Mr Lasco, meet Mr Sledgehammer

I’ve been playing on my 20" again because I’m on my travels…

Just down the road from my parents house in Lincoln is a little playpark which I’ve just discovered has a beam just right for learning crank hangs on. I’d pretty much got the hang of jumping on and balancing on it when it happened, my left crank is now a somewhat funny shape. I’m not entirely surprised given the slating they appear to have been given by others.

At the moment they’re straight enough to ride around on thanks to several large thwacks with a very large hammer. But it’s time for some replacements. Before I toddle off to give even more money (this is becoming a habit…) remind me (a) which is the People’s Preferred Crank, and how they’re measured… I presume it’s from the centre of each “hole”, which makes my current ones 130mm, or about 5". Does that seem right? I like the length, so hopefully I can get some the same length, just made from a material slightly stronger than cheese…

On another note, unicycling round York on a saturday afternoon in tourist season is great fun…

Phil, just me

Re: Mr Lasco, meet Mr Sledgehammer

For an average 20" Uni -

Bicycle Euro steel (aka Thun)


125mm or 127mm

… which are probably the best allround length

I prefer 110mm for hockey and freestyle and 137/140 for trials

Leo White

Get some Profiles. :slight_smile:

Re: Mr Lasco, meet Mr Sledgehammer

On Mon, 22 Jul 2002 16:26:43 -0500, phil
<> wrote:

>(a) which is the People’s
>Preferred Crank, and how they’re measured… I presume it’s from the
>centre of each “hole”, which makes my current ones 130mm, or about 5".
>Does that seem right?

The crank length is measured from centre hole to centre hole, right.
I don’t know much about crank brands. I think Bicycle Euro has the
name to be a good crank for decent money. I’m not sure if they exist
in 130 mm though, but they do in 125 mm.

Klaas Bil

In haste I completely forgot about half the reason for sneaking past my parents onto the internet in the first place…

The crank is “repaired” to a point where it’s rideable, but I don’t really want to jump on it until I replace them with some proper ones. I could try again on my muni but I definitely don’t want to total the cranks on that…

So how do you crank-hang while reducing the risk of bending stuff? I wasn’t really paying attention to technique, I was just jumping and seeing what worked… generally my feet would stay on the pedals and I’d land on the crank (although sometimes it’d go wrong and I’d land on the pedal).

Is this about right? Or should my foot be on the crank too, to reduce the leverage and so chance of bending?

Please help my stop breaking things…

Phil, just me

Learn pedal grabbing instead of crank grabbing, or buy a set of Profiles.

For the moment I’m learning “staying on that plank any which way I can”, although I was aiming more for the crank. Is landing on the pedal easier? The few times I did that the pedal and my foot hit the plank only for the uni to swing back round and hit the ground. Should the pedal and crank hit the edge at the same time, or should the crank be over the edge?

I currently have two unicycles in pieces, so right now I can’t go and find out - :frowning: - although the muni is in pieces because soon it will have a funky new big airseat. Mmmmm… :slight_smile:

Phil, just me