Muni cranks

What’s a good BMX crank for use on a muni? I need something that will fit a
regular four shoulder taper. So far I have only found one BMX crank set that
would make a good muni crank. There must be others out there that I don’t
know about.

The Black Widow Euro by Odyssey looks good. You can see more info about it on
their web page ( http://www.odysseybmx.com/cranks.htm ). It’s available in sizes
from 150mm to 175mm. The spider is removable. It has a highly polished mirrored
finish and it looks sharp. The downside is it’s $140.

Are there any other BMX cranks that I should look at before spending $140 on
these cranks?

BMX cranks are straight (much like regular unicycle cranks) and don’t flare out
like mountain bike cranks. Mountain bike cranks have to flare out so they can
clear the very wide chainstays. With BMX cranks your feet will be closer
together and I think that is better both ergonomically and mechanically for a
unicycle. Contrary to the popular car commercial – wider is not better.

That’s my thinking on BMX cranks vs. mountain bike cranks. Are BMX cranks really
better for muni?

Thanks, john_childs@hotmail.com


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RE: Muni cranks

> What’s a good BMX crank for use on a muni?

To me, it’s something stuck on the end of a good axle.

> The Black Widow Euro by Odyssey looks good. You can see more info about it on
> their web page ( http://www.odysseybmx.com/cranks.htm ). It’s available in
> sizes from 150mm to 175mm. The spider is removable. It has a highly polished
> mirrored finish and it looks sharp. The downside is it’s $140.

Looks like a beautiful crank. I wonder if it’s possible to order them without
the spider and save a little $$? But I still can’t justify putting $140 cranks
on the end of a $30 axle. We MUni riders need better axles!

Also, I’ve had very few problems with cranks, other than threads stripping so
I couldn’t use a crank puller. The weak point usually is the axle. Although,
Saturday I was riding with Brett Bymaster and one of his cranks died (he had
to walk out carrying the crank). Of course his cranks probably have 2000 miles
on them…

jf

RE: Muni cranks

>> What’s a good BMX crank for use on a muni?
>
>To me, it’s something stuck on the end of a good axle.

Hehe <g>

> But I still can’t justify putting $140 cranks on the end of a $30 axle. We
> MUni riders need better axles!

Very true. $140 is overkill for unicycle cranks. Cranks are definately not the
weak link on a muni. Even cheap cranks are strong enough. My idea of a crank
disaster on a ride would be having it come loose and damaging the taper. I can’t
imagine breaking a crank or even flexing a crank.

Unfortunately these are the least expensive BMX cranks I have been able to find
that are available in sizes from 150mm to 175mm, have a removable spider, and
have a regular four shoulder taper.

I’ve been getting the urge to try BMX cranks to see what it is like to have my
feet closer together (what the bicycle fit people call a narrower Q factor).
It’s just hard to justify a $140 experiment.

Maybe I can justify those cranks on a new Telford with the deluxe hub.
<g>

John john_childs@hotmail.com


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RE: Muni cranks

> not the weak link on a muni. Even cheap cranks are strong enough. My idea of a
> crank disaster on a ride would be having it come loose and damaging the taper.
> I can’t imagine breaking a crank or even flexing a crank.

When Brett’s crank died the other day, it did no apparent damage to the taper.
It was an (apparently too soft) alloy crank. We can’t remember the brand at the
moment. But Brett says they were good cranks for almost a year before that
happened. Toward the end, the crank was off-center on the axle and it got harder
and harder to get a crank wrench in there to tighten it. I haven’t seen that
problem before with cranks. so I blame Brett :slight_smile:

But crank arms do bend, especially if you hop a lot or ride off of things.

> Unfortunately these are the least expensive BMX cranks I have been able to
> find that are available in sizes from 150mm to 175mm, have a

Brett and I got our cranks (different brands) from The Unicycle Factory.
They’re mostly 152mm. Give Tommy Miller a call at (765) 452-2692 and don’t
mention computers. If he still has any cranks in that length range, they’ll
cost you a lot less!

Stay on top,

John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com

Re: Muni cranks

I did some searching and I found the Odyssey Euro cranks for about $90 from a
BMX mail order company. Sure beats the $140 MSRP.

These cranks (and the regular tapered hub) should be strong enough for me for
about the next 1 or 2 years. They aren’t splined but I’m not as rough on them as
you are. I figure that in 1 or 2 years my skills and techniques will advance to
the point where I too can break my equipment. Hopefully by then some stronger
equipment will be available.

Bummer about the mechanical in the middle of the ride. That is definately no
fun. I hope you have better luck with your next crank set. I hate walking the
muni back to the car because you always get that comment “can you really ride
that thing?”. If you are not riding it they don’t believe you can do it.

I’m surprised that your cranks round out so easily. Do you apply any oil to the
taper before putting on your cranks? That’s a bad thing to
do. Adding any oil allows the crank to slip on too far and damage the taper on
the cranks or even split the cranks. When you put the cranks on, the hub
and the cranks should be free of dirt and oil. Or maybe the cranks that you
are using are just very soft. …Just brainstorming on possible causes.

John john_childs@hotmail.com

At 07:37 PM 1/20/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Those look like great cranks! I’ve had a lot of trouble finding 150mm cranks
>that are of decent quality. John Foss and I walked several
miles
>after my crank loosened up and eventually fell off this weekend. The inside of
>the crank gets rounded out after hard use, and gets to the
point
>that it won’t stay on even when the crank nut is on very tight (which
is
>what happened to me). These were alloy cranks. Since the axle is
steal,
>the cranks usually go before the axle. This is my second pair of
cranks on
>the current axle. I’ve bent or rounded out every crank set I’ve ever
tried
>(although I haven’t tried a really high end crank set yet) and
basically
>come to the conclusion that nothing but splined cranks will work. But
I’ve
>yet to find any 150mm splined cranks. Hmmmmm… bummer
>
> Brett Bymaster “bloodman” http://shay.ecn.purdue.edu/~bymaster


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RE: Muni cranks

John Childs wrote:
> Bummer about the mechanical in the middle of the ride. That is definately no
> fun. I hope you have better luck with your next crank set. I hate walking the
> muni back to the car because you always get that comment "can you really ride
> that thing?". If you are not riding it they don’t believe you can do it.

I’ve found that usually the crank arm and pedal you’re holding in your other
hand is sufficient for most people to see that at least you were riding
it. Also that we’re strong enough to break those things.

I think Brett’s cranks were not well made. Also, remember he puts on way more
miles than almost every other MUni rider on Earth…

jf

Re: Muni cranks

On Sun, 17 Jan 1999, John Childs wrote:

> What’s a good BMX crank for use on a muni? I need something that will fit a
> regular four shoulder taper. So far I have only found one BMX crank set that
> would make a good muni crank. There must be others out there that I don’t
> know about.
>

I haven’t actually seen them but Gigantex (they say nytex on them) carbon
composite cranks are very attractive, especially model cm-213. They are sold at
billsbikes.com and ttsbikes.com and one other website I don’rt have handy. 340
grams/pair and allegedly very very durable, incredible stiff and unbreakable.
Not cheap, though. I’m not sure how much they cost. One site says $265/pair,
another $170/pair. The difference is so great that it makes me suspect a typo.
They have another cheaper model, too and maybe that’s where the confusion is.

jh

Re: Muni cranks

Those look like great cranks! I’ve had a lot of trouble finding 150mm cranks
that are of decent quality. John Foss and I walked several miles after my
crank loosened up and eventually fell off this weekend. The inside of the
crank gets rounded out after hard use, and gets to the point that it won’t
stay on even when the crank nut is on very tight (which is what happened to
me). These were alloy cranks. Since the axle is steal, the cranks usually go
before the axle. This is my second pair of cranks on the current axle. I’ve
bent or rounded out every crank set I’ve ever tried (although I haven’t tried
a really high end crank set yet) and basically come to the conclusion that
nothing but splined cranks will work. But I’ve yet to find any 150mm splined
cranks. Hmmmmm… bummer

Brett Bymaster “bloodman” http://shay.ecn.purdue.edu/~bymaster

At 07:17 PM 1/17/99 PST, you wrote:
>What’s a good BMX crank for use on a muni? I need something that will fit a
>regular four shoulder taper. So far I have only found one BMX crank set that
>would make a good muni crank. There must be others out there that I don’t
>know about.
>
>The Black Widow Euro by Odyssey looks good. You can see more info about it on
>their web page ( http://www.odysseybmx.com/cranks.htm ). It’s available in
>sizes from 150mm to 175mm. The spider is removable. It has a highly polished
>mirrored finish and it looks sharp. The downside is it’s $140.
>
>Are there any other BMX cranks that I should look at before spending $140 on
>these cranks?
>
>BMX cranks are straight (much like regular unicycle cranks) and don’t flare out
>like mountain bike cranks. Mountain bike cranks have to flare out so they can
>clear the very wide chainstays. With BMX cranks your feet will be closer
>together and I think that is better both ergonomically and mechanically for a
>unicycle. Contrary to the popular car commercial – wider is not better.
>
>That’s my thinking on BMX cranks vs. mountain bike cranks. Are BMX cranks
>really better for muni?
>
>Thanks, john_childs@hotmail.com
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

Re: Muni cranks

John Childs wrote:

> What’s a good BMX crank for use on a muni? I need something that will fit a
> regular four shoulder taper. So far I have only found one BMX crank set that
> would make a good muni crank. There must be others out there that I don’t
> know about.
>
> The Black Widow Euro by Odyssey looks good. You can see more info about it on
> their web page ( http://www.odysseybmx.com/cranks.htm ). It’s available in
> sizes from 150mm to 175mm. The spider is removable. It has a highly polished
> mirrored finish and it looks sharp. The downside is it’s $140.
>
> Are there any other BMX cranks that I should look at before spending $140 on
> these cranks?
>
> BMX cranks are straight (much like regular unicycle cranks) and don’t flare
> out like mountain bike cranks. Mountain bike cranks have to flare out so they
> can clear the very wide chainstays. With BMX cranks your feet will be closer
> together and I think that is better both ergonomically and mechanically for a
> unicycle. Contrary to the popular car commercial – wider is not better.
>
> That’s my thinking on BMX cranks vs. mountain bike cranks. Are BMX cranks
> really better for muni?

It is not worth looking at any crank that is built on a 5/8" taper, basically
the design is flawed. It has stress concentrators in about the worst place and
it is not surprising that the hubs snap. I have been looking for splined
cranks for about 2 years now and the smallest I have found are 165mm. Oh well
looks like it is make it time. Time what’s that… oh yes that’s thing that I
don’t have.

Roger