing drops over 18 inches in the near future.

Thanks ladies and gentleman again for your input. I’m thinkin I’ll prolly go with the 24/3 nimbus because of the cost efficiency and the larger tire, also i think I’d like the hub better than the suzue. will put a gazza tire on at the place before shipping??? How much do you expect this would cost? Also, I’d get the splined cranks seperate and put them on but my knowledge of putting stuff together does not extend that far.

I’ve not been following this thread, but here’s my two penn’orth.

My Pashley 26 has a Gazz. 2.3 tyre which is considerably better at everything than the 1.95 I had on before. The difference is amazing.

But the day I fitted the 2.3, I had a ride on someone else’s 3.0 and that was a whole league division better.

So definitely, a big fat soft tyre will make a huge difference to your uni’s ability to cross soft and shifting ground, bumps and roots and all manner of things. It will hop better and drop better.

But on the other hand, it will be slower and harder work on the smooth sections.

But ask yourself what sort of riding you like to do. How often will you be slogging up steep hills? How often will you be going down steep hills? Do you do drops? Do you like to ride distances?

For comparison, I have ridden 20+ mile days on mixed single track and forest track on a 700c x 32 mm tyre, and 110mm cranks. I have ridden many miles on forest tracks and single tracks on a Coker with 150s. I have even done some quite difficult stuff on a 24 with 102mm cranks.

On the other hand, I just couldn’t get on with 170mm cranks on my 26. The extra leverage was great on descents, made suprisingly little difference on ascents, and made long flat sections 'orrible.

I like to find a uni that feels right to ride, then ride it to the maximum that I can achieve on it, rather than making the uni really heavily specialised, and making big sacrifices in several areas for maximal performance in one.

If I had the time, money and space to buy a new ‘dedicated’ MUni, it would be a 24 inch wheel with a 3 inch section tyre. This would give it a rolling diameter of about 26 inches, good enough for most surfaces, but small enough for low gearing. I would fit 150mm cranks, decent pinned pedals, and a good strong handle on the seat.

I would value plenty of mud clearance on the frame.

I would accept that this MUni would have some limitations, but all unis are a compromise of some sort.

I have never had a uni with a splined hub, and so far I have never broken a hub or crank. But I roll the wheel and seldom hop or drop.