Meanwhile the Dominator 26+ is released...

While we were all ogling the Hatchet and 32 and 27.5 oracles, Nimbus released a house brand fat rim.

Why is this a big deal? It’s 36 hole and a good width (80mm).

Two questions (hopefully Roger is reading this).

How does it do tubeless? Good bead shelf? Tight fit?

And why is it not on the new Hatchet?

O_O that looks awesome! The 26+ rim we’ve all been waiting for.

Product Description needs some updating though…

It seems the specs changed after the ad was written. This rim is used on the Nimbus 26" Hatchet Mountain Unicycle?

I’m working on building a wheel with this rim because I’m having trouble finding a 36 hole fat rim.

It would be really nice if they would post the spoke hole offset so we could actually buy spokes for this rim… :thinking:

Dude, the ERD is 538…


Hmm. It seems like either the specs are just wrong, or there is another attempt to redefine terms that have become misunderstood.

According to the specs this rim is both “single wall,” and “Box Section.” The term double wall was adopted to describe box section rims, and single wall rims can’t be box section. You could say that they are “channel section,” but that term would be new, and apparently nobody wants new terms.

Still, it is really cool that they are making it. The price seems very good as well. If I ever get around to building a fat uni I can’t see why this wouldn’t be my go to rim.


FYI, spoke hole offset on this rim is approximately 22mm. You need that measurement to calculate spoke length, and UDC doesn’t know what it is.

This rim fills a niche in the market and seems to be on par with the rest of the fat rims out there. A 36h rim in 80mm width can work with many many fat wheel setups.


I finally got my Nimbus Dominator 26" fat rim built up. Thanks to Killian for helping build the wheel and putting up with my orange spoke fiasco. :roll_eyes:
I used a Surly Bud because it’s the best darn 4.8 unicycle tire there is. However it’s not the best for tubeless.
For the first try I set everything up split tube and the Bud’s bead was weeping more than normal.
So for the next try I cut up an old 36" tube into two 1/4" strips. I ran one layer of orange 3M tape for the cutouts then one layer of Tyvek tape to cover the sticky side. Surly’s rim strip is out of stock but the orange tape looks pretty good. Then to adhere the rubber I put a wrap of double sided scotch tape on both bead shelves, and applied the 1/4" rubber strips. I added the spit tube and sealant and it aired up very easy. The only difference is this time I had zero leaks. The next morning I had one little drip but the strips seemed to have worked.
I took it out this morning with Killian and it rocks! It rolls over everything, has very little autosteer and just makes smile. Anyone who’s interested in a 4.8 tire, or someone who has struggled with other fat 4.8+ tires(2XL). You need give the Bud a try. I’ll probably be selling my 29+ Rabbit Hole/Knard wheelset… :sunglasses:

That looks killer! Congrats on getting the tubeless setup figured out and enjoy riding that baby.

For anybody getting ideas, I’d strongly advise against colored spokes.

Sure they look nice, but your wheel builder will need a six pack or a fifth when you go pick it up.


Coors Light? :smiley:

Thanks Eddie!

Better make it Crown.

I’m a noob at wheel building, but why do coloured spokes make it worse?

They are powder coated, so they are thicker than normal spokes. They’ll fit through the spoke holes of the hub flanges, but when you try to bend it to lace the spoke, it binds up, and eventually scratches off the powder coat at the elbow.

Not impossible to do, but it’s easier to just use SS or black.

And I forgot to second Fugsworth’s suggestion on the Surly Bud. I have no idea why everyone is on a Lou, but the Bud is amazing.

It is a pain when they fit the hub so tight, but if you lace the whole hub at once you can build without having to bend any of the spokes. You do have to be careful not to scratch the paint off when they go through the holes, but once that part’s done it’s smooth sailing. It also laces up much quicker, about 10 minutes to lace 36 spokes.

Thanks for the tip. I don’t ever build enough wheels to get very fast at it so I’ll need to give that a try sometime.

Next time you build shoot me a PM and I’ll walk you through it. It’s not difficult once you understand the basics. And at this point I don’t think there’s any question about your understanding of the basics.

I used nano color coated spokes, the color layer is not thicker as if they were anodized and also loks as if they were anodized.
nano color coating