That right there is what i am talking about you cant have more than 1\8 inch of threads for the tool to grip.
Why do you need a tool to pull pinch bolt cranks off? If you loosen the pinch bolt it should slide off easily by hand.
yeah the cranks I had on an old school KH hub would slide off easily with one finger’s pressure when properly loosened, never used an extractor on them even when they were brand new.
my old dx cranks would never come off without the tool.
Maybe there was too much paint in the crank splines.
ALL pinch bolt cranks should come off easily by hand.
I’ve dealt with countless different ones of bikes, and have never needed a crank extractor for them.
@ TheJDW
Wow you moved to a 19" eh? I thought you loved 24" trials:p
Sorry i wasnt helpful,
Isaac
Okay I belive I will be able to use an angle grinder at school, (instead of eating much needed food). I just happened to notice that the axel is pretty long compaired to an isis hub and I need to get a rough idea of how short I can get the nub. So many milimeters of metal do you guys think I should remove?
Put spacers between the crank and the bearing.
If you put more spacers, you can grind the nub down more.
Ah I don’t have any more spacers.
usually the cut off end of your seatpost will be the right diametere, cut it in to thin rings for spacers. Do check this before you start grinding stuff though.
wouldn’t that not hold or break off and damge other components? Issn’t there a big disadvantage to having huge q fractor in a trials uni?
Larger q-factor, the larger the width of your stance will be, which will give you more control, and be like 1% harder to spin compared to straight cranks.
oh right, will it make roll hops harder though?
Its never affected me.
I used to go from the 125 DX cranks(straight), to 145 Qu-ax cranks(angled) and the only reason the Qu-Ax felt weird cause the seat was super low, and I ride with a high seat.
Once I put the seat to my height, and got on it, it felt fine.
I also ride on a profile setup about 1/3rd of the time, which already has a high seat, so switching from my DX, to that feels fine, as with going back to my KH, or from the KH to another uni.
All 4 of the unis, have 4 different q-factors, and I can hop up 4 stairs with all of them. Im pushing for 5. =p
A couple spacers won’t even be noticeable.
Go to a bike shop, ask if they have any Profile crank spacers, they should be the same size I believe.
I have 22mm Primo ones that would sit really loose on the spindle, so you can’t use those.
Spacers usually come with bottom bracket kits for bikes, so if your bike shop has ever ordered and installed a BMX bottom bracket, then they should have tons left over. If they say no, they’re just lazy and you shouldn’t ever buy parts from that shop, or they’re being honest and one of the employees has been taking them home to play with?
Profile “Hardware” kit pictured below.
Thats a good idea, I think i’ll do that. But since I’ve just done this I think its worth seeing what you guys think;
My intial plan was the cut away down to the red line as the weld start at the grey line. Although with Borg’s idea I could insdead mabey cut down to just befor the grey line.
Do you have the 2004 KH replacement crank bolts to use?
A bike shop 99% chance WON’T have those bolts, so you probably have to order them from UDC… I phoned every single bike shop and went to nearly half of them, within my city and surrounding cities, one shop had ONE similar bolt… and the threads were different.
Definitely go to a good bike shop and check for those spacers, better yet, bring one of yours with you to make sure they’re similar sizes.
Getting rid of the nub just gets rid of the hard angled edge that rips your ankles open, with the new bolt, it sticks out nearly as much, but it’s rounded, thus not catching, but allowing anything that hits it to slide over it instead.
Also, when you do grind it down… thread the bolt in till it contacts the crank, don’t tighten it down, check that it’s even all the way around, if it’s not, file down the high spots. Make sure you don’t torque down the bolt onto an uneven surface, the bolt can and will break if the surface on the crank is too uneven
Those are fine, proceed. Says right in the description they’re 2004 KH bolts.