MUni crankarm lengths

Unicycles and Equipment
1

I’m trying to put together an “ultimate municycle” and need some advice on crank
length. I’m planning on using a Telford frame, and there up stock from Telford
with the suspension post upgrade, then customizing everything below the frame.
What crank lengths seem to work best with a 26" wheel for Muni, for the best
all-around performance? Also, how wide of a tire can you fit into the Telford
frame? (John? I know you’ve ridden one, I read your review…) Also, what is the
best way to do the seat? I’m only roughly aware of Roger’s carbon
Miyata-compatible pan, but is that a lot better than the stock Miyata seat? And
should I go with more, or less, padding, or leave it stock?

Thanks much! Always, Jeremy

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2

RE: MUni crankarm lengths

> I’m trying to put together an “ultimate municycle” and need some advice on
> crank length.

That’s very much a personal choice. You must consider your local terrain, the
kinds of trails you like to ride on, your trip distance, and most of all your
personal preference. I don’t think leg length has much to do with it, as Roger
Davies and I have the same taste in size. I ride 150s, but there are times I
would like 170s or maybe even longer. But I don’t think I’d want to do a 10+
mile ride with those long cranks.

I was raised on 24" wheels with 140 and 125mm cranks, riding real fast around
the track. I may be less inclined to go to longer cranks that make my legs have
to flex so much. I get pretty good results with 150s on my (26") MUnis, but I’ve
only used longer cranks for relatively short distances, when test riding other
cycles and never for an entire long ride.

> how wide of a tire can you fit into the Telford frame? (John? I know you’ve
> ridden one, I read your review…)

I don’t know the dimensions, but I’m sure your order will involve at least one
call to Geoff Faraghan, and he can tell you the details. I’ve seen Telford
frames with all the fattest tires in them, so that shouldn’t be a problem.

> Also, what is the best way to do the seat?

I don’t have as much of an opinion there, other than to go with the Miyata type.
I love that front bumper as a convenient handle and hand rest! I have a standard
Miyata seat, but it’s on top of a customized post that keeps it from flexing so
I’m not as in need of a carbon base. But you’re building the “ultimate”, so you
should get one of those.

> And should I go with more, or less, padding, or leave it stock?

Definitely change the padding to some sort of air type. I use a single innertube
in mine, but I’m sure a tube/foam or tube/gel combination is a safer setup.

Good luck, John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone http://www.unicycling.com

“Sometimes there just aren’t enough rocks.” – Forrest Gump

3

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

>Here’s my suggestions: Make sure you get the quadra-pivot suspension post. It
>is way better than the uni-pivots I rode at MUni weekend.
>
>As for a frame, assuming he hasn’t built it yet, request one that will fit a 3"
>tire, plus a some clearance for mud. 3.0 is the Ultimate, and you did say
>Ultimate.

Does the quad-pivot design flex on the up, and decrease jumping performance?
That’s one of the skills I hope to specialize in, and want to do some scary
jumping stunts- Kris Holm style- once I get a bit, ok a lot, better.

I haven’t had anything done yet- I prefer to completely research first, then
I’ll probably stall for awhile just to make sure nothing else comes along,
except paychecks, and then I’ll go for broke.

Assuming rim width isn’t a problem, is there any point where more tire is bad,
or is more always more? In road racing, bicycles, less is more, and the
carryover for me would be weight- but if it rides better, it’s worth the
weight penalty.

Again, thanks much for all the help!

Keep Riding! Jeremy Chrisman

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4

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

>From: Chris Reeder
[snip]
>Rim-- nothing under 45mm wide. HED. AVRO and Sun all make nice DH rims. I’ve
>heard the Sun Doublewides are a pain to remove tires from.
[snip]

It isn’t hard to remove the tire from a Sun Doublewide rim if you have the right
tool. At the Muni Weekend Geoffrey sold me a metal tire lever that works great
for removing a 3" Gazz from the doublewide rim. I think it’s a lever intended
for motorcycle tires. You might be able to get one at a motorcycle shop. A
plastic lever by itself won’t do the trick. I used a combination of the metal
lever and a Quik-Stik lever to remove the tire and it was surprisingly easy. The
Quik-Stik is a plastic lever that you can get at almost any bike store.

john_childs

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5

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

Jeremy,

The crank length depends on what you are doing with your Muni and where you are
riding it. For the stuff I do, in the area I ride, I prefer the shorter cranks,
150mm but there are times when I really want 170mm! especially when I was riding
with others with long cranks.

I might be biased about the seat base… but I would have said a ridged seat
base is essential. Whether it is a standard seat base that you have re-enforced
or it is a CF one you really do need it.

Leo has made an interesting adaptation to the CF seat base, he uses a
Butterfingers style seat cover over it and has even fitted the bumpers. It looks
great. I believe he is going to put a picture on the web when he gets a chance.
I forgot to take photos at the weekend.

Roger

The UK's Unicycle Source <a href="http://www.unicycle.uk.com/">http://www.unicycle.uk.com/</a>

----- Original Message ----- From: “Jeremy Chrisman” <unicycle@ihateclowns.com>
To: <unicycling@winternet.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 4:20 AM Subject:
MUni crankarm lengths

> I’m trying to put together an “ultimate municycle” and need some advice on
crank length. I’m planning on using a Telford frame, and there up stock from
Telford with the suspension post upgrade, then customizing everything below the
frame. What crank lengths seem to work best with a 26" wheel for Muni, for the
best all-around performance? Also, how wide of a tire can you fit into the
Telford frame? (John? I know you’ve ridden one, I read your review…) Also,
what is the best way to do the seat? I’m only roughly aware of Roger’s carbon
Miyata-compatible pan, but is that a lot better than the stock Miyata seat? And
should I go with more, or less, padding, or leave it stock?
>
> Thanks much! Always, Jeremy
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Do you hate clowns? Get Free Email & Free Websites at
http://www.ihateclowns.com
> Buy Anti-Clown Hats, Mugs, Mousepads and more at
http://store.ihateclowns.net
>

6

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

Hello Jeremy,

Here’s my suggestions: Make sure you get the quadra-pivot suspension post. It is
way better than the uni-pivots I rode at MUni weekend.

As for a frame, assuming he hasn’t built it yet, request one that will fit
a 3" tire, plus a some clearance for mud. 3.0 is the Ultimate, and you did
say Ultimate.

Rim-- nothing under 45mm wide. HED. AVRO and Sun all make nice DH rims. I’ve
heard the Sun Doublewides are a pain to remove tires from.

See if Geoff can put disc caliper mounts on it. Somebody should start making
disc frames, because Profile will be making some disc hubs in their next batch.
I got to ride Scott Bridgeman’s disc uni in September and that brake is sooo
smooooothe.

Chris

Jeremy Chrisman wrote:
>
> I’m trying to put together an “ultimate municycle” and need some advice on
> crank length. I’m planning on using a Telford frame, and there up stock from
> Telford with the suspension post upgrade, then customizing everything below
> the frame. What crank lengths seem to work best with a 26" wheel for Muni, for
> the best all-around performance? Also, how wide of a tire can you fit into the
> Telford frame? (John? I know you’ve ridden one, I read your review…) Also,
> what is the best way to do the seat? I’m only roughly aware of Roger’s carbon
> Miyata-compatible pan, but is that a lot better than the stock Miyata seat?
> And should I go with more, or less, padding, or leave it stock?
>
> Thanks much! Always, Jeremy
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Do you hate clowns? Get Free Email & Free Websites at
> http://www.ihateclowns.com Buy Anti-Clown Hats, Mugs, Mousepads and more at
> http://store.ihateclowns.net

–
Chris Reeder reed8990@uidaho.edu

7

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

I really love my Telford. I can’t think of how to improve it–other than add
extra wheels for road and trials use.

Here is my setup: I use a Gazzallodi Jr 26 by 2.6 tire. The 3.0 tire won’t fit
in the frame, but the 2.6 works really well. I use 175 cranks because I live in
a very steep area. I have the hardened Telford hub and the Sun Mamoth rim.

Geoffrey is experimenting with the Profile hub and axle. That would be a
possible upgrade if you are going “ultimate”.

I don’t use a brake, though you can get one for your Telford if you want one.

My next wheel is a road setup: 28 inch–700c with 40 width tire. I have ordered
102 and 110 cranks to experiment with.

My seat won butt-collades at the California Muni weekend. I use the Carbon fiber
seat and the Roach seat cover. Here’s how I got my seat to be comfortable:

  1. Layer one is a single 12 inch tire–inside a bladder that John Childs made.
    The bladder is a cloth bag stitched into the hourglass shape of a Miyata
    seat. It keeps the inflated tire in the correct shape.

  2. Layer two is a cut out section of gel from a Norco brand gel seatcover for an
    exercise bike. This layer makes a huge difference.

  3. Layer three is a cut out section of foam–the egg carton type. What it does
    is smooth out the edges that the other layers create.

Have fun with your unicycle.

David Maxfield Bainbridge Island, WA

8

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

The “ultimate” involves some form of a 3" wide tire, probably a Gazz. There are
a few rims that fit, but it has to be really wide like the Sun DoubleWide. I
recommend a 24" rather than a 26". Given that, I use 170mm cranks which are
great for the rides I usually do - very steep up and down. It it were more
cruising along on trails, 152s would definitely be better.

The 3" Gazz just barely fits in my Telford frame - no rubbing although there was
some initially on steep up. Read what David Maxfield wrote about the seat and do
it. I am. His is great. But don’t let all this customization get in the way of
hitting the trails and going riding!

—Nathan

“Jeremy Chrisman” <unicycle@ihateclowns.com> wrote in message
news:200010310420.UAA06679@mail21.bigmailbox.com…
> I’m trying to put together an “ultimate municycle” and need some advice on
crank length. I’m planning on using a Telford frame, and there up stock from
Telford with the suspension post upgrade, then customizing everything below the
frame. What crank lengths seem to work best with a 26" wheel for Muni, for the
best all-around performance? Also, how wide of a tire can you fit into the
Telford frame? (John? I know you’ve ridden one, I read your review…) Also,
what is the best way to do the seat? I’m only roughly aware of Roger’s carbon
Miyata-compatible pan, but is that a lot better than the stock Miyata seat? And
should I go with more, or less, padding, or leave it stock?
>
> Thanks much! Always, Jeremy

9

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

> > Assuming rim width isn’t a problem, is there any point where more tire is
> > <bad, or is more always more? In road racing, bicycles, less is more, and
> > the <carryover for me would be weight- but if it rides better, it’s worth
> > the >weight penalty.

Yep. It rides better. It hops higher, too. I don’t actually know when it starts
to be too much. Someday I’ll ride a 4" tire and let you know.

> Does the quad-pivot design flex on the up, and decrease jumping performance?
> >That’s one of the skills I hope to specialize in, and want to do some scary
> >jumping stunts- Kris Holm style- once I get a bit, ok a lot, better.
>

Geoff’s didn’t seem to. He had the preload adjusted so that it didn’t really
move when you just sat on it, but you could lay into those technical downhill
sections without even standing up off the seat.

Chris

10

Re: MUni crankarm lengths

> I’m trying to put together an “ultimate municycle”

Other choices not mentioned : DM Vortex - but buy it with 150mm and 175 mm
cranks and a 24" by 3.0 Wheel see Unicycle Source USA (splined cranks are easily
changed without damaging interference fit tapers)

Carbon Fibre 26" x 2.6 with 150mm Euro cranks or 170mm Deore cranks - very
manouverable and great for fast trail riding - see Unicycle Source UK

Leo White