mouunting the unicylce

I have been learning to ride indoors for the better part of 4 months. I can
ride freely without holding on, However I have to hold onto something to get
on the Unicycle. Now that spring is here, I want to take my lessons
outside. Big problem…I can’t get onto the Unicycle without a wall. I
have a 20" unicycle. All suggestions and help will be most appreciated~!

Re: mouunting the unicylce

In article <tVMga.13864$>,
bev <> wrote:
)outside. Big problem…I can’t get onto the Unicycle without a wall. I
)have a 20" unicycle. All suggestions and help will be most appreciated~!

Obviously the solution is just never to get off the unicycle.

Here is a set of instructions that may help:


Hi… I have gotten on my unnicycle by myself, maybe 2 or 3 times, im 11 yrs old tho… My tip is get on go backwards as soon as you get on it about 3 inches, then try to take off… works 4 me some times :slight_smile:

mounting the unicycle

I learnt to get on the uni (freemount?)by starting in the street outside my house. The road is on an incline and by starting off down the hill you have some momentum, i find it easier to dtart going down a hil than on the flat. Good luck:)

Goto and the how to section.
I also found to be helpful - again, check his how to section.
There are an estimated over 80 types of mounts from the basic rollback mount uo to things like an inverted 360 flip suicide unispin mount (I made that one up…).
My personal preference is for what I call the roll forward mount - as soon as you go up you start pedaling forward…
At the moment all I do is static mounts though.
Also, be sure to check out The king of uni sites

good luck and have fun!

When I learned, I found it was best to be on a slight decline or incline. This helps to keep the wheel from rolling too much. I know someone who is learning now, and he likes the jump mount the best.

The key is to keep trying and never give up.

Best of luck,

My strategy: If you’re used to the balance, maybe you can try mounting a normal bicycle without using your hands. That could give you a feel for the main L & R (left and right) balance. If you want to just learn how to do it from nothing, here you go…

Start without your hand on the seat, but still sitting on the seat with your feet on the ground and the uni in front of you. Make sure the pedal on the side of your weakest foot is down low, along with the other pedal up high on your strong foot’s side. Put your weak foot on the weak-foot-pedal, and keep your other foot on the ground. Once you get your main balance, take a step off the ground and kick your stronger foot into the stronger-foot-pedal. Therefore you know it will go forward, because that’s the way your kicking it. If you need to, slide your foot in the middle of the pedal andtry to start pedaling. You can also do the “jump” strategy, which I sometimes do, and you start out the same way as above. Then you just jump up and land with your feet on the corresponding pedal.

If that doesn’t work, that doesn’t mean it will never work. Remember; practice, practice, practice.

when I started and my free mount wasn’t very good, I could get quite a long way (several miles) using lamp-posts and street signs to get back on when I fell off.


Just start practicing…I dreaded the free mount but once I started doing it I found it not to be that difficult or dangerous…both of which I had myself psyched into thinking it would be

Relax! Freemounting is one of those things that will come with time. Don’t build it up into a big obstacle to enjoying your riding.

A few tips.

If you look at the wheel as a clock face, and the pedals as the hands of the clock, looking from the right hand side of the unicycle:

The easiest way to stop the uni rolling back or scooting away is to freemount at 12 and 6 - that’s with the weight on the 6 o’clock pedal to hold the wheel still. Unfortunately, this mount gets you onto the unicycle successfully, but it can be difficult to start it rolling.

Better, therefore, to mount with the pedals at 8 and 2 - that means the back pedal slightly below horizontal. You will find one side comes more naturally than the other. for now, i suggest you concentrate on that side.

Unfortunately, the 8 and 2 mount (or 9 and 3) can make the uni roll back. There is a sort of mount which uses this to bring the uni under the rider (instead of launching the rider over the uni) but I think this (the ‘rollback mount’) is difficult until you can idle comfortably.

Which leads me onto… linked skills. Mounting, idling, reversing, and still stands are all linked to some extent. What it boils down to is low-speed control. If you are confident at low speeds, stopping and starting, standing on the pedals and so on, then mounting will be easier. So this means there is a range of skills to try, and practice sessions won’t become boring.

I find that my easiest mount is with the pedals at 8 and 2. I put my left foot on the back pedal, hold the seat with my right hand, and spring up onto the other pedal. I land in a standing position, then lower myself onto the seat. the advantage of this is that it gets my weight good and high, which means that things happen more slowly - there is more time to adjust.

There are many ways to freemount, and one way will suit you. practise slow speed control, don’t wear yourself out practising on a day when nothing goes right, and remember that it will be slow progress. Even experienced riders sometimes miss mounts, especially when they’re tired or the terrain is difficult.

Mounting on a DEcline (down hill) is easier. Mounting on an INcline (uphill) is substantially more difficult. Even the decline of the camber of the road can be enough to make it easier.

Good luck.

Hmm… I usually keep the pedals at 2:8. Then my stronger foot will strike the higher pedal and move it forward rather than backward.