Ben, a few pages back in this thread, kb1jk1 posted a couple pics with tape measures showing almost identical measurements. I just installed the Sinz, after years of KH cranks, and could feel no difference in Q. The only difference was the Q of the KH cranks is formed by a concave curve, and the Sinz have a convex curve, which makes hitting the shift button a little harder, but totally doable.
Edit: Here’s the post.
Did you get any comments about that on your ride? 
Actually, my friend Matt (aka Mad Dog who owns the LBS), at least noticed the disc. Talking about it, he also warned that the rotor will get hot from braking, especially on the decent from Whiteface next month. (8 mile, 1100+ meter continuous downhill).
You could use an inside leg liner 
. . . ‘Amorphous Silica Fabrics. These fabrics are high temperature materials used for a wide range of insulation and protection applications in industries such as aerospace, shipyards, molten metal and electric power generation. These products have replaced similar products that once contained asbestos.’
I wonder if they make gaiters out of that material…
I think I’ll just try not to touch the disc!
Jogi - it looks like the smallest spacer sold by UDC (at least in the US store) is 4mm. Might be better though. I’ll be able to judge better when I finally set up the brake, which I don’t have yet.
That’s the other option 
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I have yet to touch the disc. Even after falling and the few times I have slipped off the pedal; I don’t think it’s much of an issue. You could sew a piece of heat resistant cloth on shin guards if your wear them
I thought 6mm would bring the rotor too close to the frame, but all spacers between the crank and rotor would be fine. if the caliper reaches without rubbing yer gud.
when the brakes come, leave the crank in place, pull off the UCM, separate the adapter from the caliper and bolt the adapter to the UCM. replace the UCM on the frame with the adapter attached and install the caliper last. I’d get the 4mm if ever I heard crank creak due to wear and then reduce the spacer size.
Turtle has gotten the rotor plenty hot from riding down mountainsides, but hasn’t complained of injury or clothing damage. Baggy nylon would be a poor choice, and so would a lack of leg armor. purposely touching a hot disc may not be the best idea either. 
Sinister Jay got some 3/8" plastic cable clips and used anodized bolts to secure his disc brake hydraulic hose to the maggie mount bolts on the stanction of his Triton. That eliminated the zip ties running down the leg of the frame! This is Jeff’s rig featuring the same concept. It looks nice and it’s very functional and clean.
Right now, I have 2 spacer-washers outside spider and two between spider and rotor.
What if I put all the spacer-washer thingies on the outside of the spider (that should move the rotor 2mm farther from the frame), then switched to the 4mm crank spacer (currently using 6mm)? Then the 4mm spacer moves crank/rotor assembly 2mm back toward the frame, thus the rotor would be the same distance from the frame, no?
Yup. However, we made the UCM to bolt the caliper’s adapter directly to with 6mm crank stop spacers. That may mean that if you use a 4mm spacer, there will be no room between the adapter and the rotor or chain ring bolts. The UCM may need to have 2mm removed from the face that mates to the adapter if you use a 4mm crank stop spacer. I am not recommending the 4mm spacer, but feel free to test and post the results. Without the help of a machinist, you would be filing the UCM for quite a while to remove the 2mm.
Jogi has a welded on mount that is not as thick as the UCM, and it is placed on his frame so that spacers may be used to bring the adapter outward, originally to compensate for crank creep on Schlumpf hubs before Florian acquiesced to the use of crank stop spacers. 2mm Spacers on the UCM are used to bring the adapter out for 8mm spacers. I have installed the MountainUni system on a couple Triton frames which required 6mm spacers between the tab mount and the adapter with 8mm crank stop spacers. You don’t have as much wiggle room with the UCM as you do with the weld on mounts from Triton.
The next batch could be made thinner to accommodate 4mm crank stop spacers, and come with 4, 2mm spacers for in between the UCM and adapter for use up to 8mm spacers. However, 4mm crank stop spacers will lack the spacing between the UCM and the adapter, and shorter bolts will be required so they don’t strike the rotor. Stainless 2mm washers are costing us nearly $1.50, 4 of them plus short bolts to supplement the existing brake hardware will drive costs up along with the retail price of the system overall.
This is just a teaser Steveyo… The second pic shows how the Gusset Chute brake will appear on your steed!
Finally got my MountainUni disk break set up on my triton with 32" wheel. Had a couple minor issues getting it set up but got everything sorted and went for a ride around town today.
What can I say once it was set up it was pretty awesome. No break rub from frame flex, and most importantly of all the smoothest breaking I have ever felt on a unicycle.
The Hayes Stroker Ryde lived up to its reputation as a nice progressive brake with good modulation but lacking power. So far I really like it, way less grabby than a HS22/33 and much quieter. The lever blade does rattle a little bit though if you drop the unicycle.
EDIT forgot the pic:
very cool!
I didn’t realize we had official sanction from Florian for the use of spacers. That’s great news, and eliminates a niggling concern I’ve had, because I don’t want to risk damaging my Schlumpf hub.
Can you paste in or link to Florian’s comments on this?
Good call, they look nice and with some blue loctite, will do nicely!
The Shimano “SM-MA F180 P/S” retrofits most 160mm brakes to our 180mm rotors!
He gave the “ok” to Jogi in person, and was vague in emails, so I have nothing in writing specifically giving “permission”. I also don’t wish to copy any personal/professional emails on a public forum. I hope Florian volunteers a statement to that effect at some point though. Jogi has been using a spacer on the right side for over a year without a single hub issue.
