Right, I´m in a rush, and basically I need to know how to maintain 24 buttfely pedals. I´d rather know exactly how to do it before attempting it and messing it up.
So if there´s a bit of play in these pedals, what exactly must I do to rid it of play? I know how to maintain unsealed pedals very well, but sealed pedals are something I´ve never been keen on. Please don´t tell me to just ride it until it gets really bad, as I´d rather get it over and done with now.
I think I know how to do it, but I just want other people´s instructions to clarify if i know what to do.
Aside from that, my koxx cranks need their pedal-lockrings retightened properly and tight. So for both cranks, what way do I tighten each part of the lockring etc.? I might just do a complete overhaul of the lockrings, so what tools do you suggest I use for this job and would you recommend using some red Loctite (studlock) for when I come to retightening?
Thanks, now i´ve got a plane to catch back to Heathrow,
I don’t know much about the pedals (although I’m very interested in knowing this aswell), but I do know a fair amount about the cranks. I’m assuming you are talking about the steel insert that goes into the aluminum crank, if you have 140 mm cranks then what I say will be wrong, otherwise I know whats going on.
If your insert becomes loose the only thing you can do is to replace the pedal washer and tighten it back up. I say replace the washer because often the washer will become mangled in process of replacing pedals, so its a good idea to replace it each time you put a new pair of pedals on to keep things tight. Unfortunatly though the pedal inserts are a far from perfect component on cranks. Once they become loose all you can do is slow down the process in them loosening up even more. The second they start moving around you have passed the rubicon as they say and there is no actual fix that will bring them back to new again.
It is possible that there is some kind of adjustment system in the non washer type 140mm cranks but AFAIK there is no such thing, just an insert that is single piece and doesn’t require a washer.
This is a problem that all aluminum cranks will face as long as there is an insert and unfortunatly if there is no insert then it is likely that you will strip the threads.
I’ve got the 140mm cranks, with the 2 threaded steel rings inserting into the pedal thread. Basically, what the newer Koxx alu cranks have come with.
As for the pedals… anyone got any good idea about it? Its a Wellgo designed pedal, so possibly anyone using Gusset Slimjims or other Wellgo designed sealed pedals could offer some advice?
Hi,
I have broken 2 pairs of half-priced butterfly imitation, but from what i have seen, it is the same for the original ones.
Once it started playing, the life of the pedal was very short (like 3 minutes hopping) before the body of the pedal go off its “hub”. If you have got this play for a long time, this might be for an other reason.
For me, the reason was the weakness of the little bearing that maintains the pedal in one an only piece. When it breaks, the pedal get off : i had to
-remove the little balls of the bearing swimming in the grease,
-unscrew (tubular socket wrench 9) the bolt at the extremity of the hub
-remove all the remaining parts of the bearing
-put a new bearing and tighten the bolt
The day i did that, someone had given me the bearing so i don’t know the exact type.