Thieves would be really dissapointed if they stole my credit card number HAHA
Have you found much that doesn’t work with your system? I am thinking of using a Hope brake. Only possible issue would be clearance (spoke and crank) right?
That’s what we need to know now; which calipers work best with your system? I am thinking about some Shimano XTR M975’s, or maybe something else, depends on what I can find for a good deal.
Also, is the mount an international standard post mount?
Hydraulic Caliper for system
I have an Avid Juicy5 which works great, There’s always angle variables with the handle clamp. I’ve ridden sinisterjay’s with a Juicy7 which is even nicer smoother pull. Really depends on your personal budget. I’ll say this you don’t need to spend alot to get the benefits of the brake.
A Juicy3 you should be able to find for $50-$75. Mechanical is certainly an option too. There are so many choices, we couldn’t possibly test them all, just to find out they all work great:)
FYI, Mountainuni Rotor is 180mm, if the dropdowns ask you to choose, then it likely comes with a rotor that you might be paying for and don’t need. Try and find a front brake b*** set up, Some come with a six bolt rotor, some don’t.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR276C01-Avid+Juicy+3+Hydraulic+Disc+Brakes+Oe.aspx
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BR267C04-Hayes+Stroker+Ryde+Disc+Brake+Oe.aspx
Actually, mine are Avid Elixir CR’s. They’ve got TONS of modulation and stopping power. (I use them on my DH b*ke too.)
here’s a dirty picture!
Someone should start to compile a list of disc calipers that work well with the MU system AND unicycling.
So far:
Avid Juicy and Elixer (sinisterjay, does yours have a carbon fiber lever?)
Shimano SLX
I have a Formula Ono K24 that I plan to use when I get my Triton frame.
Anyone else?
No, I’ve got the aluminum levers on mine. the CF lever was an upgrade on the 2010 model iirc.
I tried Avid BB5/BB7’s, and they didn’t work. The piston is on a screw drive and it ends up rubbing the spokes. It’s very close, so it may work on one uni (barely), but not another.
I found an old caliper with no name on it that I was able to file down about 5mm’s of material from the piston side without sacrificing any strength. The cable brake is nice, but it’s hard to find one that will give you enough space.
I’ve been using danscomp since at least 2000, and theyre one of the two best bmx shops in the us. Sorry to hear about your problem, seems u got phished by someone.
In the US they’re great, ppl on the phone are very helpful and they’ve built me some really nice wheels. I usually get most of my bike parts and all my pedals from them.
If you are placing an international order, id shoot them a message first.
then I am sorry, may be we were both victims:(
I think I’ll use my 500th post to remind folks that despite not having a production bolt on caliper mount, MountainUni.com still has steel mounts that may be welded to conventional steel unicycle frames. 5 out of the 6 prototype uni’s have featured such mounts, and the Triton demonstrates, a weld on mount werx gud!
The bolt on is still the best solution to retrofit aluminum uni’s without a stock mount. The first bolt on should fit both KH & Nimbus, and we’ll see about Coker… Then maybe a version for Hunter and older Tritons if there is any demand. We should come up with a bolt on caliper mount for Coker, since we have a handful of 150mm square taper Sinz cranks! Also, the limited sizes in Sinz ISIS cranks are 155mm+, while Sinz square tapers range from 125mm+! (We did buy up a bunch of smaller size ISIS, 135, 140, 145mm in a very limited / while supplies last scenario. We are working on a larger selection of crank sizes in the future.)
As far as calipers that work with the MountainUni.com system, there are lots of low profile brakes out there. The Avid Juicy 3, 5, Elixir, and Shimano hydraulics seem to be fine, I assume Hopes will work also, but that’s an expensive experiment. (The 4 piston Hope is a damn sexy brake! I’d love to see the photos of one on a uni!) The mechanical calipers seem to be difficult to find low profile. Jtrops has been experimenting and has found a generic mechanical caliper that fits the system, and he is also utilizing a shift lever for a drag disk brake! Jtrops suggests that the avid mechanical bb5/7 don’t have the clearance to work with the MountainUni.com system.
The original bolt on caliper mount was the IS Post style mount like 74mm, but we have bigger plans and intend to create a bolt on that uses the 52mm IS tab mount. The tab mount is what the weld on mounts are on our prototypes and on the Tritons. The rotors are 180mm, but the caliper stand off (adapter) should be for 160mm rotors because we mount the tabs higher. I believe that is consistent on the Tritons as well. Buying a brake with a 180mm rotor will come with the incorrect stand off (adapter), get a caliper meant for a 160mm rotor, and get the brakes without the rotor if you can to save $. I think Cambriabike.com and bikeman.com have such kits in the US.
MountainUni.com has been developing this system in part on this forum and we have relied on feedback for direction. The feedback we will be receiving from all the new users will continue to shape the products and recommendations regarding consistent caliper types that function with the disk brake system. Thank you all for your interest, encouragement, patience, feedback, and purchase of the MountainUni.com Disk Brake System!
Isn’t the IS 51mm? I bought a Formula Oro K24 caliper that is meant for a 180mm rotor, I am going to buy the adapter for a 160mm rotor but their “IS” states 51mm… thoughts?
I thought it was 51 or 53, but my buddy claimed it was 52… I had no wifi and rounded to 52. The weld on mount dimension bolt pattern is correct though!
It’s simple to add mounts during the manufacturing of frames, but without making wider frames to accommodate wider hubs with disk, there was no point in adding tabs to conventional frames until now.
We overbuilt the prototype, no flex on the caliper mount! I like the IS tabs better for flexibility with rotor sizes and spacing. the bolt on prototype was post style to eliminate the stand-off adapter.
If you held a bar as it would lay flat on a table (broad side facing up) and tried bending it, you would be more likely to get flex than if you turned it on it’s side, (broad side facing forward). Even a little material positioned in the right manner can effectively accomplish the task. making brand specific mounts would cause larger overhead, more sku’s, more stuff to order and manage and machine and more minimums ordered. If the bolt on’s rested against the frame, and the frame spec changes, then we’ll have year specific models too! (no thanx!) we’re working on something more universal and coming very soon!
I think we’re at the beginning of the bell curve in this sport. The beauty of this sport is it’s simplicity, witch should not be viewed as a limitation or constraint, but something that should drive its purity and focus the imagination. It’s exciting.
well if there is no flex what so ever, then the only purpose I could see to having the mount snug against the frame would be to eliminate stress on the front bolt. I’m not sure what the stress levels are like in a unicycle though, so i would imagine that it is not needed.
one simple alternative would be to have a horizontal screw that goes through the upper part of the mount, with a free spinning concave end on it with a thin piece of rubber. that way you could dial it in to any frame size. again, not sure if the torque involved in a uni brake system is anywhere large enough to justify that, but stripping the 5mm screw tap on your bearing cap would kinda suck. I guess if you were braking hard enough to stress that, you’d probably be swiftly ejected from your uni
I agree on the IS vs post mount by the way. I’ve had nothing but problems with avid’s post mount adjustment system. my old IS marta SL’s snapped into place and never needed adjustments, regardless of how hard I was on them
Dual hole cranks?
I’ve now got a Schlumpf on the way. I’m putting it in my KH29, the uni I’d been planning on getting a disc brake for. Part of my decision to put the gear on this uni is the versatility a geared 29 will give me - with just a change of the tire and crank length, I can easily switch between road and muni modes. Frequent changing of cranks on a Schlumpf is probably not a good idea, so I anticipate taking advantage of my dual hole KH Moments waaaay more than I ever have before.
So my question is whether there is a possiblity for dual hole cranks with the Mountainuni brake system. I’m wondering if I could drill a pair of Sinz 155mm cranks and install pedal thread inserts at ~125mm. Would that work with these cranks - are they straight and flat enough? If so, this could also mitigate the problem of shorter cranks not being available.
I have been running dual hole Sinz 150/125’s for a year no prob. Jogi had a failure after a bunch of hoppin & droppin and they quit with stress fracture at 125 hole while rolling a staircase. Jogi has run single hole Sinz sinceon bs schlumpf with a 6 mm spacer no issue. No big rolls & drops & dual holes are fine. I’m gonna get the QR MKS Pedals next!
Between Triton and forum members, we have sold out of rotors and we expect a bunch more in the next couple weeks! Thanks all for the encouragement and purchases!