Today Santa came early for me. My new KH24 Freeride was delivered by a man who’s arms nearly got ripped from his sockets! So I thought I’d give some first impressions: First off it’s very easy on the eye in a pretty yet sturdy sort of way. I was impressed with the bearing housings too. They’re really solid and there are no bits of screw protruding anywhere as the srewheads sit in little recesses. The hub is MASSIVE, I’m sure it’s nearly the diameter of a rolling pin. The tyre is rather marvellous too; I was doing some natural trials on some rocks and even covered in mud it still stuck to the rocks like nobodies business. I’ve not really experimented with the rail adaptor yet. Although I had to fiddle about with it a bit after the nose of the saddle got knocked downwards when I did a drop not more than 4 ft, so anyone buying one, check the tightness of the saddle before you do drops.
I also got some of the new kh pulse gloves and they seem pretty funky. Comfortable, but you’ve still got loads of support and movement. I went for the medium size as I wasn’t really sure how hands are measured, and they seem fine. A little tight, but they’ll stretch.
My one concern is the number of Kris Holm signatures I now display when I’m riding: One on each leg, two on the rim, two on the frame, two on the seatpost, one on the saddle, one on each crank, one on the hub and two on each hand…that’s 14 altogether!!! Ah well, I suppose if I’m going to adorn my self with someone’s name…repeatedly. then Kris Holm’s is better than most others.
All in all it’s a wonderful machine and I’d reccomend it to anyone. I’ll have some photos posted soon of it nice and muddy.
It turns out I’ve actually broken it already. The drop I was talking about bent the rails on the saddle. Buggersticks!
I was wondering if anyone else who’s got the rail adaptor has also bent the rails. I fooked up the drop a little when I did it, the tyre landed in a rut so I couldn’t roll out and my weight went forward on the saddle, thus bending the rails.
It seems a little odd that a uni so strong everywhere else has this one weak point where a lot of stress is put on. Using buttress welds and not particularly great steel doesn’t seem the best plan really. Perhaps if there were extra diagonal struts between the seat base and the rails, that grade of steel would have sufficed but as t is it leaves a little to be desired. So tomorrow morning I’ll be on the phone to unicycle.uk.com to see about a replacement. Although I’m not too sure I’ll bother with another rail adaptor, I might just go for the regular attachment. I’m going to be converting my lovely, shiny new Muni to an airseat anyway so being able to adjust the tilt wont be massive bonus.
RIght now I really need to get some sleep after doing so much riding, I’m feeling a little sore… even after damaging the rails after an hour or two of riding I’d still recommend this uni to anyone as it is absolutely luvverly.
You are correct - skip it.
I am not sure why the rail adapter is standard on the entire line anyway. I find very little benefit - especially for trials and street.
Also, I have had the bad experience of sticking my middle finger through the rail during a seat out hop. Ouchy.
Further, since I am tall and somewhat heavy - the rail adapter could not always keep itś pitch.
I bet if you lose that particular part, you will be happier.
MrBoogiejuice, do the Pulse gloves have a rigid wrist support like Harbingers or do they just have I lot of padding near the wrist? I’m interested in buying a pair, if they give enough protection.
I have a rail adapter. It’s one of the bedford/SHoward/kinport ones. It hasn’t broken. It’s set up on a CF seat and a thomson post so nothing around it is absorbing anything for it. It’s odd that yours broke on a standard KH saddle. The flex helps keep things from breaking. But theres no way the rail should ever bend. The adapter should fail by breaking at one of the 4 welds if anything.
I use mine for trials and really like it. It makes the seat a TON more comfortable. It forces you to grip the seat farther back for seat out hops, which is a good habit. It allows you to run the seat lower for street because the handle can be in the same place with the seat lower. Also, the parts are generally stronger.
Yeah, they have a splint on the back of the wrist, they give more than enough support. I’d recommend you get a pair, they’re wicked.
Obie: I’d have thought the welds would be the butt weld that went too…but no. I fixed it though, stuck it in a vice and gave it some elbow grease and all is now well. I’ve been liking the tilty backness of the seat for the reasons you gave…paricularly the xtra height on the handle. I think I’m going to stick the seat off my KH with the rails onto my trials when I go out doing street/trials stuff.
Correct. However, I grip the seat farther back - while not being FORCED to do it. Also, Ryan Atkins grips the seat at the back in U2, and he was running NO air and NO adapter. Anyone can grip the seat at the back - without the threat of losing the end of a finger.
I never thought of that.
Stronger than the original poster`s? Yes.
However, I still had trouble maintaining the angle no matter how much I tightened it because I am heavy.
Hmmm…that’s strange. How heavy are you? I’m 235 and I go pretty big. Mine stays put. What post do you have? If you have a single bolted one, that is likely your problem. Either get a double bolt one or one of the ones with teeth in the adjustments. Can’t adjust those as much, but it should stay put. The 2 bolt ones are optimal.
I DO have the single bolted one - was not aware that there are others.
Still, thanks (really) but no thanks. I had the ability to change the angle long enough to determine that I simply prefer the default angle.
